Route to Merdven-Kayas 1B cat. dif.

The lower part of the "Assa" route goes along the left edge of an oblique ledge - a couloir, to the right of the "Bezzavetny" route, connecting with it in some places. In its middle part, it connects with the "Zлая" route (approximately two ropes).

Approach: from the camp of the Mountain School "Category of Difficulty", go towards the "Khergiani" rock and further beyond it to the entrance to the couloir. The approach takes 5 minutes.

"Assa" route on Merdven-Kayas 1B cat. dif.

"Assa" route on Merdven-Kayas 1B cat. dif.

Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1
• 50 m

The route starts to the right of the "Bezzavetny" route, which goes along the inner corner on the left ridge of the couloir, along a clearly pronounced bastion, the beginning is marked with the inscription "ASSA".

Up and to the right along simple rocks to a juniper tree. On it is a station.

• 20 m — II cat. dif.
• 30 m — I cat. dif.

R1–R2 25 m

From the station, go up and to the left, along simple rocks, approach the bastion to a juniper tree, the station is on it. 25 m — I cat. dif.

R2–R3 50 m

From the station, go up and to the right, along the inner corner, for about 20 meters, and then go up and to the left, to a pyramidal juniper, visible against the sky. The station is near it on piton hooks.

• 20 m — II cat. dif.
• 30 m — III cat. dif.

R3–R4 50 m

From the station, go along the slabs towards the inner corner, with a tree, and, exiting it onto a large ledge on the left, organize a station on a juniper. 40 m — I cat. dif.; 10 m — II cat. dif.

R4–R5 60 m

From the station, go to the right along ledges, with small sub-climbs, to the neck of the couloir, descending from the right, from the upper bastion of the mountain. Landmark — three juniper trees, upper-right: station. 60 m — I cat. dif.

R5–R6 50 m.

From the station, go along simple rocks of the couloir, sticking to its left side, near the rocks. Insurance is organized on a tree and further on a piton hook. Exit to the right onto a saddle. Here, the route line connects with the "Zлая" route. Point — a loop on a ledge of the saddle.

• 30 m — II cat. dif.
• 20 m — I cat. dif.

Note: In the upper part, there is a steep grassy slope. R6–R7 45 m.

From the station, go up and to the right along a clearly pronounced inner corner, until exiting it, organize a station on a juniper tree on the right. 45 m — II cat. dif.

R7–R8 40 m.

From the station, go up and to the right (3 m) and then up and to the left to the nearest juniper, on which a loop for insurance hangs. From it, up and to the left (8 m) there is a piton hook. Further along the wall and inner corner (15 m) exit onto a ledge. On the ledge, there is a point: two piton hooks are driven.

• 25 m — II cat. dif.
• 15 m — III cat. dif.

R8–R9 30 m.

From the point, go up and to the left to a piton hook (10 m), which is located to the left of the beginning of the "Zлая" chimney. From it, descend (3 m) and then go to the left, over the ridge, onto a ledge. Along it, traverse, to a tall deciduous tree growing in the chimney-couloir. On it is a station. 15 m — II cat. dif.; 15 m — I cat. dif.

Note: The traverse is psychologically difficult, technically simple.

R9–R10 30 m.

From the station, sticking to the left side, exit into the plateau along the couloir. 30 m — I cat. dif.

Recommended equipment:

Large loops — 5–6 pcs. Small friends — 6 pcs. Nuts — 6 pcs.

Note: It is recommended to go on the route with no more than 4 people; in case of a larger number of people, it is necessary to gather them all on R5, to avoid being hit by stones. The route is scenic, but due to the height difference and its length, it is psychologically more difficult than the "Surpriz" route and is recommended as a second route of category 1.

Source of the description: alpinist.biz