XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship Ice and Snow Climbing Category

REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi East 4918 m via the center of the North face (route by V. Grishchenko, 1982), category 5B, third ascent by the Ukrainian SSR team

Team Captain /M. M. Gorbenko/ Senior Coach /V. S. Sviridenko/

Tactical Actions of the Team.

I. Deviations from the Tactical Plan and Reasons for Deviations:

• On the first day, there were no deviations from the tactical plan;
• On the second day, there was a later arrival at the pre-summit ridge, reason: complex snow conditions in the upper part of the route;
• Reaching the summit of East Mizhirgi the next day after the bivouac (the plan was to bivouac beyond the summit) — reason: a gendarme on the ridge was mistaken for the summit, where previously ascended teams had left their summit notes.

2. Organization and Rotation of Ropes:

Ropes:

• Gorbenko–Staritskiy
• Moroz–Khitrikov
• Serpak–Leontiev

On the first day, the Gorbenko–Staritskiy rope worked. On the second day, the first 12 ropes were done by Moroz–Khitrikov, and the next 12 ropes were done by Serpak–Leontiev.

3. Rotation of Lead Climbers:

The first rope alternated leads, i.e., the first climber went 40 m ahead, then the second climber caught up and went another 40 m ahead, and so on. The second and third ropes (except for sections with fixed ropes) followed the same pattern.

4. Preliminary Section Preparation: not done.

5. Fixed Ropes:

• Bergschrund 8 m
• First rock band 40 m
• Crossing the "balalaika" grip 80 m
• Second rock band 40 m
• Third rock band 20 m

188 m

6. Movement and Rest Schedule:

August 13 2:00 — Departure on the route 2:00–12:00 — Work on the route until the control point 12:00–14:00 — Rest, tea preparation, snack 14:00–18:30 — Work on the route until the first bivouac. Bivouac on a snow-ice ridge.

August 14 8:00 — Start working on the route 8:00–19:30 — Work on the route until reaching the presumed summit (gendarme). Bivouac in a hollow on the ridge.

August 15

9:00 — Start working on the route. 9:10 — Reach the actual summit. 9:10–19:00 — Descent from the route to the plateau before the Sella pass. 19:00–22:00 — Approach to the "Austrian bivouacs".

7. Bivouac Organization:

• The first bivouac was on platforms carved into the snow-ice ridge, in a lying position.
• The second bivouac was in a hollow on the ridge, also in a lying position.

8. Safety Measures:

• Early departure on the route (lower risk of falling ice);
• Piton protection throughout the route;
• Fixed ropes on complex sections;
• High work tempo on the route;
• Bivouac on a snow-ice ridge "detached" from the main wall.

9. Falls, Injuries: none.

10. Problem-Solving:

The challenging task was overcoming the steep and extensive ice wall with a single bivouac.

II. Use of New Equipment and Non-Standard Technical Methods:

• Each team member had either a new ice axe (3 pieces) or an imported one (3 pieces), adapted for traversing steep ice terrain, as well as ice screws (4 pieces) or hammers (2 pieces).
• Crampons with "aggressive" front teeth were used by all team members.
• Boots were rigid and double-layered.

12. Team Actions in Adverse Weather:

The entire route was completed in good weather.

13. Communication with Observers:

Conducted via "Lastochka" radio station. Communication times:

• 9:45
• 12:45
• 15:45
• 18:45 (4:00 — additional on the first day)

Appendix 2

Protocol

of the debriefing on the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi East via the 5B category route through the center of the North face (V. Grishchenko's route, 1982) by the Ukrainian SSR team led by M. M. Gorbenko in the 1983 USSR Climbing Championship in the ice and snow climbing category on August 16, 1983, at the "Bezengi" alpine camp

Attendees:

Team Members:

• M. M. Gorbenko — captain
• V. A. Khitrikov — deputy captain
• A. A. Serpak
• P. I. Staritskiy
• V. G. Leontiev
• S. A. Moroz

Invited to the Debriefing:

Judging panel for the ice and snow climbing category of the USSR Championship, headed by the chief judge of the category, Honored Master of Sports K. B. Kletsko.

Chief Judge of the 1983 USSR Climbing Championship, L. V. Alexandrin.

Debriefing led by the senior coach of the Ukrainian SSR team, V. S. Sviridenko.

Sviridenko gives the floor to team captain M. M. Gorbenko.

Gorbenko: "From the moment the team was formed until the ascent, we conducted 3 training camps. The route was chosen as the most characteristic in this area for this class of ascents. For direct preparation for the ascent, the team arrived on August 10 for an overnight stay to inspect the wall and cache supplies. On August 11, the team left the 'Bezengi' alpine camp. August 12 — observation of the wall and studying the approach paths to the wall via the glacier. On August 12 at 23:00, the team departed for the ascent, and at 2:00 on August 13, we reached the bergschrund. The tactical plan included a bivouac at an altitude of 4000 m on the 'balalaika' grip."

Rope compositions: Gorbenko–Staritskiy, Moroz–Khitrikov, Serpak–Leontiev. On the first day, the Gorbenko–Staritskiy rope worked.

Gorbenko: "We reached the first control point by 12:00. We had to overcome a key section, so we took a 2-hour rest and had a hot meal. We passed the key section at a good pace using artificial climbing techniques. By 18:30, the first rope reached the planned bivouac site, and by 19:00, the entire team was together, with the bivouac established on the ice-snow ridge by 20:00. A total of 30 ropes were covered that day. The ropes worked autonomously. On August 14 at 8:00, we continued the ascent. The relatively late start was due to the need to work on rocky sections covered in ice. In the first half of the day, the Moroz–Khitrikov rope worked, followed by Serpak–Leontiev. We covered 24 ropes that day. By 19:00, we reached the ridge near the summit. All team members demonstrated excellent physical and technical preparation, as well as team cohesion."

Khitrikov: "There were some changes in the route conditions. The lower part had more ice, while the upper part had more snow. On the section where we unexpectedly met the Mai team, belaying was particularly challenging, and we had to dig through to the ice. I'm satisfied with the pace and team composition."

Serpak: "Working with Leontiev, he belayed correctly and reliably. Moroz and Khitrikov integrated well into the team. I want to note the complex snow conditions."

Staritskiy: "The preparation and training paid off in terms of technique, tactics, equipment selection, and the ascent itself. The ropes were evenly matched; any of us could have led. The bivouac site was completely safe. The team leader performed their role fully. Team dynamics were normal."

Moroz: "I want to highlight the thorough preparation for the Championship and the availability of route information. The 'school' had a significant impact on our route completion."

Leontiev: "I'm satisfied with the pace of our rope; the team leader's actions and instructions were correct."

Ruzhevskiy: "Question to Khitrikov: which route is more complex — yours or Grishchenko's?"

Khitrikov: "Grishchenko's route is technically more challenging and more logical, but my route is more psychologically demanding."

Ruzhevskiy: "Did you pass Pelevin's ice 'bivouac' section?"

Khitrikov: "No, our route was 30 meters to the right, but we didn't pass the section that Mai's team did."

Kurnayev (and Gorbenko): "You were at the 'grip' at 12:00 and reached the bivouac site at 19:00."

It turns out that, accounting for rest, it took 5 hours to overcome the 'grip'.

Gorbenko: "It took 3 hours to navigate the 'grip', which is a very complex section — 4 ropes of category 6 difficulty. The additional time was spent moving along the ridge and reaching the bivouac site."

Kurnayev: "Why did your team complete the upper part faster than Mai's?"

Gorbenko: "Most likely, physical preparation played a significant role."

Tur: "What caused the frequent gathering of 2–3 people on certain sections?"

Gorbenko: "People gathered in groups of 2–3 to pass pitons and organize belays for the second rope. There was no unnecessary crowding."

Tur: "How do you assess the route via the 'cascades'?"

Gorbenko: "The route is dangerous, with a slope of 70°. The upper part wasn't visible, but no particular difficulties were noticeable."

Kletsko: "Why were there zigzags in the ascent tracks?"

Gorbenko: "For safety reasons, we deviated left or right to avoid falling ice and snow, as well as potential participant falls."

Kletsko: "On the rock band above, the ascent trajectory differs from Grishchenko's route?"

Gorbenko: "This path variation was chosen for safety reasons."

Kletsko: "When were you at the actual summit?"

Gorbenko: "There were 2 control points. On August 14 at 8:00, we left a note at 19:00. On the second day, it was in the morning of August 15. All of these were very close together."

Sviridenko: "The ascent was completed without violations or incidents, fully in accordance with the rules and regulations of the Championship. I propose that the leadership and participation of the team members be acknowledged and that we prepare the protocol accordingly."

Leonov.