Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Northern Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge.
3. Peaks — Mayakovsky Peak (4208 m), Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), Partizan Peak (4390 m), Tuyuksu Spires (4218 m), Tuyuksu Peak (4218 m), route — traverse of 5 peaks.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A in winter
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 900 m.
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 95 m.
6. Pitons hammered:

Mayakovsky — Tuyuksu Needles 4B cat. sl. Traverse of four peaks

Description of the route. Approaches to the beginning of the ascent are described in the first section of routes to Mayakovsky Peak. The path starts to the left of a pronounced chimney, climbing to the right wall on medium rocks (piton belay). Behind the first wall there is a shelf, to the right there is a 3 m wall, followed by a triangular area and an approach to a 15–20 m wall (pitons belay). After it, there is a shelf with a control cairn and the third 10 m wall (pitons belay). Then traverse to the right along the shelf 9–10 m under the wall, exit to the recommended overnight spot. Here is the second control cairn. The fourth wall is 40 m long, the rocks are difficult (pitons belay), ends with a narrow shelf, behind it — the fifth wall of slabby structure (few ledges). Go to the shelf, traverse it to the left to a chimney 30–35 m high (difficult climbing, piton belay). At the end of the chimney — the third

Peak Mira (4140 m)

Ascent from Snezhnogo Pass — Cat. 1B

The rocky wall of Peak Mira closes the western cirque of the Levyy Aksay glacier. It is located in the southern part of the Kaskelensky spur, immediately after its first branching. To the east of the peak, there is an unnamed summit (approximately 4200 m). The northern side of the peak drops with a 600-meter wall to a small glacier of the same name, lying in the upper reaches of the western source of the Levyy Aksay; the southern side is rocky, dissected by steep couloirs descending to the Kaskelensky glacier. From the camp located in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Levyy Aksay glacier, exit in the direction of Snezhnogo Pass. The ascent goes along a snowy slope up to 450 m

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing area
2. Northern Tian-Shan, 7.2. 251 Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Maloalmatinskoye gorge, Tuyuk-Su.
3. Molodezhnaya peak 4147 m, via the "knife" on the left part of the North wall
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2B. First ascent.
5. Route character — ice and snow.
6. Elevation gain — 500 m.
7. Route length — 1000 m.
8. Used on the route: ice screws — 48, rock pitons and protection elements — 0, bolt pitons — 0.

Ascent via the North Edge from the Molodaya Gvardiya Glacier — cat. diff. 2B (4394 m) (fig. 10)

In the southern part of the Malo-Almatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Bolshaya Almatinka and Levy Talgar rivers, rises the majestic ice-snow pyramid of the Molodaya Gvardiya peak. Fig. 10 The most convenient approach paths to the route are via the Ozerny valley to the Gryazny Glacier. The initial bivouac is organized on the moraine of the glacier. Moving along the right side of the glacier and overcoming a series of crevasses, one exits onto a relatively gentle section at the foot of the northern slope. Continue the ascent up the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40° to the first sentinel on the northern edge of the peak massif. Cats are required on this section. Having overcome the bergschrund and a small icefall, approach the heavily destroyed rocks. Then proceed along the edge; the rocks are of medium difficulty, and exit onto the main North Edge, which approaches the first sentinel. There are cornices on the eastern side of the ridge (be cautious!). The sentinel, up to 20 m high, is bypassed on the right via cut steps in an ice gully, with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of 20–25 m. After ascending onto a very sharp ridge, within 15 minutes one can approach the second sentinel, which is up to 50 m high. After a terrace, there is an exit onto a small steep scree leading to rocks of medium difficulty and onto a steep snowfield ending in a small cornice. To exit onto the ridge via the cornice, a diagonal cutting is necessary.

Muryntau (4539 m)

1. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge.
2. Traverse Muryntau — Togu­zak from the Togu­zak glacier. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge, route category 2. (fig. 10). The summit of Muryntau is located in the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the upper reaches of the right branch of the Togu­zak glacier. To the north-west of it:

• Togu­zak pass
• Togu­zak peak

North­ern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via the right part of the West Ridge Category III difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via the right part of the West Ridge
3. Proposed: Category 3A

Northern Tien-Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via the right edge of the first Bastion 3B category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien-Shan, Zailiyskiy Alatau, Maloe Almatinskoe valley.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via the right part of the Western ridge
3. Proposed: 3B category of difficulty

North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrionok via the bastion of the North Face

4A cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Region, gorge, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye gorge.
2. Name of the peak, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrionok 3650 m, via the counterfort of the North Face.
3. Proposed: 4A cat. diff.
4. Nature of the route: rock

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-Western Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — First ascent via the center of the North-Eastern wall of peak 5241 m (Marshal Zhukov G.K. peak)
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference 1250 m
   • average steepness from bergschrund 76°
   • wall proper 80°
   • length of complex sections 980 m
5. Number of pitons driven: