Muryntau (4539 m)

1. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge.
2. Traverse Muryntau — Togu­zak from the Togu­zak glacier.

Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge, route category 2. (fig. 10).

The summit of Muryntau is located in the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the upper reaches of the right branch of the Togu­zak glacier.

To the north-west of it:

• Togu­zak pass
• Togu­zak peak

The eastern slope of the summit ridge descends into the firn basin of the right branch of the Bogaty­r glacier. The western slope is steeper, icy, and drops to the right branch of the Togu­zak glacier.

From the summit dome, a ridge of rocks stretches out, resembling a giant human nose in shape. Due to this resemblance, the first ascenders named this peak Muryntau (Nose-mountain).

The starting point of the route is from the bivouac on the right lateral moraine of the right branch of the Togu­zak glacier, then along the moraine and

Fig. 10 — along the Togu­zak glacier to the foot of the north-western ridge of Muryntau peak. 1.5–2 hours.

The rocky part of the ridge, along which the ascent is made, starts from the Togu­zak pass and ends 200–250 m from the summit dome of Muryntau. The ascent is in the right part of the ridge, where it is cut by a narrow gully. The first half-hundred meters of steep firn are climbed on crampons.