Peak Mira (4140 m)

Ascent from Snezhnogo Pass — Cat. 1B

The rocky wall of Peak Mira closes the western cirque of the Levyy Aksay glacier. It is located in the southern part of the Kaskelensky spur, immediately after its first branching.

To the east of the peak, there is an unnamed summit (approximately 4200 m).

The northern side of the peak drops with a 600-meter wall to a small glacier of the same name, lying in the upper reaches of the western source of the Levyy Aksay; the southern side is rocky, dissected by steep couloirs descending to the Kaskelensky glacier.

From the camp located in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Levyy Aksay glacier, exit in the direction of Snezhnogo Pass. The ascent goes along a snowy slope up to 450 m long with a steepness of 45–50°. At the beginning of the season, if there is an avalanche danger, one should abandon the shorter path and make the ascent significantly to the left. The route goes along avalanche debris, then along a slope with a steepness of up to 45° for 100 m, in the direction of a rocky ridge. Between the avalanche debris and the snowy slope, a marginal crevasse is overcome.

The ascent leads to a rocky wall. Staying close to its foot, move in a southern direction with piton belay. After about an hour, Snezhnogo Pass is reached, which connects:

• the eastern source of the Levyy Aksay glacier,
• the right branch of the Kaskelensky glacier.

The height of the pass is 3900 m.

When moving along the ridge, after 30–40 minutes, there is a conical elevation (3970 m). From it, the surrounding area is clearly visible. The first ascenders named this elevation Peak Ostry. From the initial bivouac to the summit, it takes 3–4 hours of walking.

The route for a separate ascent to Peak Ostry is Cat. 1B. To the north, approximately a kilometer from it, is the summit named after V. Gorbunov (4200 m), from which the Kaskelensky spur branches out.

The route continues by traversing the southwestern slope of this summit in the direction of a well-defined saddle at the foot of the eastern ridge of Peak Mira. The further path goes along this ridge to the summit.

The southwestern slope of this summit has a steepness of no more than 45°, with easy rocky sections and talus, heavily snow-covered at the beginning of the season. This section is overcome in 40–45 minutes. The exit to the ridge, which steeply rises above the saddle, is blocked by a 10-meter wall. Initially, it is traversed at the foot (4–5 m) in a western direction to a small cleft and through it to a platform. The remaining part of the wall is passed over medium-height, heavily broken rocks, which stretch for 120–150 m and lead to a snowpatch.

The significant steepness of the snowpatch, its length, and the depth of the fall, as well as the unreliable belay through an ice axe, require maximum attention from the climbers when moving in rope teams. By the end of the season, ice exposures are possible here, and then piton belay is organized (2–3 pitons).

The snowpatch leads to a rocky wall, which is bypassed along a narrow ledge, to a place where the nature of the rocks facilitates the ascent. Above the wall are slabs, which are overcome with piton belay.

The route continues along the summit ridge (about 200 m). Then come broken rocks with three small gendarmes; there are drops. To the north, the ridge drops with a wall with cornices. One should move, staying on the southern side.

Overcoming the ridge takes up to two hours.

Descent is by the ascent route.

It should be noted that:

• At the beginning of the season and after heavy snowfalls, the route is avalanche-prone
• Ascent on it is not recommended.

The first ascent of Peak Mira was made on May 30, 1954, by a group of Almaty climbers consisting of:

• Ya. Markushin
• L. Musaev
• Yu. Pilyagin
• O. Shkuratov led by M. Grudzinsky.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is no more than 6–8 people.
2. Initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Levyy Aksay glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) rock pitons — 4; c) expendable cordelette — 10 m; d) hammers — 2.