North­ern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau

Peak Oktyabrenok

via the right part of the West Ridge

Category III difficulty

Ascent Passport

1. Region, valley, section number according to the classification table of 20__ year — Northern Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloye Almatinskoye valley.
2. Name of the summit, its height, name of the route: Peak Oktyabrenok 3650 m, via the right part of the West Ridge
3. Proposed: Category 3A
4. Character of the route: rock
5. Height difference of the route: 360 m

Route length: 500 m. Length of sections: Category V — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 70°; entire route — 45°

6. Pitons left on the route:

total 4; including bolted — 0

7. Team's travel hours: 6 hours
8. Leader: Aleksey Raspopov, Master of Sports

Participants: — ( — )

9. Coach: Aleksey Raspopov
10. Exit to the route from the base camp: —

Route started:

• Ascent to the summit:
• Return to the base camp:
• Descent from the summit: via the Category 1B route to the Oktyabrenok pass

11. Organization: expedition club Khan-Tengri

12. Responsible for the report K. Belotserkovskiy

Email and phone k.be­lot­ser­kov­skiy@gmail.com, +7 7017361887

Map-diagram of the area

General photo of the wall

Diagram of the route

Description

R0–R1

Start by climbing the wall-shelves towards the ridge and then up along it to a convenient shelf. Station on a large separate lying stone.

R1–R2

From the station:

• Left — up towards the inner corner.
• Exit the corner onto a shelf, move left along it to the next inner corner.
• Up the corner to a shelf, where the station is located.

R2–R3

From the shelf, climb up a wide chimney. Then climb the wall to reach the ridge. Station on a convenient shelf on a narrow part of the ridge.

R3–R4

• Move along the ridge until reaching the scree (for a prepared duo, traversing the ridge takes 20 minutes)
• Climb up the scree to the pass

From the pass, ascend to the summit tower, bypassing it on the right. Descend via the couloir to the road leading to Mynzhylky.