Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — South-Western Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — First ascent via the center of the North-Eastern wall of peak 5241 m (Marshal Zhukov G.K. peak)
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference 1250 m
   • average steepness from bergschrund 76°
   • wall proper 80°
   • length of complex sections 980 m
5. Number of pitons driven:
   • rock pitons 323 pcs.
   • ice pitons 25 pcs.
   • bolt pitons 8 pcs.
6. Number of climbing hours 60
7. Number of bivouacs 6 (3 sitting, 3 semi-reclining)
8. Team: The ascent was made by a combined team of the Sports Committee under the Council of Ministers of the Tajik SSR.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification:
   • Yaroslavtsev Vladimir Fedorovich — Master of Sports, team leader
   • Kapitanov Oleg Viktorovich — Master of Sports, deputy leader
   • Bezverkhov Sergey Nikolaevich — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
   • Grushevsky Valery Grigorievich — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
   • Skrigtil Anatoly Mikhailovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
   • Team coach — Sogrin Sergey Nikolaevich — Master of Sports of the USSR
10. Ascent made in the period:
    • July 11, 1975 — departure from the base camp for processing
    • July 17, 1975 — departure on the route from the observation camp
    • July 23, 1975 — descent from the summit to the moraine

Brief Geographical Description of the Area and Climbing Conditions

The Rushan Range is the northern boundary of the South-Western Pamir. It has a latitudinal direction and is located between the Bartang and Gunt river basins. This intermediate position of the Rushan Range leaves its mark on the natural conditions of the area, which is influenced by both the South-Western Pamir and the Central Pamir.

Geologically, the Rushan Range is part of the young folded structures of the South-Western Pamir, resulting in a sharply dissected relief with deep gorges and pointed peaks. Most peaks and the highest parts of the ridges are composed of very hard, coarse-grained granites, usually light in color.

Black, highly unstable, and intensely schistose rocks are also widespread, posing certain difficulties during ascents.

Limestones have limited distribution, often being fairly soft, fractured rocks of gray or rusty color. Other rocks found in the area are of limited distribution and are not of interest from an alpinism perspective.

The average height of the Rushan Range exceeds 5000 m, with its highest point, Patkhор peak, reaching 6083 m.

The Rushan Range has an asymmetric profile:

• The southern slopes and spurs are shorter, with the upper reaches of valleys and glaciers rising high towards the range. Therefore, rivers flowing from the Rushan Range into the Gunt have a steep drop and rapid current.
• The northern slopes of the Rushan Range drop steeply into valleys, lying deep in the northern spurs of the range. The river current here is relatively calm in wide valleys.
• The slopes above the valleys are steep, transitioning into dissected rock walls in the upper part. The relative height of surrounding ridges and peaks above the valley reaches 1.5–2 km.

The name "Rushan" means "light, beautiful place." To a large extent, this name is justified by the presence of a large number of sunny days per year and low cloudiness. However, compared to other areas of the South-Western Pamir, the influence of the Central Pamir is felt, and overcast days are not rare, even in summer.

Climatic features of the southern latitudes and the Pamir plateau have left their mark on the character of glaciation and relief of the Rushan Range. Strong solar radiation combined with steep slopes has created conditions where snow-ice mass deposits on the slopes of the ridges are insignificant compared to the Central Pamir.

In mid-July, ice becomes exposed on the slopes.

In the upper reaches of valleys under the steep slopes of the ridges, snow-ice masses accumulate, forming a large number of separate, dissected, short glaciers.

Vegetation and wildlife are very scarce. In the valleys along the rivers:

• grass grows;
• small bushes;
• birch groves are occasionally found.

History of Area Development

The Rushan Range has remained undeservedly a "blank spot" for climbers until recent times.

The first information about the high-mountain zone of the South-Western Pamir dates back to 1937, resulting from the work of the talented geologist S.I. Klunnikov. Having penetrated from the Gunt river valley into the central node of the Rushan Range, he was the first to discover and describe a peak rising above a powerful glacier, measuring 7130 m according to the researcher's calculations. Local residents called it "Patkhор," meaning "Thorn" in translation.

After the successful expeditions of the 1920s-1930s by the USSR Academy of Sciences to study the Central Pamir and unravel the Garmo node, S. Klunnikov's information about seven-thousanders in the South-Western Pamir generated great interest among climbers.

However, the war that began did not allow for the implementation of plans to study and develop the South-Western Pamir.

Only in 1946 did the All-Union Committee for Physical Culture and Sports organize an expedition, whose participants, led by E.M. Abalakov and E.A. Beletsky, reached the highest point of the Rushan Range — Patkhор peak — via the western ridge (5A category of difficulty) on August 14. In the same year, the true height of the peak was established — 6080 m.

After the 1946 ascent, only two expeditions visited the Rushan Range, repeating the ascent to Patkhор:

• The TurkVO expedition in 1956;
• The expedition of Tomsk climbers in 1967, who laid a new route to Patkhор (5B category of difficulty).

All expeditions began their journey from the south, from the Gunt, along the Patkhор river, following the path indicated by S. Klunnikov.

From the north, Patkhор peak is hidden in the depths of the Raumid-Dara and Gei-Dara gorges. It is not visible from the Bartang, and local residents are unaware of the existence of a peak called Patkhор.

The gorges and ravines of the Bartang long blocked the path to the Rushan Range from the north. A significant obstacle was the crossing of the mighty Bartang. Now, with the construction of a road along the Bartang to Si-Pondzh, the Raumid-Dara gorge has become practically accessible. From Rushan, it is 37 km by car to the village of Khidzhis, located at the mouth of the Raumid-Dara. Further along the valley, a good trail allows one to ascend to picturesque green meadows in 1–2 days, where the base camp is organized.

The expedition of the Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR set up its base camp at an altitude of 3500 m above the Bavraz summer pasture under the beautiful rocky peak 5151 m. The choice of the base camp location was determined by the main tasks of the expedition, which included:

• ascent to a nameless peak in the Tsakh-Dar gorge;
• traverse of peaks from Khobyust-Kukh to Patkhор peak (both ascents — participation in the USSR Championship by the team of the Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR);
• ascent to Patkhор peak from the north by the team of the "Varzob" alpine camp, which had declared this route in the high-altitude technical class in the USSR Championship.

Organizational and Tactical Plans for Team Preparation and Ascent

1. Preparatory Period Before Departure to the Mountains. Selection of Ascent Object and Reconnaissance.

As appealing as it might be to undertake another route on the beautiful Ushba or find another variant of ascent to Chapdara or Communism peak, the unknown always beckons more strongly. This eternal human striving, bringing joy and filling mountaineering with an attractive force, allows it to remain forever alive.

These thoughts likely occupied our minds when, after the successful participation of the team in the 1974 USSR Championship and the winning of silver medals, the core team chose the Rushan Range as the area for the upcoming ascents...

The idea of creating a combined team of the Republic emerged several years ago. However, there were difficulties related to the specifics of mountaineering development in the Republic and established traditions. The main task was to unite the scattered forces of climbers from various societies and cities. The Sports Committee of the Tajik SSR and the "Varzob" alpine camp became such a base. With the active support of the Sports Committee, a long-term plan for creating a combined team of the Republic was developed. According to this plan:

• special attention was paid to the preparation of young climbers for inclusion in the team;
• a significant portion was dedicated to year-round general physical training;
• special training for climbers was conducted.

The successes of Tajikistan's climbers were immediately apparent:

• Bronze medal at the 1971 USSR Championship;
• Silver medal in 1973;
• Second silver medal in 1974.

The combined team was replenished with young climbers as early as autumn 1974. To maintain sports form according to the plan, regular training was conducted at their own sections in Nurek and Dushanbe during the winter. Team coach Sogrin S.N., regularly visiting Nurek, could judge the degree of preparedness of both the Nurek and Dushanbe team members. In the spring, technical training on rocks and outings to the mountains for classes and ascents were conducted.

Having chosen the poorly studied Rushan Range as the area of activity for the combined teams of Tajikistan in 1975, we understood that only thorough preparation and detailed study of the area and its features could ensure the success of the expedition.

Due to the lack of any information about the area, as well as for the selection of the object and route, reconnaissance was planned from the air in the spring.

To obtain information about the area, all available literature was studied, and correspondence was established with the leader of the Tomsk expedition to Patkhор in 1967, G. Andreev, who kindly provided materials on the area.

A meeting between the team's coach, S. Sogrin, and the brothers G. and D. Romanov, Moscow "Lokomotiv" tourists who crossed the Rushan Range in the Patkhор area, proved very useful for preparing the expedition, selecting objects, and clarifying organizational plans. Their advice made significant changes to the plans.

It was decided that the main path of the expedition would follow a fundamentally new route from the north, not from the south along the Patkhор river, as previous expeditions had done.

Having planned the reconnaissance of the Rushan Range by helicopter in the spring, everyone eagerly awaited its implementation, but weather conditions and the busy schedule of the aviation unit continually postponed the departure. When the team's impatience reached its limit, and the deadlines had expired, weather forecasters and helicopter pilots gave the "go-ahead" for the flight. The reconnaissance set broad tasks:

• study of approach paths;
• presence of settlements;
• height of glaciers;
• character of valleys;
• clarification of the area's orography;
• mountaineering possibilities of the area;
• selection of a base camp location;
• possibility of helicopter landing;
• and, most importantly, selection of ascent objects and photo shooting.

Already upon approaching the Rushan Range from the north, the highest point — Patkhор peak — was clearly distinguished, and to the right of it, several kilometers away, an unusual peak in the form of a giant crystal with an almost sheer kilometer-high eastern wall was visible. The peak immediately attracted attention and was photographed. Upon further reconnaissance, it turned out that there was no better object in the technical class in this area. Incidentally, it also proved to be the most beautiful peak, resembling a druse. Its height was determined to be 5387 m according to the map. However, during the expedition's work, upon reconnaissance and examination from the ground, a correction was made — the peak's height was 5241 m, and the wall was oriented to the northeast.

2. Training Cycle in the Mountains.

The training cycle in the mountains was divided into two stages.

Stage I involved active acclimatization and joint technical training with the entire team. For this task, the instructional staff worked during the first shift at the "Varzob" alpine camp, while the other participants stayed in the camp. Technical training was conducted on high-difficulty educational rocks. The following were practiced:

• system of pulling rucksacks;
• organization of bivouacs on overhangs;
• overcoming complex relief through free climbing and using artificial support points.

The first stage of preparation concluded with an ascent by the entire team to the western wall of the Varzobskaya pila via a 4A category route.

Stage II preparation involved:

• increasing the level of acclimatization in the ascent area;
• parallel reconnaissance and clarification of the object's location.

For this purpose, upon arrival in Rushan, the team was sent on foot to the base camp. They were to:

• choose a location for the base camp;
• receive cargo from the helicopter;
• conduct reconnaissance and supply missions under the route until the arrival of the entire expedition team.

On July 7, the team arrived on foot at the base camp.

On July 8, team participants made radial exits:

• to the 4400 m saddle under the Leдовую peak;
• to the Tsakh-Dar gorge.

As a result, the peak was discovered, its location clarified, and the approach path determined.

On July 9-10, the entire team made a supply mission under the route, clarifying the ascent route through observation and study.

In the evening of July 10 and the morning of July 11, the remaining expedition members arrived at the base camp by helicopter and on foot.

On July 11, the team departed under the route with observers.

3. Route Characteristics — Tactical Ascent Plan.

The tactical ascent plan was refined after completing Stage II of the team's preparation, based on the results of which the route's features and each participant's strengths became known.

The 5241 m peak, located in the left tributary of the Tsakh-Dar glacier, is the highest point of the wall forming a horseshoe-shaped cirque. The steepness of the cirque's walls is 75–80°.

Such a location of the wall in an almost closed cirque made it impossible to take a profile photograph. It is practically impossible to capture such a photograph because the lower rock belt and the tower are oriented in mutually perpendicular planes. The photographs presented in the report, taken from several points (from the pass under the Leдовую peak, from the Скальная peak, and from the moraine), allow one to judge the wall's steepness.

The northern part of the wall, along which the route is planned, has significant glaciation — all protruding shelves and depressions are filled with ice, which becomes fully exposed in July, making these areas the most challenging.

The entire wall can be divided into three parts:

I part — the lower rock belt, with a height difference of 450 m and steepness close to vertical — 86°. This part is characterized by the presence of overhanging sections. A safe path was found between two rock couloirs, through which the main flow of ice, snow, and rock debris passes. The left couloir bisects the lower rock belt, while the right one borders the wall, separating it from the eastern, more gentle part. The most common form of relief in the lower rock belt is internal corners, typically overhanging at the top, with wide cracks in the center and smooth side walls.

II part — transitional, about 300 m long, with an average steepness of about 70°. It connects the lower rock belt and the summit tower. This part represents ice- and snow-covered rocks, of the "ram's forehead" type. In several places, it is cut by couloirs flowing into the main, right couloir under the summit tower. When choosing a safe path, the team considered the presence of overhangs and protective walls in the upper part. The safest section for passage is in the second half of the day when the sun is behind the ridge.

III part — the upper rock belt — "Summit Tower." The length of this section is 500 m, with steepness close to vertical — 84°. It represents a vertical plane, with rocks of the "slab" type, having small holds and thin cracks. The entire tower is crossed from bottom to top by a vertical gap, turning into a chimney in some sections and tapering off in others. This is the safest route, as the tower forms a slight convexity here, dividing the flow of ice and rock debris into two parts. Throughout the tower, there are only a few shelves suitable for sitting bivouacs and receiving rucksacks, in the lower and upper parts. Therefore, the middle part (about 300 m) must be passed without stopping — time should be allocated for processing.

The rocks throughout the tower are strong, dry, and devoid of microflora. When moving along the gap, a large number of wooden wedges and wide-profile pitons are required.

The upper part of the tower is snow-ice, and in warm weather, it can be hazardous due to dislodged stones and ice fragments. To overcome it, ice pitons and crampons are necessary.

The southern wall of the tower is more gentle and destroyed, recommended as an option for descent. It represents a 700 m overhang (steepness 70°), intersected by a system of horizontal and inclined shelves descending to the moraine.

The entire wall is characterized by "smooth" relief (granites), a lack of convenient shelves for bivouacs, everything being covered in ice, filled with frozen rock debris, and covered with dense snow.

The psychological pressure of the route is felt from below when fragments of ice and rocks start "whistling" along the couloirs, and there is no opportunity to relax during the entire working day without fear of making a mistake. During bivouacs, leaning against the wall, one constantly feels the need not to make unnecessary movements and, to change body position, has to resort to complex manipulations, first pulling oneself up on the belay.

All this requires participants to have great endurance, patience, and fortitude, and even more so — coordinated work, as a minor mistake by one participant can lead to serious consequences for the entire team and jeopardize the ascent.

Having exhaustive information about all the complexities of the route, the team did not consider it possible to apply the "siege" tactic on this route, which would have led to the exhaustion of participants and the failure of the ascent. For effective distribution of forces and optimal division of duties within the group, to ensure a high speed of movement, the team, as in the ascent to the Yagnobskaya wall (Zamin-Karор), applied a proven tactic according to the 2+2+1 scheme. That is, a group of 5 people is divided into:

• a storming autonomous pair;
• a pulling pair;
• a trailing climber.

With three equivalent leaders, the team had the opportunity to include in the plan an alternation of the first in the storming pair, which noticeably increases the final speed of route passage. Moreover, the work of the entire group on the storming pair during the exit from the bivouac and the end of the working day allowed for an increase in its working time and removal of the load associated with organizing and dismantling the bivouac. All these measures led to the following movement scheme:

• The storming pair processes the route.
• The second pair, ascending with top-rope along the fixed rope, straightens some sections. Having completed the work, the pair continues moving upwards.
• The second pair, having ascended via the fixed ropes to the upper platform, organizes the extraction of rucksacks in interaction with the trailing climber using radios.
• Upon completion of rucksack extraction, the trailing climber, moving along the fixed rope, removes pitons.

For the operational organization of rucksack reception points and bivouac organization, the following were used:

• separate rope ends 2 × 20 m;
• special marked rope — for pulling rucksacks.

Ascent Chronicle

Day 1 — July 12, 1975. Processing.

Today is the first day. We need to conduct "reconnaissance by combat." Feel the rocks, their strength, microrelief, presence, and width of cracks — a very necessary task.

The route begins along a steep snow slope, about 50° steep, to the right of rocky outcrops by 200 m and to the left of a steep couloir starting at the base of the summit tower. After 200 m of movement through snow in ropes and a 20-meter rock wall with 70° steepness, we can stop in a rock niche, sort out equipment, and look around.

Today, the Kapitanov — Grushevsky pair is processing. They have an important task — to choose the start of the route, which is not easy: there's a lot of snow on the wall, and in recent warm days, it constantly slides off the ledges, carrying rocks with it.

But experienced Oleg Kapitanov knows how it's done — experience from ascents on ice-snow routes in the Caucasus and Tian Shan suggests the correct decision.

From the rock niche 20 m up steep 90° rocks with good holds and cracks to a 60-meter internal corner. The upper 20 m of the corner overhangs with a cornice but also reliably protects from rocks and ice. Climbing the corner is extremely difficult, using the entire arsenal and modern rock climbing techniques. Wooden wedges are very helpful. From the internal corner, there's an exit to the right onto a system of smoothed "ram's foreheads," intersected by cracks and gaps. Climbing is difficult, and the section is exposed to rockfall. The belayer must stand behind a protruding ledge for a long time. After 30 m at 75°, we can stop in a safe place under a 4-meter cornice. So, in 8 hours of work, 130 m have been covered, and 61 pitons have been driven, including three bolt pitons.

Day 2 — July 13, 1975. Processing.

Today, we decided to start closer to noon when the sun hides behind the ridge, and rockfall subsides along the entire wall.

We need to pass a very dangerous section — a transition from the first cornice belt along a system of ledges and ice to the second cornice belt.

The Yaroslavtsev — Bezverkhov pair is processing today. They need to process the route to a small rock ledge under the cornice, where a bivouac can be organized.

The route passes from under the 4-meter cornice to the left onto an inclined ledge, then into the central rock couloir crossing the lower rock belt from top to bottom.

During the movement, it's necessary to press against the right wall.

Although the sun is behind the ridge, individual ice fragments still fall and whizz overhead. Climbing is average, with a rock steepness of 70°. After 60 m, not reaching 10 m to the rock couloir, a second internal corner leads upward to the right, with a similar cornice above. The corner's steepness is 90°.

The first 40 m involve climbing under a waterfall. All clothing becomes instantly wet and heavy. But there are cracks and holds, and we climb using free climbing, with supports on the corner walls. After 60 m, the pair stops on a rock ledge under the protection of a cornice — the task is completed; it's time to descend. Tomorrow is another day.

In 6 hours of work, 120 m have been covered, and 36 pitons have been driven.

Day 3 — July 17, 1975.

Departure on the route. On the morning of July 14, upon looking out of the tent with the intention of heading to the route, we realized that the weather was imposing its adjustments. The entire sky was covered with clouds, a gusty wind was blowing through the cirque, and it started snowing. The departure did not happen — three days were spent observing snowfall and waiting.

So, on July 17, we tramped through fresh snow to the rocks, and the first rucksack began its ascent. Today's task is not easy. The Kapitanov — Grushevsky pair departs forward, processing the path to the top of the first rock belt (the vertex of the triangle), while the remaining three need to:

• lift rucksacks to the end of the path processed on July 13;
• organize a bivouac on a small rock ledge.

Kapitanov went first, laden with various devices — he needs to pass the next cornice. Here, the task is more complicated — the internal corner (85–90°) contains many flakes, the stability of which raises legitimate doubts. It's not that you can load them; even touching them is dangerous. One of the smooth walls of the internal corner is proposed as an alternative. Carefully, Kapitanov passes the exit from the corner along an oblique crack at 100°, and then five meters — a mirror, only suitable for bolting. This is the key section of today's task. Steepness 100°.

Further, the route includes:

• a 40-meter steep 80° right wall of the rock couloir with good holds and cracks filled with ice, along which Valery Grushevsky quickly climbs to a small inclined ledge in the upper part of the first rock belt;
• another 60 m of ice-filled rocks with 70° steepness.

Today's task is accomplished — we can help comrades pull the last rucksacks and settle in comfortably on the ledge.

Bivouac! For the day, 150 m have been covered, the working time of the first climber is 10 hours, 65 pitons have been driven, including:

• 4 bolt pitons;
• 4 ice pitons.

Day 4 — July 18, 1975. Work on the route.

The tactics remain the same. The front pair ensures work a day ahead, while the others pull up the rear, pull rucksacks, remove pitons, and organize a bivouac.

After bad weather and fresh snowfall, the temperature dropped sharply, and not a single stone fell during the entire previous day. Today, the situation is the same, so there's a silver lining — we climb without worrying about our heads.

Again, Kapitanov — Grushevsky are ahead, but instead of rocks, they'll be working on ice — the first rock belt has ended. Having climbed a bit on rocks, the guys quickly put on crampons — a steep 40-meter ice ridge (60°) almost overhangs 10 m (80°) and transitions into a 80 m snowfield (55°). On the ice, they need to cut steps since rucksacks will have to be carried on their backs to the sheer ice wall. Taking turns with the ice axe, they trace a line of footprints under the overhang. Here, a brief consultation takes place, and Kapitanov begins to slowly make his way through the overhang, carving out hand and footholds and driving ice pitons for insurance. This takes about an hour, and finally, they reach the snowfield: a rope is quickly hung, and they can head to the bivouac, which they have to set up on small ledges, just to have enough space to sit down, wrapped in sleeping bags. This is the first control point.

In 6 hours of work by the first climber, 120 m have been covered, with:

• 5 rock pitons driven;
• 8 ice pitons driven.

Day 5 — July 19, 1975. Work on the route.

Today, we need to traverse the ice slope and reach the base of the tower: there's a safe bivouac spot.

Overhanging cornices hang above the traverse in several places, but the weather remains cold, and the wall is "silent." If it were "louder," we'd have to pass this section at night with a lantern.

The Yaroslavtsev — Skrigtil pair moves forward, quickly having a snack of caviar and chocolate. It's 7:30, and the sun is already warming the wall.

The route is complex — ice-filled rock outcrops, ice couloirs dusted with snow, and embedded stones. There's no time to ponder, especially in the grooves. Yaroslavtsev leads, pressing against the rock walls, quickly passing open sections. Pitons are driven into both rocks and ice. The goal is a small grotto under the base of the tower, where it's possible to hide and set up a safe bivouac. We still need to manage to transfer the rucksacks.

In 6 hours of work by the first climber, 220 m of ice-rock slope with an average steepness of 70° have been covered; 38 pitons have been driven, including:

• 9 ice pitons.

Only at 21:00 was the last rucksack transferred, and while preparing the platform and cooking dinner, the trailing climber, Bezverkhov, arrives at 24:00. Today was a tough day! The bivouac is semi-reclining, with water pouring in from above. This is the second control point.

Day 6 — July 20, 1975. Work on the route.

Today, we're heading onto the tower. The finish line of the route and, likely, the most challenging part. According to the plan, we should complete it in three days. We couldn't wake up early, and the sleep was interrupted — water was leaking somewhere. Only at 9:00 did we start breakfast. Kapitanov — Grushevsky are processing. The path to the summit is visible through the center of the tower, but they need to confirm this. From the grotto, 40 m to the right along a 55° snow slope leads to the base of the tower. Further, along the tower's wall to the left, an 80-meter ice groove, polished by avalanches and icefalls from the ridge, stretches. The weather still favors us — it's cold. The cornices on the ridge hang firmly. Pressing against the wall, you can drive a piton for insurance; wearing crampons and moving alternately, they reach the start of the route through the center of the tower in 80 m (steepness 50°). Yes, this is a good option, with solid rock, cracks, and holds. Climbing is extreme but interesting (steepness 85°). After 60 m of ascent, they reach a ledge — rucksacks can be received, and a bit to the left, closer to the ice couloir, there's snow for a bivouac. We need to get settled; there's time.

For the day, 180 m have been covered, the working time of the first climber is 7 hours, 36 pitons have been driven, including:

• 4 ice pitons.

We again settled in for the night rather late, but everyone's mood is uplifted — we've now realistically approached the summit; to the left, 100 m higher, the ridge is visible with overhanging cornices.

Day 7 — July 21, 1975. Work on the route.

Today is a decisive day — we need to process the entire tower, or at least the most complex part. Upon studying the route from below through a spyglass, no ledges were observed on this part of the route; there's no point in setting up a bivouac — we'll work as far as the ropes allow, and tomorrow, we'll make a final push straight to the summit.

Kapitanov — Grushevsky are processing. Our task is to:

• supply them with ropes;
• remove unnecessary pitons;
• pass supplies upwards.

We also need to urgently repair the extraction bag, or our rucksacks will fall apart on the first extraction — the rocks are very sharp with frequent, though small, cornices.

The path passes through a clearly defined vertical gap, sometimes turning into a chimney or crevice. The guys demonstrate technically precise climbing, often changing positions, and frequently driving pitons into good cracks. They rarely use ladders — their boots grip the granite perfectly; the rock is dry and clean, without microflora. V. Grushevsky, participating in the team for the first time, demonstrates excellent technical and tactical preparation. In the second half of the day, it becomes cold, and the sky is covered with clouds, but now nothing will stop us — the main difficulties are behind us.

In 12 hours of work by the first climber, 240 m of very complex rocks (85°) have been covered, and 60 pitons have been driven. We spend the night in the same place — there's no suitable ledge on the path, and there's no time for transition. Besides, this section is without water.

Day 8 — July 22, 1975. Work on the route.

We wake up easily and early. We quickly gather, have breakfast, and at 7:30, Kapitanov heads upwards to prepare a platform for rucksack extraction and then process the remaining 200 meters to the summit.

This section represents a destroyed slope cemented with ice, or rather, rocks embedded in ice. Steepness 75–80°. The wet ice, covered with a thin layer of snow, complicates movement; many stones lie ready to fall at the slightest touch. It's necessary not only to be extremely cautious during movement but also to constantly monitor the rope's behavior. Five hours are spent on the passage through the R23 section, processing the remaining meters, and then A. Skrigtil reaches the summit — he passes the last rope.

In five hours, 200 m have been covered, and 40 pitons have been driven, including:

• 4 ice pitons;
• 1 bolt piton.

But we won't spend the night on the summit — there's a strong wind and no platform — a sharp edge in the ice. We settle in where we can — the last sitting bivouac, if we find a suitable descent.

Day 9 — July 23, 1975. Descent.

The night passed with strong gusts of wind, snow fell, and fog rolled in. We slept fitfully — eagerly awaiting dawn, wanting to move and warm up.

Dedicating their ascent to the 30th anniversary of Victory over Nazi Germany, the group decides to name the peak after one of the outstanding military leaders of modern times and the Great Patriotic War — Marshal of the Soviet Union G.K. Zhukov.

We began the descent to the south. Through the fog's gaps, we saw a destroyed steep internal corner. We descended 50 m along it, then along an unclearly defined ledge to the left downwards. The descent via rope was 6 × 80 m and took seven hours. Further descent was along a snowfield to the glacier moraine.

Table of Main Route Characteristics

Ascent via the center of the North-Eastern wall of Marshal Zhukov G.K. peak — 5241 m