Shkhara (Main), North Edge, 5B cat. dif.

The initial bivouac can be organized either

1. on the "Austrian overnight stays", or
2. in a snowy hollow above the ice drops adjacent to the left of the rock outcrops of the North Edge (250–300 m above the base of the edge). From the "Austrian overnight stays" to the snowy hollow is 2 hours according to description 7. From the hollow, having overcome the randkluft, ascend 50 m up the snowy slope to a rocky ledge going from left to right along the eastern rock wall of the North Edge. The ledge 70–80 m leads to a snow-ice couloir ("tie"), dividing the lower wide part of the edge into two ridges - kant. The couloir is stone-dangerous, and therefore, having ascended along the border of the rocks of the left ridge to the rocky island in the narrow part of the couloir, one should cross the couloir and exit to the right ridge. Along the rocks of medium difficulty of the right ridge 150–200 m upwards under the overhanging rock wall. Here is the junction of the ridges of the lower part of the edge. Through the ice groove flowing into the couloir-"tie", exit to the 10 m wall and climb it to the overhanging rock. Further, the path goes along the clearly defined jagged ridge. Steep rocky sections and walls are bypassed on the snow on the right. After 150 m, on the left side, 3–5 m below the ridge, there is a platform for a tent. The subsequent movement goes along the snowy rocks of medium difficulty 80–100 m with an exit to the 50 m ice slope. After the rocky ascent on the gentle snow-ice ridge, resting against the wall of rusty rocks, it is possible to organize a bivouac. From the initial bivouac 10–12 hours walking.

Russian Alpine Championship

High-altitude technical class

Team from Voronezh Regional Public Organization "Alpinism Federation"

Ascent to Shkhara (Main) (5068 m) — via the ridge (H. Tomashek route), category 5B

2008

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, section number according to the classification table 2.5.
2. Ascent to Shkhara (Main) (5068 m) via the ridge (H. Tomashek route).
3. Category 5B.
4. Route type: combined.

Ascent Record

1. Category — snow and ice climb
2. Main Caucasus Range, Bezengi valley
3. Shkhara Main via the ice board on the North face
4. Proposed — 5B category difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1800 m, length — 2790 m, length of sections with IV–VI category difficulty — 888 m, including about 130 m of VI category difficulty. Average steepness of main sections — 44°
6. Equipment used on the route: ice screws — 197, rock pitons — 4
7. Climbing hours for ascent — 24, days — 1.5
8. All overnight stays on snow platforms

Report

Championship of the Caucasian Territorial National Management of Alpine Camps on the ascent to the summit Glavnaya Shkhara (5200 m) via the North wall (first ascent) by the team of alpine camp “Bezengi” team captain Kraynov I.P. team coach Kudinov I.B. August 1–5, 1983 Alpine camp “Bezengi”:

ASCENT PASS

1. Class — snow and ice climb.
2. Main Caucasus Range, Bezengi gorge.
3. Shkhara Main via the North face.
4. Complexity category — 5B.
5. Height difference — 1900 m, length — 2400 m, length of sections with 5–6 category complexity — 1590 m, of which 6 category complexity — 200 m.
6. Average steepness of the route — 54°, average steepness of main sections — 63°.
7. Pitons used on the route:
   • ice screws: 217
   • rock pitons: 19

MOUNTAINEERING

1. Technical class.
2. Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Main Shkhara, center of the NE wall.
4. Proposed - 5B cat. sl. first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1145 m, length: 1640 m. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. sl.: 790 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 57°, including 6 cat. sl.: 62° (4360 m–4550 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 36/2, chocks 49/3, ice screws: 60/6
7. Team's travel hours - 26 and days - 3.

Ascent Certificate

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge.
3. Peak Shkhara Gl., 5068 m, via the N wall of the 3rd ridge (“the bottle”), first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6.
5. Height difference — 1500 m.
   • wall — 1450 m
   • length — 3880 m
   • including wall length — 3130 m
     • of which 5–6 cat. diff. — 920 m

All-Union Council

Alplager "Bezengi"

The ascent is dedicated to the bright memory of Igor Alexandrovich DUDCHENKO

Caucasus

Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the center of the North face

1. BLANKOVSKY A.K., Master of Sports — "Zenit" — team leader
2. LEVIN A.S., Master of Sports — "Trud" — participant
3. KRAINOV I.P., CMS — "Spartak"
4. MELENTYEV V.I., CMS — "Zenit" 1980

Ascent Log

Region: Central Caucasus, Bezingi region, No. in table 2.5 Peak name: West Shkhara Route name: via N wall of E ridge (Razumov's route) with traverse to East Janggi Difficulty category: 6B Route characteristics: combined Route elevation gain: 1457 m Wall section length: 1730 m Total route length: 4800 m Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 285 m, 6th cat. diff.: 480 m

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |