Russian Alpine Championship

High-altitude technical class

2008

Central Caucasus, Bezengi region, section number according to the classification table 2.5.
Ascent to Shkhara (Main) (5068 m) via the ridge (H. Tomashek route).
Category 5B.
Route type: combined.
Route elevation gain: 1900 m. Route length: approximately 2500 m. Length of sections: category 5 - 125 m, category 6 - none. Average slope: main part of the route - 65°, entire route - 60°.
No pitons were left on the route. Pitons used on the route - 2. Pitons hammered: rock - 3, chocks - 32, ice - 17.
Team's total climbing hours: 31 hours, 5 days.
Team leader: Yuri A. Gaydamakin, Candidate Master of Sports. Team member: Timur M. Barabanov, 1st sports category.
Coach: Yuri A. Gaydamakin.
Departure for the route: 5:00 AM, August 11, 2008. Reach the summit: 7:00 AM, August 15, 2008. Return to "Jangi-kosh" hut: 8:30 PM, August 15, 2008. Return to Bezengi AU SB: 2:00 PM, August 16, 2008.

General photo of the summit. Taken from Austrian bivouac on August 5, 2008. Routes:

Ascent graph

Technical photo of the route. Taken from the southern slope of Peak Bezimyan (Freshfield) on August 5, 2008.

Passing a rocky section after traversing the "tie". Taken on August 11, 2008.

At the control tour (15 m from the summit). Taken on August 15, 2008 at 7:00 AM.

On the summit.