TRAVERSE OF PEAKS:

• «5100 m»
• «5200 m»
• «5340 m»
• «5689 m (Egorova V.P.)»
• «5900 m»
• «RAZDELNAYA»
• «LENINA 7134 m»
• «Lipkin ROCK» Cat. 5B, for the Spartacus Championship of the Central Council of the DSO in 1970.

Route Description

Ascent to the summit "5149"

Via the north-west ridge. Cat. diff. 1B. Depart from the base camp no later than 7:00 am. The base camp is located at an altitude of 4200 m near the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier at Serebrennny stream on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the summit, the Kок-Сай river is forded. The duration of the journey to the foot is about 1 hour. The path to the summit begins along the slope of 25°–30° of the NW ridge in the direction of the shoulder before the first steep rise of the ridge. The slope is covered with medium scree. Once on the ridge, rope up! The height of the shoulder is about 4700 m. The duration of the path from the foot is approximately 1 hour 30 minutes. Then move along the ridge towards the summit. The first section of the ridge rises at an angle of 45° for 50–60 m and is a not very wide (3–4 m) snow patch with individual protruding rocks. Insurance is simultaneous. Next begins the 1st rocky section of the ridge, rising with 3 walls 4–7 meters high and alternating between them with more gentle sections covered with snow. The average steepness of the section is 25°–30°. Insurance when overcoming rocky ascents is alternating, via rock outcrops. Further, the ridge widens, slightly drops, and then rises again at an angle of 10°–15° and is covered with snow. There follows a snowy ascent of the ridge with a steepness of 45°–50°, then a pre-summit section with a steepness of 25°, also snowy with individual protruding rocks. The width of the ridge allows simultaneous movement in rope teams. The last 100–120 meters to the summit are almost flat, with a slight ascent, and feature broken rocks. The summit consists of broken rocks. The time taken from the point of exit onto the ridge (shoulder before the first ascent of the ridge) to the summit is 2–2.5 hours.

Route Description

Ascent to peak "5812" via the western ridge

Cat. difficulty 2B

Day 1

Departure at 15:00 from the base camp located at an altitude of 4200 m below the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the peak, two branches of the Kok-Sai River are forded. The duration of the path to the foot is about 1 hour. The path to the summit begins along the gully of a stream flowing from a snowfield located in the cirque between the S and W ridges. The slope is 10°–15°. Further, the path goes along a slope of 30°–35° towards the S counterfort of the W ridge. The slope is covered with medium-sized scree. The overnight camping spot is chosen at an altitude of about 4800 m on the S slope of the W ridge, where a campsite can be set up with a small amount of labor and there are snowfields to fetch water. The duration of the path from the base camp to the overnight camping spot is 3.5–4 hours.

Ascent via the South Ridge, category 3A.

Day 1

Departure at 15:00 from the base camp located at 4200 m under the tongue of the Oktyabrsky Glacier on the right (orographic) side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the summit, the branches of the Kok-Sai River are forded twice. The duration of the path to the foot of the summit is 1 hour. The path to the summit begins on the southwest slope via a couloir covered with medium scree. The steepness of the ascent is initially 20°, then increases to 35°. The overnight stop is chosen at an altitude of around 5100 m on the slope leading to the south ridge. There, with some effort, a campsite can be constructed, and there are snowfields for obtaining water. The duration of the path from the base camp to the overnight stop is 4–5 hours.

Day 2

Departure at 4:30 AM up the slope with a steepness of 30°–40°, covered with snow and small scree, in the direction of the south ridge. Movement is in rope teams. The duration of the path to the ridge is up to 1 hour. Movement along the ridge is in rope teams to the left in the direction of the summit. Insurance is simultaneous. Initially, the ridge is a rocky ridge with a slight steepness of ascent. Movement is with simultaneous insurance through rocks.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Trans-Alay Range. Valley of the Kichkesu River (Left Kichkesu Glacier). Section number according to the classification table — 4.4
2. Name of the summit: 5395.5 m. Proposed — Peak Semen Dvornichenko. Route: Via the SE ridge from the Left Kichkesu Glacier.
3. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Character of the route: ice and snow.
5. Elevation gain of the route: 880 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 4200 m. Length of sections with III category of difficulty — 850 m. Steepness: main part of the route up to 40°.
6. Pitons used on the route: rock — 0, ice — 57, including ATO — 0.
7. Team's moving hours: 20 hours.

Pamir. Trans-Alai ridge. Peak Musa Dzhaliľ 4729. Assumed category 4A–4B, first ascent of the route. The character of the route is snow-ice. Route length — 1400 m. Difficulty sections:

• Cat. 1 — 400 m
• Cat. 2 — 100 m
• Cat. 3 — 600 m
• Cat. 4 — 200 m
• Cat. 5 — 50 m
• Cat. 5+ — 50 m Average slope of the main part — 50°. Pitons left on the route — 0. Ice screws used — 80. Total amount of technical climbing aids used — 0. Total climbing time — 6 h 30 min (1 day without overnight stay).

Russian Mountaineering Championship, "High-Altitude" Class

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of LENINA (ABU ALI IBN SINA) via the Eastern ridge of Peak Kompleksny, 5A category of difficulty (tentatively), by the team from Voronezh, from August 4 to August 6, 2023.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Saukdara ridge (western spur of Zulumart ridge, North Pamir). Valley: Northern Zulumart. Section number according to the 1999 classification table — 4.5
2. Peak name: peak Beleuli. Route name: via the northern wall of the eastern ridge.
3. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: snow-ice.
5. Route height difference: 905 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1680 m. Length of sections:
   • V category of difficulty — 0 m.

Peak Beleuli 6065 m. Via the north face and east ridge — second ascent

(Route by MAI (MAI) tourist club, led by A. Lebedev, cat. 4B) Peak Beleuli (6065) was one of the last unclimbed "six-thousander" peaks in the Pamir region until 2001. It is the highest point in the Zulumart-Saukdara mountain node. Located in the Saukdara ridge. It has two peaks:

• The eastern peak is about 5950 m, with a rock wall dropping to the east;
• The higher western peak is 6065 m. Between the peaks lies a plateau, from which a steep ice fall descends to the north. (From A. Lebedev's report.) View of Peak Beleuli and the ascent route from the North Zulumart glacier.

Contents

1. Route Passport — 4

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: