Route Description

Ascent to the summit "5149"

Via the north-west ridge. Cat. diff. 1B.

Depart from the base camp no later than 7:00 am. The base camp is located at an altitude of 4200 m near the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier at Serebrennny stream on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the summit, the Kок-Сай river is forded. The duration of the journey to the foot is about 1 hour.

The path to the summit begins along the slope of 25°–30° of the NW ridge in the direction of the shoulder before the first steep rise of the ridge. The slope is covered with medium scree. Once on the ridge, rope up! The height of the shoulder is about 4700 m. The duration of the path from the foot is approximately 1 hour 30 minutes. Then move along the ridge towards the summit.

The first section of the ridge rises at an angle of 45° for 50–60 m and is a not very wide (3–4 m) snow patch with individual protruding rocks. Insurance is simultaneous.

Next begins the 1st rocky section of the ridge, rising with 3 walls 4–7 meters high and alternating between them with more gentle sections covered with snow. The average steepness of the section is 25°–30°. Insurance when overcoming rocky ascents is alternating, via rock outcrops.

Further, the ridge widens, slightly drops, and then rises again at an angle of 10°–15° and is covered with snow. There follows a snowy ascent of the ridge with a steepness of 45°–50°, then a pre-summit section with a steepness of 25°, also snowy with individual protruding rocks. The width of the ridge allows simultaneous movement in rope teams. The last 100–120 meters to the summit are almost flat, with a slight ascent, and feature broken rocks. The summit consists of broken rocks. The time taken from the point of exit onto the ridge (shoulder before the first ascent of the ridge) to the summit is 2–2.5 hours.

Descent is along the slope of 10–8 of the ridge, initially along a slope with a steepness of 30°–35° (in rope teams), then with medium scree. The descent time to the foot of the summit is 1–1.5 hours, and from the foot of the summit to the base camp is about 1 hour. When returning to camp, the Kок-Сай river is forded. It is not recommended to leave the base camp too late, as it is difficult to cross the river after the ascent due to the high water level.

Conclusion

The conquered summit proved to be technically and physically not difficult.

The summit is an interesting panoramic point in the area for acclimatization ascents. From the summit, p. Trapezia, the peaks of the Zulumart ridge are clearly visible, as are p. Lenin, Moskva — Pekin, and in the south-west direction, an interesting area of rocky peaks:

• Pамирская Ужба (5505 m)
• Двугорбый (5775 m)
• Веры Слуцкой (5910 m)
• others.

Taking into account the altitude, as well as the requirement to apply elementary mountaineering techniques during the ascent, we assume that the ascent (traverse) to the summit "5149" via the North-West ridge is cat. diff. 1B.

Group composition: PRIYMETS I.A., TOHVER on October 10.