Ushba Shkhana, 4710 m, via "Red corner", c, CA cat. diff., route A. Shultse, 03. From the Ma­ze­ri vil­lage, the path to the summit goes along the small Gu­li-Cha­le stream to the Gulsky glacier (6–7 hours). Bivouac on the grassy slopes near the Gul glacier. From the bivouac site:

• Cross the Gul glacier towards a wide snow couloir, which starts the ascent to the Ma­zer­skaya saddle.
• Having gone about 2/3 of the distance along the couloir, turn right into a small rocky couloir.
• Exit through it to a ridge, which leads to the beginning of a narrow snow couloir.
• Move along this couloir to the Ma­zer­skaya saddle (jags) — 4–4.5 hours from the bivouac.

v. USHBA SHIKHANA, 4710 m via NW edge, cat. diff. 5B, G. Zhivlyuk's route, 62 Height difference — 2000 m, average steepness — 65°, length of sections with category VI difficulty — 120 m, V — 180 m, IV — 820 m, III — 450 m. Trekking hours — 47. Number of bivouacs — 3. Climbing leader — Nasonova E.T. Climbing date — 9:00–14:00, 1982. Recommendations: From "Ohotnichye bivouacs" or from the moraine of Ushba glacier, a hanging glacier is clearly visible, located to the right of the leftmost rocky edge of the NW wall D. of Ushba. The hanging glacier and the NW edge, abutting against the sheer walls of the "bastion", are good landmarks on the lower half of the route. The length of the edge to the "bastion" is about 1500 m. The path along the summit tower is clearly visible from the side of Ushba pass. It is mainly a diagonal traverse along a wall covered with flowstone ice with a steepness of about 70°. The length of the route along the tower is 1000–1100 m. The main technical difficulties are encountered when bypassing the tower. The western orientation of the wall contributes to the fact that the group gets "tired" late and does not have time to make a comfortable bivouac. It is recommended to set up a bivouac no later than 16:00.

Route description:

From the bivouac on the moraine of Ushba glacier, we head to the small glacier descending from under route D. Grigorenko — Prigoda. From the small glacier, we cross the rocky edge in its narrow part (160 m of category III–IV rocks) and get to the hanging glacier. We ascend the lower part of the hanging glacier, broken by crevices, onto its plateau and then, after 350–400 m along the snowy plateau, we reach the NW edge.

I. Technical class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Ushba South peak via East face (Khatskevich route) 4. Proposed - 6B cat. diff., second ascent 5. Height difference - 1260 m, including wall section - 1075 m. Route length - 1600 m, wall section - 1275 m. Average steepness of main wall section - 75° (3550–4250 m) of which 6B cat. diff. -

• 85° (3615–3625 m)
• 90° (3625–3635 m)
• 95° (3705–3725 m)

Report

on the first ascent of the South Ushba (4710 m) west wall by the "Digoriya" alpine camp team consisting of:

• 1. Slesov I.V. — team captain, Master of Sports of the USSR
• 2. Shevandrin N.I. — deputy captain, Candidate for Master of Sports
• 3. Dzhioev G.L. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• 4. Mikhalev V.E. — Candidate for Master of Sports Rostov-on-Don 1977

PASSPORT

1. Class — ice and snow
2. Central Caucasus, Ushbinsky spur of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Ushba South peak (4710 m) via the icefalls of the Northwest, Northwestern wall.
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation difference: 2210 m, length 3630 m, length including traverses — 3800 m. Length of sections 5–6 — 2300 m. Average steepness of main sections 40° (2500 m – 4710 m). Of these, 6 — 140 m (90°, 3030–3130); (90°, 3565–3605 m).
6. Number of pitons driven — 233: | Rock | Bolts | Chocks | Ice screws | | :--: | :-----: | :--: | :-----: | | 39/0 | 0/0 | 4/0 | 190/0 |

Moscow Alpine Championship 2016 High-altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent to Ushba South (4710 m) via the left part of the southwest wall (Myslyaev's Route) 6A category of complexity The teams from the Mountain Club "Alpindustria" together with the Alpine Federation of Samara Region on August 19–22, 2016 Moscow 2016

Ascent Passport

up. 595 dated 13.11.90 2.4.445 N 34 RSFSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM 1990 6A and/or TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS REPORT REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF USHBA SOUTH 4711 m VIA THE BASTIONS OF THE SOUTHWEST WALL (FIRST ASCENT) BY THE TEAM FROM THE SPORTS CLUB "RODINA" OF THE KIROV REGIONAL SPORTS COMMITTEE TEAM LEADER ZHOLOBOV M.P. TEAM COACH MASHKOVTSEV V.I. Sports Club "RODINA": 610006, Kirov, ul. Lepsse, 4A, tel. 30310, 36592. Team Leader: ZHOLOBOV Mikhail Pavlovich, Kirov, ul. Surikova, 9, apt. 54, tel. 42303. Deputy Team Leader: SHABALIN Pavel Eduardovich, 610000, Kirov, ul. Nekrasova, 6A, apt. 36, tel. 41034. Team Coach: MAKOVTSEV Vladimir Ivanovich, Kirov, ul. Lenina, 63/12, apt. 3.

264. Ushba South via the center of the Northwest wall (combined route, Yu. Grigorenko - Prigoda, cat. 5B, fig. 32, 37, 38). From the initial bivouac in the cirque of the southeastern branch of the Ushbinsky glacier, under the western ridge of Ushba South (point 259), approach the right side of the lower rock belt. From the glacier, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope, then 150–200 m of very difficult rocks (aid, exposed) on the right side of the lower belt, left of a large corner, to reach the Georgian shelf. From the initial bivouac, 8–10 hours. I. Marr's group exited onto the shelf from the right, where it descends almost to the ice-and-snow slope of the southeastern branch. Along the steep snowy slabs of the Georgian shelf, make a difficult traverse 300–350 m up and left, crossing numerous ice gullies (avalanches, stones). Ascend 120 m up and left on steep rocks of medium and above medium difficulty to a platform at the end of the Georgian shelf - the upper part of the Lower rock belt. Bivouac. From the initial bivouac, 8–14 hours. From the platform, along a steep 80–90-meter ridge of the Lower ice-and-snow slope, approach the left side of the base of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt of the Northwest wall. Along a steep, difficult, interrupted ledge-corner of the Central bastion, 120 m up and right, under overhanging rocks. Through a crack in the overhanging rocks, 8 m up (aid, leaning) under a large corner. On the right side of the corner, a very difficult ascent 60–80 m (aid, leaning) onto a shelf, then through a crack and wall into a niche. Further, 70 m up a very difficult (aid, leaning) vertical corner, bypassing overhanging rocks on the left, to a small platform. Sitting bivouac. From the Georgian shelf, 10–12 hours. From the shelf, along steep, smoothed, iced rocks, a difficult ascent 40 m (aid, leaning) to the top of the Central bastion of the Middle rock belt. From the Central bastion:

Mt. Ushba 2000 m (C–D), via NW wall and descent to Gul lake («Kрест» / "Cross"), cat. 6A.

1st day — Hike to «Nemetskie nochevki» (German overnight camp) in Shkhelda gorge takes 4–6 hours. 2nd day — From «Nemetskie nochevki» through Ushba icefall:

• Ascend to Ushba pass and enter the upper part of Ushba glacier.
• Following its right edge, approach the NW counterfort of S. Ushba.
• Descend along the counterfort to the point where a glacier tongue "breaks through" it.
• To the left of it, on a rock shelf of Shkhelda slope of the counterfort, there is a convenient site. 3rd day — Descend to the glacier via inclined shelves and approach the I-st bergschrund. Cross the first bergschrund via a rope and then the second one. After overcoming the second bergschrund, reach the rocks of the left (in the direction of travel) side of a steep ice couloir continuing along the counterfort (NW edge), to the left of it. Further, either via the couloir or the rocks of the left side (120 m), bypassing difficult rocks via ice and vice versa. In the upper part, the left side of the couloir turns into a rocky ridge abutting the left side of the counterfort. Here, one should reach the ridge of the counterfort — this is the most technically challenging section. To reach the ridge, ascend the wall (40 m) to the right of a wide chimney filled with flowstone ice. Further movement along the ridge:

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: