64. Tsurungal via the West Face (combined route, V. Gabelashvili, grade 4A, fig. 5, 12). From the "Ailama" alpine camp, follow the trail up the gorge along the left bank of the Koruldashi River. Above the point where the second stream of the Koruldashi Glacier merges into the river on the right, cross the river and follow the trail on the left side of the large green moraine to reach the lower plateau of the Koruldashi Glacier. It takes 1–1.5 hours from the alpine camp. On the glacier, make your way to the right side of the ice-and-snow slope with rockfall in the upper part, descending from the Tsurungal saddle on the Main Caucasian Range between Ailama and Tsurungal. From the glacier, having overcome the bergschrund:

• 200–250 m up and to the right (loose rocks) along the steep broken ice-and-snow slope below the

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: combined
2. Ascent area: Dagestan mountains
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Adдала-Шухгель Mt., 4151 m, via N ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 850 m
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections:
     • I difficulty category — 590 m

1. Ascent class
2. Climbing area
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Estimated difficulty category
5. Route characteristics
6. Number of pitons driven
7. Number of travel hours
8. Number of overnight stays
9. Names of team leader and participants, their sports qualification
10. Team coach

I. Category of first ascents. 2. Region 2.10, Dagestan Mountains, Bogossky Ridge. 3. Addalashukhgelmeer, 415 m, via the right gully of the North-East face, combined route. 4. Proposed category 3B, first ascent. 5. Height difference 700 m, route length: category 1 - 450 m, category 2 - 450 m, category 3 - 120 m, category 4 - 195 m, category 5 - 15 m, total route length 1220 m, average slope of the gully 45°. 6. Pitons used: rock - 6 pcs, ice screws - 17 pcs. 7. Climbing time - 7 hours. 8. No overnight stays. Overnight stay at the base camp, at TDS "Sulak-Vysokogornaya" (2953 m). 9. Leader: Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, Candidate for Master of Sports. Team members: Ivanov Alexander Petrovich, 2nd sports category; Maximov Vladimir Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category; Fomin German Vladimirovich, 2nd sports category.

PASSPORT

1. The route is combined
2. East Caucasus 2.9, Kila River valley
3. Mt. Addala-Shukhgelmeer (4151) via the north-eastern wall.
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: a. Elevation gain: 1100 m. b. Average steepness of main sections: 68° (3250–4080 m) c. Length: 1550 m (II cat. — 350 m; III cat. — 340 m; IV cat. — 460 m; V cat. — 400 m.)
6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: №2.9 (East Caucasus, Bogossky Ridge)
3. Peak, its height and route: Addala-Shukhgelmeэр East, 3970 m, via the northern counterfort
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 770 m, average steepness — 50°, section duration: R1–500 m, R2–250 m, R3–250 m, R4–220 m, R5–120 m
6. Number of driven pitons:
   • rock: 3
   • ice: 1
   • bolt: –

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: combined
2. Ascent area: 2.9.6 mountains of Dagestan
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Addala Eastern, 4025 m via N ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 800 m
   • average steepness — 50°
   • length of sections: III cat. diff. — 170 m, II — 690 m, I — 450 m
   • 7 ice, 2 rock, 2 screw anchors

Ascent Passport. I. Route is combined (K) 2. 2.96 mountains of Dagestan (East. Caucasus) 3. Ascent to the peak Babaku, 3997 m via ridge 10 4. Presumed category of difficulty — 1B 5. Route characteristics: — length — 900 m — total elevation gain — 790 m — average steepness — 40° 6. Pitons were not used 7. The route was completed without intermediate bivouacs

13

I. Climbing category — Combined 2. Climbing area — 2.9. Eastern Caucasus 3. Peak, its height and ascent route — Bazardyuzi (4466 m) via N ridge 4. Expected difficulty category — 2B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2338 m average steepness — 45° section lengths: I—2500 m, II—200 m, III—70 m, IV—40 m, V—200 m, VI—250 m, VII—40 m, VIII—350 m 6. Number of pitons driven: for belay for creating belay stations

Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the West face (through the "Gendarme" "Surkov")

Central Council of the DSO "Avangard"

Kiev — 1967

Data on team members