Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: combined

2. Ascent area: Dagestan mountains

3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Adдала-Шухгель Mt., 4151 m, via N ridge

4. Estimated difficulty category: 2B

5. Route characteristics:

   • height difference — 850 m
   • average steepness — 45°
   • length of sections:
     • I difficulty category — 590 m
     • II difficulty category — 200 m
     • III difficulty category — 75 m

6. Pitons hammered:

   • rock — 5/0
   • ice — 2/0

7. Number of climbing hours: 7

8. Number of overnight stays: no overnight stays

9. Names of leader and participants, their sports qualification:

   • Shanavazov Sh. — 1st sports category
   • Ilyina E. — 2nd sports category
   • Aliskandiev A.A. — 3rd sports category
   • Dzhavatkhanova P. — 2nd sports category

10. Team coach: Kozorezov E.F.

11. Ascent date: July 9, 1986

12. Organization: "Daggosuniversity Mountain Club 'Eos'"

13. Addala via N ridge. S.V. st. 45

14. Addali via N ridge. 2B or. Group's route

Section R1–R2

Sections R3–R6

Sections R2–R4, Section R0–R1

Area map

The first known attempt to ascend Adдала-Шухгель peak via the North ridge was made in May 1974 by a group led by K.E. Akhmedkhanov, but was unsuccessful due to heavy snow cover on the route and approaches. The group turned back from the R3–R4 section.

In June 1974, a group led by A. Aligaziev ascended Adдала via the North ridge, approaching from the Northwest cirque. No route description was made.

Judging by the contents of a note found in the summit cairn, on October 5, 1985, a duo from Baku, T. Tagiev and A. Zharkov, climbed the described route. The group did not register with the KSP and did not provide a route description. The note did not include an assessment of the route's difficulty.

Approach to the route description

• From the "Sulak — high-mountain" weather station, follow the left-bank (orographic) moraine of the NE Addala glacier and descend to the glacier about 40 meters from its end.
• Traverse the glacier, initially towards the N–E wall, and then, after passing the 2nd step of the icefall, turn right and approach the rocks and scree of the N ridge. From the weather station — 1–1.5 hours. Travel across the glacier must be in rope teams.

Explanation of the diagram

• The ridge is composed of heavily weathered schist; gendarmes are outcrops of sandstone and slabs.
• Protection is required along the entire ridge.

During the ascent, the route was in ideal condition. Snow cover may complicate passage to the extent of 1/2–I difficulty category.

Descent is recommended via the Charasen-Anda slope to the Tsobegodari kutan.

C-3 spheres of the Aggan-Myrient river

Route Diagram

Sections:

• R0–R1 — "Sulak" WS — Ice plateau

• R1–R2 — Ice plateau — N ridge

• R2–R3 — Along the ridge to the wall

• R3–R4 — Wall

• R4–R5 — Along the ridge to the saddle

• R5–R6 — Saddle — Ridge shoulder

• R6–R7 — Shoulder — Summit

• Adдала peak

  • R6: 60 m, 5°, 1
  • R5: 200 m, 50°, 2; 5 m, 5°, 1
  • R4: 15 m, 65°, 3
  • R3: 80 m, 15°, 1
  • R2: 300 m, 20°, 1; 60 m, 45°, 3
  • R1: 300 m, 25°, 1