Report

On the ascent of the KCR team to the summit of Semenov Bashi 3602 m

via the counterfort of the North-Eastern wall. Presumably 3B cat. dif. Second ascent. Semenova E. A. — 3rd sports category, leader Semenov M. A. — CMS, participant Alpclub — "Gornoye Bezumiye"

2. Caucasus

REPORT

On the ascent of the KCR team to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m

via the south ridge. Confirmed 3B category of difficulty. Restore justice - return the forgotten route to the classifier. Semenov M. A. - CMS Popov A. Yu. - 3rd sports category Date of report: November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2. From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.

Report on the second ascent by the team from the multifaceted mountaineering club "Freeline" in Essentuki

To the summit of Zub Sofruju

via the direttissima of the western wall, 6A category of difficulty Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2020 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59 Popov M.L. 89282657130

Report

On the ascent of the combined team of KCHR to the summit of Pik Ine 3455 m

via the southeastern counterfort. Presumably 4B category of complexity. First ascent. Semyonov M. A. — team leader Ankudinov A. I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Date of report compilation: November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Participants of the ascent

Report on the Ascent of the National Team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the Summit of Belalakaya 3861 m

via the South-Eastern Lap. Presumably 5A category of difficulty. First Ascent. Semenov M. A. — team leader Tkachenko V. I. — 1st sports category Report compiled in November 2019

2. Caucasus

2.2. From Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass

Climbing Participants

1. Team Leader — Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. Candidate for Master of Sports. Coach — Shipilov V. A.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus (from Marukh pass to Makhar pass)
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Yubileynyy (3567 m) via the Western wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 475 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 245 m average steepness — 67°
6. Pitons hammered:

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

4. Ascent to the Ertzog peak via the eastern ridge — category 4A difficulty (see Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turiy Lake, then:

• up the moraine,
• then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is broken, thorough belay!),
• to the left of two rocky outcrops along a steep snowy ascent to the Ertzog saddle. Bivouac location.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope:

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

• right — upwards 35–40 m,
• then left — upwards,
• exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further: