Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Ushba South peak (4710) via the left part of the Southwest wall (Myshlyaev's route).
4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, second ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1460 m (3250 m — 4710 m); length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 810 m; average steepness of main sections —
6. Pitons hammered:

Fig. 27

1. Ascent to the summit of Glavny Amanauz (3757 m) from the Amanauzsky Pass — category 3b difficulty (Fig. 27)

From Dombayskaya Polyana across the bridge over the Alibek River and along the trail to the crossing over the Amanauz River. Crossing to the right bank, then:

• along the moraine,
• through the "barany lby" to the Amanauzsky Glacier,
• along the glacier to the terminal moraine below the West Amanauz Glacier. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3–4 hours. Further (in rope teams!), ascent to the Amanauzsky Pass between the peaks Glavny Amanauz and Sofruju. Ascent on the right side of the heavily crevassed glacier. In the upper part, under the slopes of Zub Sofruju peak, one should move to the middle of the glacier due to possible firn avalanches from the slopes of Zub Sofruju. The exit to the pass is via a bergschrund on a steep (50°) snowy slope — 120 m (belaying!), slightly to the left of a rock outcrop. There is a bivouac site on the pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 8–9 hours. From the pass, along the несложным скалам (easy rocks) of the western ridge to the gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the right and continue along the ridge to the red gendarme.

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Jigit, 5170 m, via the center of the large triangle of the North face.
4. Difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: route length — 940 m, height difference from the bergschrund to the ridge — 870 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 515 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 64, chocks — 54, ice screws — 37.
7. Team's travel hours: 24 hours and 2 days.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1 sitting bivouac, carved in rock covered with ice.

8.6.1.12

Ascent Passport

1. Khibiny mountain range. Ganeshinga Cirque. Classification table section number: #8.6
2. Name of the peak: Vudyavrchorr 1067 m, route name — «Molotok».
3. Proposed — 5A cat. difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 390 (by altimeter). Route length: 490 m. Section length:
   • V cat. difficulty — 124 m.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ① Class. 5А+1 protocol No. 3 dated 22/XI–46 123 TOURIST CLUB READING ROOM No. 797

RECORD TRAVERSE

PTYSH—DJUGUTURLUCHAT

27.8

Lesson No. 11 from October 24, 1962

Ascent Passport

1. Route — Snow-ice
2. Region — Приполярный Urengoy, Sablin Ridge
3. Category of difficulty — 2B, proposed
4. Route length, height difference — 1000 m, 600 m
5. Piton placement — 2 (ice screw)
6. Movement hours — 8 hours
7. Leader — Eremkin Mikhail Alekseevich (Pr. Shkat.). Participants: Polyakov Sergei Nikolaevich (Gr. Skot.), Senyashkin Alexander Mikhailovich (Pr. U koyt)

Ascent Log.

1. Category: Rock
2. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskoe valley, Orlenok valley
3. Sputnik (2650). Via southern ridge
4. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent
5. Height difference: 250 m Route length: 900 m. Rock section: 450 m
6. Pitons left on the route: rock 2 pcs.
7. Team's climbing hours: five up, four down
8. Leader: Kolokolnikov Konstantin Vladimirovich

1. Rock climbing.
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Karavshin river basin.
3. Peak Slesova (4240 m) — via SW wall.
4. 6A category of difficulty, presumably, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1200 m, length 1590 m, average steepness 61°, steepest parts 72°, length of sections

• 5th category of difficulty 550 m
• 6th category of difficulty 336 m

6. Pitons driven: | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | Ice pitons |

Saken-Bashi

1. Ascent to the summit of Saken-Bashi (3500 m) from Saken-Dalar Pass — Category 2A difficulty. From Uzunkol Alpine Camp, follow the right bank of the Myrdy River to the beginning of the Myrdy Glacier moraine. Follow the trail and grassy slopes to a large terrace. The bivouac site is "Myrdy Nochevki". 3 hours from the camp. From the bivouac, go up to the right under the scree below the slopes of Kara-Bashi to the Myrdy Glacier. Traverse the middle part of the glacier and then follow the snowy slopes to Myrdy Pass. (Bypass the bergschrund on the left under the walls of Kirpich Peak). 1.5-2 hours from the bivouac. From the pass, traverse the plateau and a large rock fall above Saken-Dalar Pass. Follow the ledges on the left, descend to the snowy ridge of the pass, and then bypass (on the left) a separate rock — to a snowfield leading to the beginning of the ascent to the summit ridge. Follow the first left couloir (belay!):

• stay on the left side;
• 60 m, 45°;
• exit to the ridge (belay!). From here, follow the ridge and a wide slab (control cairn here) (belay!). Then follow a steep (belay!) snowfield, 45° — 40 m ascent to a simple rocky ridge. After a small depression in the ridge — ascent to the pre-summit ridge. Traverse heavily broken rocks (belay!) — to the summit. 5 hours from Saken-Dalar Pass.

Report

on the first ascent route

To the summit of Begemot

1600 m Altai Republic, Shirlak waterfall area

Route "Podkustovnyy vypolzzen'"

via the southern wall proposed 5B cat. diff. (rock) April 21, 2024