Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours.

From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent.

Along the wall of the ascent:

• right — upwards 35–40 m,
• then left — upwards,
• exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!).

Further:

• straight up onto the grey scree,
• along the scree to the grey slab.

From the bivouac — 3–4 hours.

Along the slab straight up 30 m, then left — upwards along easy rocks and grassy ledges to an overhanging wall. From the wall right onto the ridge and along the ledges, left of two gendarmes, ascent to a pass. The gendarme on the ridge of the first pass is bypassed from the left. From the pass — onto the ridge and along it to a 50-meter gendarme. Under the gendarme 2–3 m left to a crack, along it ascent 3–4 m, then traverse right 15–16 m and further straight up along the wall of the gendarme to its summit (bolted protection!), on the gendarme a control cairn. Descent from the gendarme 12 m rappel. Behind the gendarme a bivouac site. From the first bivouac 11–12 hours.

Further left — upwards along a wide couloir (rockfall danger!) and exit onto the ridge. Along the ridge to the next ascent. Bypass the ascent along a 35 m wall (bolted protection!) and again exit onto the ridge.

The next big gendarme on the ridge is bypassed from the right along a ledge; then exit into a couloir and along it onto the ridge.

Further left along the ridge to a 70 m wall and along it straight up (bolted protection!) onto the ridge.

Along the ridge to a gendarme, bypass the gendarme from the left along a 65 m wall (bolted protection!).

Further along the ridge 55–60 m to the next gendarme:

• Bypass the gendarme along a ledge (bolted protection!);
• Exit onto the ridge along a narrow couloir (rockfall danger, protection!).

Along the ridge to a pointed gendarme, which is overcome head-on with bolted protection, further along easy rocks to the summit of Perednyaya Chotcha.

Further route see in the description of the traverse of both Chotcha peaks.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — no more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac — foot of the northwestern ridge.
3. Time of departure from the bivouac — 4:00–5:00 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2 × 40 m; b) expendable cordelette — 6 m; c) rock pitons — 12–15; d) ice pitons — 2–3; e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 12.
5. Possible bivouac sites: 1st — on the northwestern ridge; 2nd — under the 30-meter slab; 3rd — on the saddle behind the big gendarme; 4th — behind the third gendarme; 5th — on the summit; 6th — on the saddle.