Ascent Report

Team from St. Petersburg on peak 973 m, via the north wall, approximately 4B category of difficulty, July 27, 2015, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Lovozerskie Tundra Mountains, 1st Raslak Cirque area, Raslak stream (tributary of Sergevan River), section 8.7 ECTM 2011
2. Peak 973 m, via the north wall
3. Proposed category: 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: rock climbing
5. Route height difference: 360 m, including 300 m of wall ascent Route length: 550 m, including 450 m of wall ascent. Length of sections with V difficulty: 70 m, with VI difficulty: 0. Average steepness of the main route section: 67°; total route: 62°
6. Pitons left on the route: 1, including 0 bolts

Ai-Petri (Main Peak) via South Ridge, Category 3B

R0–R1 To the right of the main couloir, ascend leftwards and upwards along an inclined ledge to the beginning of the south ridge. Access the south ridge via an 80-meter wall with very difficult rocks. Climb an 8-meter smooth wall by free climbing until a crack, then ascend using ladders and hooks. R1–R2 Continue rightwards into an internal corner, 7-8 meters, to a protruding cork, under which it is possible to set up an anchor. The protruding cork is overcome with the aid of:

• ladders,
• hooks,
• wooden wedges. Then, ascend 13-15 meters straight up along a crack that transitions into a crevice near a dried bush. This is a very challenging section. From the bush, ascend the crevice, then along an internal corner to access an inclined ledge. The ridge is 5-8 meters away. Here, it is possible to set up an anchor using a large pine tree. R2–R3 Continue along the ridge (rocks of medium difficulty, section length is 175 meters). Then, overcome 25 meters of medium-difficulty rocks along the ridge, bypassing the first and second sentinels on the left. Ascend a couloir to a saddle between a boulder and jagged peaks. The summit is 60 meters away.

Ai-Petri (main peak) via the central wall with traverse of the teeth, 5a cat. diff.

R0–R1: From the pine tree near the Hosta-Bash spring, a slanting earthy ledge with a pine tree growing out of it is visible. Ascend to the pine tree via moderately difficult rocks with ledges, then via a vertical 40-meter chimney (very difficult rocks, pitons). From the pine tree:

• 10 m right along the ledge,
• then up an inside corner for 25 m to another pine tree, with moderately difficult rocks. Then:
• move to a large slanting inside corner,
• ascend to a grotto (40 m), difficult rocks. The grotto overgrown with holdfast bushes remains on the right. 1-2

"Feathers" — a non-technical description of the route to the top of Ai-Petri

Tourist Encyclopedia

Feathers (Ai-Petri)

The entire Ai-Petri massif is clearly visible from the highway if you stop a little before the point where the cable car cables pass over the road (when driving from Simeiz). It's even more convenient to drive to the middle station of the cable car, which is located above the highway. The cable car itself goes over the right part of the massif. In the left part of the wall:

• a huge cornice;
• a depression about a hundred meters high, which we conditionally called the "TV". The two parts of the wall are separated by a counterfort, which is a series of rock feathers stacked on top of each other. The height of each of them is 30–40 m. The route passes through them. From the middle station of the cable car, walk up the road, and after about 300 m, turn left onto the road leading to the barrier. From the barrier, go through the forest, veering left, towards the left part of the massif — approach the rocky ridge blocking the path to the wall. Bypass the ridge from the left. After it — up and to the right. All approaches to the wall are within range of stones falling from the couloir located above the wall. Pass under the wall as quickly as possible. Get dressed and rope up directly under the route.

Ai-Petri (Main Peak) via "Feathers" 5A cat.

The wall faces southeast with a 500-meter cliff and is located in the center of the Ai-Petri massif. The route requires:

• vertical pitons
• horizontal pitons
• U-shaped pitons
• ice pitons R0–R1: From the Khosta-Bash clearing, approach the base of Ai-Petri and move along the talus to a large inclined rock shelf 40 m wide and 40–45 m long. The route begins from this shelf. 1–2. Ascend easy rocks to the base of a chimney. For the first 40 meters, the chimney is very narrow, so it is recommended to ascend without a backpack. Organize belays in the widening part of the chimney. The rocks are difficult. The next 40 meters are ascended:
• on tensioned limbs

Al-Pe­tri Wall

пе­ря — 5Б

Ai-Petri (eastern peak) via south-eastern ridge, category 3B

The approaches to the route start from the Yalta-Sevastopol highway at the turnoff to Miskhor. The route begins along the ridge that goes left from the center of the eastern wall (moderate rocks, 40 m). The landmark is an inclined terrace located to the right of the ridge. From the ridge, transition to a series of vertical cliffs with a weakly expressed counterfort, the length of this section is 20 m. Then:

• traverse left,
• ascend 30 m along moderate rocks,
• follow an inclined ledge to a vertical chimney. The chimney leads to a ledge, from which difficult climbing up an inclined ledge leads to a rocky ridge where a yew tree grows. Continue towards a pine tree (difficult rocks, 15–20 m). From the pine tree, move upwards and to the right along the rocky ridge. The path along the ridge is easy. The length of this section is 80 m. Then, very difficult climbing up overhanging rocks leads to the pre-summit tower. The length of this section is 20 m. On the plateau, ascend along the ledges and join the trail leading to Miskhor. The route length is 580 m:

Eastern summit of Ai-Petri. Description of the "New Moon" route

S. Cheterik on the R4–R5 section

First ascent impressions of "New Moon".

Early November, and it's warm outside — warm, you can even bask in the sun. But that's not the point. The purpose of the trip to Crimea was to make a first ascent on Ai-Petri. The organizer of all the ideas was Sergey Pugachev. For him, doing a first ascent is, in my opinion, a usual thing))), but for me it's a MEGa adventure! Five years ago, I dreamed of taking gear and climbing somewhere where no one had been before. The dream came true! The route starts to the left of the "grottos". To the right, under the beginning of the grottos, there's a good trail. Later, during the approach for processing, it's very beautiful to watch the sunrise from it. The beginning of the route is partially crumbling, some parts are climbed very well. I, of course, jumarred most of the route, but I got scared enough))). I want to climb it again, but this time all by myself, to feel what it was like for Sergey. So — see you on "New Moon". Chetyrnik Stanislav. Sergey Pugachev: I must say that "doing a first ascent" is not entirely an ordinary matter, although it has become familiar. There are two types of attitudes towards first ascents:

• do it for yourself; or do it faster, because it's a competition.

Eastern summit of Ai-Petri. Description of the route "Anomalous September"

The Eastern summit of Ai-Petri, clearly visible from the road, had been undeservedly forgotten for many years. Truly, a place for real adventures! And this year, it is again the center of attention for climbers. Three cool routes at once:

• route 1
• route 2
• route 3 Author: Sergey Pugachev

"Anomalous September", or nostalgia for the "Eyes".

Despite its loud name, the Eastern summit of Ai-Petri (1100 m) is perhaps the most unvisited mountain in Crimea. Most routes climbed back in the 70s had no second ascent. It seemed far away, there were no descriptions, and the rangers were harsh. However, here it is, the Eastern wall, clearly visible from the Yalta-Sevastopol highway. And from the cable car, it is simply magnificent. We (the Ukrainian national team) used to run along the Mishor trail, which goes to the yayla along the western edge of the wall, on winter training camps for many years. From the road, two red-yellow spots are visible on the left part of the wall. We called them "the Devil's Eyes". Despite the insistent recommendations of our coaches, no one dared to "give the devil his eyes". The wall was almost always snowy in winter. And it's high, and it's cold, and the next morning, you have to run along the trail in the snow again to the Main summit. (The elevation gain from the road to the Main summit is 1000 m. Note from someone who has run it many times).

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Belukha (V), 4506 m via the right part of the northwest wall (3rd passage, approximately 5B cat. sl.) by the team of the Altai Regional Sports Committee. Coaches: Plotnikov I.A. — Master of Sports of International Class, Kuznetsov N.A. — Candidate Master of Sports 1996 year

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Altai, Katunsky ridge, Akkem valley
3. Belukha (V) summit — 4506 m via the right part of the NW wall, combined route
4. Proposed — 5B cat. sl., 3rd passage
5. Height difference: 1306 m, total length — 1800 m