Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours.

From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.

From the ledge, ascend 12–15 m up difficult, steep rocks to a steep snowfield, then ascend 35 m straight up and traverse right to the base of a 110-meter pitch. From the snowfield, ascend left and upwards via difficult, smooth rocks of the pitch, in the direction of red, overhanging rocks (protection via pitons!). To the right of the red, overhanging rocks, exit onto the crest of the edge and ascend 70–75 m along the crest, right and upwards via broken rocks, to a steep (60–65°) slab of reddish color. Ascend 20–23 m up the slab, right and upwards (protection via pitons!). From the slab, ascend 50 m left and upwards via difficult rocks to a depression formed by the north-eastern edge and the eastern crest. Ascend 250–270 m up the right side of the depression via broken rocks, then exit onto the pre-summit crest via snow and continue to the summit. The journey from the horizontal ledge takes 7 hours.

For the remainder of the route, refer to the description of the Chotcha traverse.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The group size should not exceed 6 people.
2. The initial bivouac is located on the col beneath the north-eastern edge.
3. Departure time from the bivouac is 5:00 AM.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) 2 x 40 m main ropes; b) 4 m of auxiliary cord; c) 12–14 rock pitons; d) 2 rock hammers; e) 10–12 carabiners.
5. Possible bivouac sites: 1) initial bivouac; 2) on the horizontal ledge above the 130-meter wall; 3) on the summit; 4) on the saddle; 5) on the pre-summit crest of Zadnyaya Chotcha; 6) before the yellow rocks.