Photo 1. "Igla" massif - assault camp

Description of the ascent route to v. "Malaya Igla" via the western ridge (first ascent)

Group composition:

• Eliseev G.
• Kelikeldin G.
• Orlov N.
• Khokhryakov G. (leader) The "Malaya Igla" peak is located at the very beginning of the Zeravshan ridge (Pamir-Alai), approximately 0.5 km south of the "Igla" peak. The height of Malaya Igla is ~4200 m. To the west from the summit, a short ridge runs out, the northern slope of which is a steep avalanche-prone snowfield (ice at the top), the southern slope is a sheer rock face.

Route Description

Ascent to peak KALTSIT - 2A category of difficulty via the northwest ridge. From the base camp, cross the meadow with a rain gauge to the BIOB River. Cross the river and ascend on the right side of the couloir towards peak KALTSIT to a meadow with a snow-measuring marker. The beginning of the couloir is approximately 1 km from the confluence of the ARG and BIOB rivers. The upper part of the couloir leads to a narrow snow couloir in a small ridge adjacent to peak Kaltsit (Fig. 1). The slope of the snow in the lower part of the couloir is 20°, and in the upper part, it is 30°–45°. The length of the entire couloir is about 100 m. The passage through the couloir is done either on snow with mandatory piton belay on rocks or, in unfavorable snow conditions (hard snow, ice, little snow), on the left rocks with piton belay or via perms. The rocks are of medium difficulty. The time it takes to reach the base of the couloir from the base camp is about 2 hours. The mentioned couloir leads to a saddle. Then, move traversely left and upwards to a pyramidal snow patch with a characteristic rocky outcrop in the middle (Fig. 2). The slope of the snow patch in the lower part is 10°. Further, the slope increases to 30° (near the rocky outcrop). It is convenient to pass the snow patch along small rocky outcrops stretched in the direction of movement. Bypassing the rocky outcrop on the left, ascend to the upper part of the snow patch. Then, traverse right and upwards (2–3 ropes) on rocks of medium difficulty (piton belay or via ledges - outcrops) to the saddle (Fig. 2). The saddle is located to the left of a three-pronged rocky gendarme. From the saddle, traverse, bypassing the gendarme on the right, and move along the ridge to the summit. The exit to the summit is via a simple internal angle, broken from massive stone slabs. Throughout the path along the ridge, belay is done via outcrops.

5.36.

30a Kidzal, 3A cat. diff., Southwest Ridge, A. Petrov, 1979 38.

Ascent Record

1. Ascent type: Rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains
3. Kidzal, 4291 m, via Southwest Ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3A
5. Route description: Elevation gain 500 m, sections of 5th category difficulty 35 m, average steepness?
6. Pitons driven: rock, for belay: 5.
7. Duration: 7 hours from the bivouac under Anzak Pass.

Description of the ascent to the peak Krasnykh Zory (from the south, approximately) Peak Krasnykh Zory (4950 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the upper reaches of the Biiob river, in a spur extending in a southwest direction from the peak Bolshaya Ganza. The peak is rocky, almost without snow cover; ice is found in chimneys facing north. The rocks are heavily destroyed but have few cracks for driving in rock pitons. In the cracks, wedges are well used for belays. The first ascent to this peak was made "to Krasnye Zori" in 1937 by the Rigzel-Kavakova group from the north. In the note left by the pioneers, it is indicated that they consider it as a 3B category of difficulty route. We undertook an ascent from the south along the ridge. Approaches to the peak from Lake Iskander-Kul: up the Sarytog river, then along the Arg river, and then along the Biiob river to its upper reaches. It is better to spend the night before the pass, where there is water, firewood, and no wind. From the overnight site, we ascend along the dry riverbed through the moraine to the western ridge along easy but heavily destroyed rocks. We reach the southern ridge, bypassing several easy gendarmes on the right and left. The ascent to the southern ridge from the overnight site takes 3-4 hours. A note lies at the beginning of the route. The route can be divided into three sections:

1. from the start of the route to the first col;
2. from the first to the second col;
3. from the second col to the summit.

Recommendations and clarifications for ascending to the summit RED POINT via the East Ridge — 3–5 cat. difficulty. 0. The ascent to the ridge at the point of its significant lowering via snow ledges is clearly visible from below at the start of the route.

1. The slab in front of the grey pillar is bypassed on the left via a ledge-crevasse.
2. When bypassing the grey pillar on the right, it was necessary to cut 2–3 steps in the snow-ice slope.
3. A good platform /in the form of a practically horizontal slab on the ridge/ for overnight stay is available 30–45 minutes before reaching the grey pillar.
4. It's best to pass the gully with a plug in its upper part without backpacks.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent Class — Technical 2. Ascent Region — Fan Mountains 3. Peak — Moskva, 5183 m via the north wall through the hanging glacier 4. Anticipated Difficulty Category — 6B 5. Route Description: Total height difference — 1480 m. Characteristics of the wall section (rock and ice): height difference — 1290 m, including 131 m of ice wall, length — total — 1474 m, including 142 m of ice, sections of category V difficulty — 462 m, " — 15 m, category VI difficulty — 484 m, " — 95 m. Average steepness of the wall — 76°, including the lower

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Summit, its height, ascent route — Moscow-Zerafshanskaya peak, 5183 m, via the NNE wall, first ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B category.
5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain — 1383 m. elevation gain of the wall section — 1250 m. total route length — 2400 m. wall section length — 1530 m.

PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains (northern part). Imat valley.
3. Peak "Nezavisimosti Tadzhikistana" via the north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed as 2B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference 700 m, length 1100 m. Length of sections with category III complexity — 100 m, category II — 600 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons — 15, protection gear — 18, ice screws — 8.
7. Travel time — 10 hours.

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains (northern part). Imat Valley.
3. Peak "Nezavisimosti Tadzhikistana" via the Southwest ridge
4. Proposed 3A category, first ascent.
5. Height difference 600 m, length 750 m. Length of sections:

• Category III — 270 m
• Category II — 290 m

6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains (northern part). Imat Valley.
3. Peak "Independence of Tajikistan" via the Northwest Edge.
4. Proposed 5A category of difficulty. First ascent.
5. Height difference — 700 m, total route length — 850 m, length of the wall section — 660 m.
6. Hammered in rock hooks — 43 pcs. placed protection — 52 pcs.
7. Climbing hours — 15 hours.
8. Leader: Yuri Baikovsky, Master of Sports