SummitMate
@SummitMate
Route Description: кф. В стены
Report on the ascent to the summit of A. Blok via the buttress of the East wall in 2005.
Report.
On the ascent to the summit A. Blok (Eastern) 5150 m via the counterfort of the Eastern wall by the team 12 of the Sports Club Arysy SABO.
Team coach
E. T. Ilyinsky.
Team captain
2005 year 10. A-pix. 6–8/2–86. Lciozach 10.12. Su deca 0.24. Khanetstob 3.44.
845, 1096,
4 E / 401 41 / 95 86 / 12 60 / 82 а х а, 13 / 11 · 1 / 2, 1 / 2 su А, 20 рас, 3
пу
Route Description: С В стене
### First Ascent of Elok Vostochny via the North-Eastern Wall in the Pamir-Alay, Ak-su Valley A detailed analysis of the tactics and technical actions employed by the team during the climb. The route is rated 6th category of difficulty.
I. Technical Category
- Technical category
- Pamiro-Alay, Ak-su valley
- Blok Vostochny peak via the North-Eastern wall
- Proposed - 6B, first ascent.
- Height difference - 900 m, length - 1010 m. Length of 5-6B sections - 710 m. Length of 6B sections - 426 m. Average route steepness - 76°. Of which 6B (4280-4680 m) - 83°.
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolts | Ice screws | Rock chocks | Ice chocks | Ice pitons |
Route Description: С В стене
Ascent to the summit of Vost. A. Blok (5150 m) via the northwest wall and north ridge, category III, completed by a team from the Irkutsk mountaineering club in 1988.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Technical class.
- Pamir-Alay, Ak-Su valley.
- Mt. East A. Blok (5150 m), via northwestern wall and northern ridge.
- Category 5B, third ascent.
- Elevation gain 830 m. Average length 1008 m. Average slope 65°. Average wall slope 75°. Length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories 315 m.
- Pitons used: rock: 86/20 bolted: –
Route Description: СЗ стене и С гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit A. Block via the western wall with a detailed analysis of the sections and accompanying photographs.
Passport
- Class of ascent — technical.
- Region of ascent, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Ak-Su gorge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — East A.Block, 5150 m, via northwestern wall and northern ridge, combined.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
- Route characteristics:
- height difference — 830 m
- route length — 915 m
- wall section length — 590 m
- ridge section length — 325 m
Route Description: траверс
Traverse of the peaks A. Blok and Aksu in the Pamir Mountains, 6B climbing category, first ascent in 1987 by a group led by Evgeny Titkin.
Passport
- Traverse class
- Alay Range, Ak-Su valley, Pamir
- Traverse peak A. Blok (East) — A. Blok (Main) — peak 4600 m — Ak-Su (North) — Ak-Su (Main)
- Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
- Length — 10,230 m Length of sections with 5B–6B category of difficulty — 1040 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 61°, of which 6B category of difficulty — 85° (4600–4915)
- Pitons hammered: rock – 223, bolted – 0, chocks – 234, ice – 18. Additional: rock – 21, bolted – 0, chocks – 6, ice – 0.
- Team's walking hours — 103, days — 10
- Overnights — all overnights are bivouac, on the ridge
Route Description: С ребру
First ascent description of Peak Vizbor (4850 m) in the Turkestan Range via the North Edge, difficulty category 5B.
I. Climbing category: technical.
- Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
- Summit: 4850 m (Vizbor Peak) via the northern edge, combined.
- Estimated complexity category: 5A
- Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m; length of sections 5–6 c/tr — 190 m; average steepness of the route's rocky part — 55°.
- Pitons hammered: for belaying — 30 (6), chocks — 40.
- Duration: 20 hours.
- Camping: comfortable, on ridges — 2.
- Team members: Kavunenko Vladimir Dmitrievich — MSMK Grakovich Valentin Fedorovich — MS, Korolev Alexey Vladimirovich — CMS, Lisetsky Vladimir Anatolyevich — CMS
Route Description: С гребню
Description of a category 3A route to Peak Atabekova (4437 m) in the Pamir-Alay via the north ridge.
Ascent Record
- Technical category
- Pamir-Alay, Kara-Su gorge
- Peak 4437 m (Atabekova) via North Ridge, category 3A difficulty
- Height difference 210 m from the gendarme, distance 300 m from the gendarme, average steepness 45°, average steepness of the key section 60°
- Moving time 5–6 hours
- No overnight stops on the route
- Pitons driven - 6
- Leader: Pyshkin A. V. - 1st sports category Participants:
Route Description: В стене
Description of a category 2B route to the summit of Dомашняя in the Pamir-Alay, including detailed information on the approach, passage of the route, and descent.
Brief Description of the Approach to the Route
From the base camp, descend to the confluence of the Ak-su and Kara-su rivers and cross two bridges to a large meadow. It takes 1 hour from the base camp.
Then, proceed up the right gorge along the scree slopes of the Northeast ridge. Exit through a steep scree couloir to the saddle of the Northeast ridge under the base of the Northeast wall. Here, a tent can be set up on a scree shelf. It takes 3 hours from the base camp.
Map of the area. Route diagram. In UIAA symbols on p. Atabekova (4437) via N.E. wall 4A cat. diff. (landmark).
| Designation | Average steepness | Length m | Character of relief | Difficulty | Condition | Weather conditions | Rock | Bolts | Ice |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0–1 | 60 | 10 | Crack | 4- | Destroyed | Good | 1 | 1 |
Route Description: В стене
The ascent to Atabekova Peak (4437 m) via the North-East wall, category 4A, made in 1983 by a group of climbers led by Valentin Litskevich.
- The summit, its height, route — peak 4437 m (Atabekova peak) via the North-Eastern wall
- Estimated category of difficulty — 4A
- Characteristics of the route:
- Height difference: −450 m Length of sections:
- 5th category of difficulty: 30 m
- Steepness of the wall section: 55°
- Average steepness: 35°
- Total length of the route: 750 m
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Ascent to Peak 3900 m in the **Pamiro-Alai** via the North-West Ridge, Category II difficulty, covered in 5 walking hours.
- Rock class.
- Pamir-Alay, Akh-Su gorge.
- Peak 3900 m via North-West edge.
- Second ascent of category 3A difficulty, approximately.
- Height difference 400 m, average steepness 40°, length 790 m.
- Pitons driven — 8 pcs.
- Climbing hours — 5.
- No overnight stays on the route.
- Leader: Sytnyk D. N. — 1st sports category. Participants: Glushchenko A. A. — 1st sports category,