I. Technical Category

1. Technical category
2. Pamiro-Alay, Ak-su valley
3. Blok Vostochny peak via the North-Eastern wall
4. Proposed - 6B, first ascent.
5. Height difference - 900 m, length - 1010 m.

Length of 5-6B sections - 710 m. Length of 6B sections - 426 m. Average route steepness - 76°. Of which 6B (4280-4680 m) - 83°.

6. Pitons driven:

*) for bivouac organization

7. Team's total climbing hours - 47, days - 4.

Route processing - 7 hours.

8. Overnight stays: 1st - in hammocks. 2nd - two in hammocks, four lying on a ledge. 3rd - in tents on a ledge.

9. Team leader: Pogorelov Alexander Grigorievich - CMS.

Team members:

• Pyatnitsyn Alexander Alekseevich - CMS
• Selin Alexander Ivanovich - CMS
• Galagan Alexander Grigorievich - CMS
• Zernyshev Oleg Nikolaevich - CMS
• Gazarbekyan Arshak Georgievich - CMS

10. Coach: Shamraevsky Yuri Mikhailovich.
11. Route processing - September 16, 1985. Departure for the route - August 17, 1985. Summit - August 20, 1985. Return - August 21, 1985.

Photo 1. General photo of Blok Vostochny peak. August 21, 1985. 10:00. Lens "Helios-44", focal length 55 mm. Shooting height 4500 m, shot number 1. Distance to the object - 400 m.

• Route of the team from Rostov regional sports committee.
• Route of the team from Gorky regional sports committee (1983).

Photo # 2. Profile of the wall on the right. August 21, 1985. 11:30. Lens "Helios-44", focal length 55 mm. Distance to the object 600 m. Shooting point number 2. Shooting height 4600 m.

Team's Tactical Actions

The tactical plan for the ascent was mainly based on the results of our own observations and weather forecasts.

It took into account the following features of the chosen route:

1. The first half of the route is a monolithic sheer wall with a steepness of about 85°. Therefore, there are practically no good places for overnight stays.
2. The route is safe in terms of rockfall. Rockfall is only possible in the second half of the route from the North ridge when it is exposed to the sun.
3. The sun appears on the wall at 7:30 AM and leaves the lower part at 1:00 PM and the upper part around 2:00 PM.
4. The wall with 6B relief starts virtually from the 1st rope.
5. The weather forecast and time did not allow for warmth.
6. The chimney is filled with ice, and its passage will inevitably result in ice falling on those below.
7. The "thread" of the route in the lower part is straightforward, which will result in team members being positioned one above the other.

In light of this, the following measures and tactical actions were taken:

• Hammocks were taken for overnight stays.
• "Ice fifis" and ice chocks were used to pass the chimney with ice.

2. Passing section R4-R5 (according to the tactical map), where rockfall from the North ridge is possible after 2:00 PM when the sun leaves the ridge. (Fortunately, our concerns were unfounded, and there was no rockfall on this section).
3. Starting the route with 6B rock climbing allowed for preliminary processing.
4. Planning and organization when passing overnight stay locations under the shelter of overhanging rocks. (1st overnight stay under an overhanging "plug", 2nd and 3rd - on ledges under overhanging rocks).
5. Movement was organized so that the leaders did not work under those climbing on the fixed ropes, or at least worked on monolithic rock sections. (On August 17, the leaders went out of the lower part of the chimney and worked on the "plug". When processing the upper part of the chimney with ice, all participants were under the "plug" and started moving when the leaders exited the chimney).

In the chimney section where the protection points were exposed, the belayer hung their backpack above themselves and used it as cover.

6. The entire route was climbed by the first team on a double rope with a shock absorber.

Bad weather on August 19 complicated the ascent but did not affect the team's actions. To ensure reliable belays, intermediate pitons were driven more frequently. When moving on fixed ropes in bad weather, some jammers were replaced with "Bachmann" knots due to slippage.

When passing smooth slabs on sections R4-R9, pendulums were organized. "Krukonogi" were used to pass sections with artificial aids.

The team's movement was monitored visually with the naked eye and by radio for most of the ascent.

Communication with the alpine base is indicated on sheet 3.

Almost the entire route was climbed with fixed ropes organized according to the following interaction scheme between teams (see Fig. 1).

Fig. 1

Photo # 3. Photopanorama of the area. August 21, 1985. Lens "Helios-44". Focal length - 55 mm. Shooting height 4600 m, distance to the object 600 m. Shooting point:

• 23 - Efimov's route
• 4 - Ay gistov's route
• 1 - team's route
• 2 - route of the team from Gorky regional sports committee