Passport

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains (northern part). Imat Valley.
3. Peak "Nezavisimosti Tadzhikistana" via the Southwest ridge
4. Proposed 3A category, first ascent.
5. Height difference 600 m, length 750 m. Length of sections:

• Category III — 270 m
• Category II — 290 m

6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains (northern part). Imat Valley.
3. Peak "Independence of Tajikistan" via the Northwest Edge.
4. Proposed 5A category of difficulty. First ascent.
5. Height difference — 700 m, total route length — 850 m, length of the wall section — 660 m.
6. Hammered in rock hooks — 43 pcs. placed protection — 52 pcs.
7. Climbing hours — 15 hours.
8. Leader: Yuri Baikovsky, Master of Sports

Ascent Log

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains, Imat valley
3. Peak 4520 m (Peak of Independence of Tajikistan). Western wall.
4. Proposed 6A category. First ascent.
5. Height difference 860 m, length 1020 m.
6. Length of sections with V–VI category — 880 m, of which VI category — 590 m.
7. Average steepness — 74.6° Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 77.5°
8. Pitons driven:

The name of the Sbboric peak is local. Translated from Tajik, it means thin water. Apparently, the name was given to the peak due to a stream running down from the peak's snowfields into the Archa — Maidan river. The Obborik peak is located in the southwestern spur of the ridge, running from the Pushnovat peak. The peak has the form of rocky towers, from which a long ridge stretches westwards all the way to the confluence of the Archa-Maidan and Pushnovat rivers. From the Sbboric peak, the northern slopes of the Dukhsar massif are clearly visible.

Description of the ascent

On August 23, 1963, at 7:60, the group left the base camp, crossed the Pushnovat river, and ascended the grassy slopes to the beginning of the long ridge leading to the peak. This ascent took 40 minutes.

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains (northern part). Imat Valley.
3. Eastern peak of "Paltsy" via the North-West ridge.
4. Proposed 2A category of complexity. First ascent.
5. Height difference 300 m. Length 500 m.
6. Length of sections — 1 category. 210 m. Pitons driven:

• rock — 2
• chockstones — 3
• ice screws — 1.

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alai. Fann Mountains. Imat valley.
3. Peak "Pamyati druzey"
4. Proposed 2B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 250 m, length 400 m. Length of sections:
   • III category of difficulty — 45 m
   • II category of difficulty — 290 m
6. 5 pitons driven, 7 chocks placed.

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat valley.
3. Patrush peak.
4. Proposed 1B category of difficulty. First ascent.
5. Height difference 200 m. Length of sections: 2nd category of difficulty – 150 m 1st category of difficulty – 400 m
6. Pitons not used.
7. Moving time – 2.5 hours
8. Group members: Baykovsky Yu.V., Gupalov A.

Ascent to the summit of Pila (4600 m) 25 c.d. SC

via the northwest ridge The summit of Pila, 4600 m high, is located in a ridge running north of the Lupdon pass. The route along the ridge is almost entirely rocky. There are very small sections of firn. The ridge is sharp, rocky, and consists of a series of pronounced "mandarins." The summit had remained unconquered until recently.

Descent after ascent

The group left the base camp at 12:00, heading towards the Lupdon pass. The approach to the pass takes 3 hours. Before reaching the pass point, we turn left. From there, the ascent begins via a wide, scree-filled couloir. The steepness of the couloir is 30°. The snow is hard and compacted in the lower part, and very loose and fine in the upper part of the couloir. The couloir ends at the ridge. The ascent via the couloir takes 3 hours. At the pass point on the ridge, we find a cairn. A note from climbers from "Varzob" camp is retrieved. Elevation: 4200 m. We set up a night's stay. At 7:00, we start on the route. Along a gentle snow slope, we reach the beginning of the local ridge leading to the summit in 10 minutes. The start of the route is very monolithic - rocks with convenient handholds. Two ropes along moderately difficult rocks - and we're on the ridge. Belay via outcrops. Just below the ridge, to the left of it, we advance another two ropes. We climb in turns with belay via outcrops. With top rope, we descend 10 m down a large rock (1 piton), and then back up to the sharp ridge. The ascent along the ridge at this point is only possible by crawling (20 m, 2 pitons). Careful belay is necessary. To the left and right - sheer walls. Further along the ridge, several rocks lead to "mandarin" #1. The "mandarin" should be bypassed from the right. Here, there's a long (40 m) inclined ledge, above which rocks overhang. Movement is only possible while crouching, and in some places - crawling. 3 pitons are hammered in at this section.

«Landari» No.2 is bypassed by unsecured climbing. Further along the ridge, there is a steep (60–70°) ascent (2 ropes, 3 pitons). After the ascent, we approach the faceted «handarm» No.3. «Landari» is bypassed from the left along narrow sheer ledges and partially on snow (150 m). The ledges lead into the base of the inner corner (60 m). Climbing is of medium difficulty (2 pitons). There are many loose stones in this area. After the corner, we reach the shoulder before the large gray «handarm» No.4. The ascent to this point took 6 hours. To the right of the «handarm», we ascend a steep oval couloir (20 m) and enter a passage between the rocky walls. Along the right wall (70°), we reach the ridge between «handarms» 4 and 5. 3 pitons are driven into the wall (40 m). From the ridge, we begin moving along a chimney — difficult, using friction, spreading, and jamming of limbs (3 pitons). The chimney leads to smooth slabs on the right side of «handarm» 5. The steepness is 50–55°. The slabs have a horizontal crack along which we pass this section (2 pitons). After the slabs:

• we continue to bypass «Handarm» 5 from the right along rocks of medium difficulty,
• after which we reach the ridge between «Handarms» 5 and 6,
• along a narrow ledge, we traverse «Handarm» 6 from the left to a chimney with an overhang and a ring at the top (0 m). Climbing is difficult, especially at the top (2 pitons). The chimney leads to the top of «Handarm» 6. From «handarm» No.6, we organize a belay down the rope (30 m) for the changeover using the «handarm» No.6 and the summit tower. Movement along the changeover is along narrow ledges with snow. Then, a vertical crevice (12 m) leads to the pre-summit ridge. Further movement to the summit is simultaneous. The path from the shoulder of «handarm» No.4 to the summit took 4.5 hours.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PUSHNOVAT-1 PEAK FROM PUSHNOVAT SADDLE (ORIENTED 3A)

Pushnovat-1 peak (4573 m) is located in the Fann Mountains in the upper reaches of the Pushnovat River, a tributary of the Archa-Maydan River, in the ridge that runs north from the Dukdon pass to the Sugar Head peak. Pushnovat-1 peak is one of the peaks of the Pushnovat cirque (see diagram). The peak is almost completely covered in snow and ice. Rocks are cleared of ice only at the highest points and on sheer walls. The snow line is at an altitude of 4000 m above sea level. The glacier is generally without crevasses. Two major crevasses are encountered on the route. There is snow on the glacier only after the second bergschrund near the exit to the summit. The rocks are monolithic. No significant destruction is noticeable. There are very few cracks for pitons. The most logical path to the summit is from the Pushnovat saddle, located in the ridge between the Pushnovat pass and Pushnovat-1 peak. The approach to the peak is along the Archa-Maydan River, on a good trail, then up the Pushnovat River. The base camp is above the confluence of the Sugar River with the Pushnovat River, near a large boulder (3360 m). Further on the trail leading to the Pushnovat pass, to the couloir to the Pushnovat saddle, the couloir is filled with snow. Steepness is 30–35°. Height 4200 m. From the saddle, a rise to the south along the snow-ice ridge to a group of rocks (4270 m), forming a gentle platform. The platform is convenient for a tent. From here, you can ascend all four Pushnovat peaks. The ascent can be divided into three stages: