Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Region 3. Ascent Route with indication of peaks and their heights 4. Characteristics of the Ascent technically challenging route (Pamir-Alay) p.S. Andreeva from the northwest via bastion 5127 m a) height difference 1200 m including bastion wall 620 m b) average steepness (including ridge) 74° c) average steepness of the bastion wall 88° d) length of the most difficult sections 1000 m 5. Number of pitons hammered: rock 209, ice 7, bolt 13

Passport

1. Category of wall climbing
2. Turkestan Range, Minteke gorge
3. Peak 4708 m (Bastille) via the right part of the NW wall “pillar”
4. First ascent, proposed category 6B
5. Height difference: 628 m, length — 650 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 590 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route — 83°. Average steepness of the route — 76°
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts (Friends) | | :--: | :--: | :-------------: |

The route starts from a saddle on the north ridge, named Pervovoschoditelnaya ver. “Kristelnый” (scree on the pass contains many marble crystals). The ascent to this 3600 m pass takes about 3 hours from the base camp: go upstream along the Kshonny river, just below the confluence - cross the river over a bridge and ascend into a lateral gorge, leaving a stream canyon on the left (see fig. 1). Below the pass - on a green ledge, on the left slope of the lateral gorge. From the pass, traverse a 200 m snowfield (40° steepness, simultaneous movement). It requires 250 m of slabby rocks and a descent to a rocky saddle to the right of the axis. Hакdaри is bypassed to the right, down via ledges (4–5 ropes, pitons) and then up into a gap between the peak Линим, Хакдари, and the ridge. Here is a cairn. Ascent to a rocky ridge below a marble belt (fig. I–I, additional 2 ropes), rockfall hazard. Up the ridge, then ascent to a destroyed ledge. Protection through rock protrusions. Along an inclined rocky ledge to the right, 1 rope (belay on rock horns). We approach a slot-like wall (1 rope) made of destroyed marble. This is one of the key sections of the route. We exit below

связка: social angle (not avalanche-prone) detour to the angle on the shelf to the right? Further — up the destroyed rocks (50 m, steepness 55–60°), then along the inclined shelf 8 m (cold rock) — exit to the ice couloir. Up the couloir I rope (45°), traverse to the right on the ice (fig. I-2) — to a short edge under the characteristic rock "tooth" (ice cliffs, chopping steps, digging). Second overnight stay. Immediately from the overnight stay, traverse to the right and up 50–60 m along rocks of medium difficulty (pitons). Further, three ropes with belay through ledges with exit to the ridge (“live” stones). The ridge is straightforward — 200 m. From here under the «ём (fig. I–3) along the wall (I rope of difficult climbing), then two ropes of very difficult rocks (14 pitons) and along the rocky couloir exit to the ridge. This is the second key section of the route.

Another rope is needed on the snow-ice section, which turns into the cupola of the forepeak — 5270 m. 10 hours from the second overnight stay. From the forepeak, a 10 m descent and then simple rocks, followed by a snowpatch, lead to the ascent to the summit (fig. 1–6). Descent follows the ascent route down to the pass. From the ridge down into the left gorge along the middle axis down to the canyon. Further down to the left onto the ridge's northwest spur. From the ridge, descend along the fine scree and the Ksheshi river and along the right (geographical) side of the river down to the small bridge near the kettle, then along the trail to the base camp. 8–10 hours from the initial overnight stays. Recommendations for climbers.

1. Number of participants — 4 people
2. Time of departure from camp — first half of the day.
3. Places for picketing bivouacs — below the pass, in the couloir, in the depression between the forepeak and the summit, and in places indicated in the description.
4. Equipment — main rope 2×40 m, auxiliary rope 1×40 m, expendable reepschnur — 1×10 m, rock pitons — 20 pcs, non-withdrawable pitons — 7 pcs, rock hammers — 2 pcs, carabiners — 12–15 pcs, ice screws — 4 pairs, tent — 1 pc.

a. ° BO­EI²⁻³³⁸⁰ m

8. Peak "25 лет Народной Польши" - 5207 m - via "Belyi Koni" mandarin 5A cat. diff. July 24, 1969 Kazimierz Głazek Tadeusz Piórowski Krzysztof Cieluch Bogdan Jankowski From "Polskie Noczowki" (see section for route description to "Polskie Noczowki") ascent via "Belyi Koni" mandarin (through snowy-ice fields, left ridge - 2 ropes on firm snow and 1 rope on ice) - exit to rocky ridge. Climb 40 m on mandarin summit via crumbling talus with icing. Then sporty descent to the saddle behind the mandarin. From here:

• two ropes on crumbling rocky ridge with icing (steepness up to 70°),
• small ascent with ladder usage,
• further 50 m to the next ascent on similar ridge,
• traverse right and up about 20 m on practically sheer ice wall (live rocks),
• then 30 m of iced slabs with steepness up to 45° under big ridge ascent. Left, the ridge drops with vertical rock walls to Ak-Terek glacier, right of the ridge - iced slabs with steepness up to 50°.

8. Peak "25 lat PRL" - 5207 m - via "Biały Koń" mandala 5A category July 24, 1969. Kazimierz Głazek, Tadeusz Pióro, Krzysztof Cieluszeck, Bogdan Jankowski From "Polskie Namioty" (for the route description to "Polskie Namioty" see the section) - ascent via "Biały Koń" mandala (through snowy-icy fields on the left ridge - 2 ropes on thin snow and 1 rope on ice) - exit to the rocky ridge. Climb 40 m to the top of the mandala on shattered rocks with flow ice. Then a sporting descent to the saddle behind the mandala. From here:

• two ropes on a shattered rocky ridge with flow ice (steepness up to 70°),
• a small ascent with the use of étriers,
• then 50 m to the next ascent on a similar ridge,
• traverse right and ascent on an almost sheer icy wall (live rocks) about 20 m upwards,
• then 30 m of icy slabs with steepness up to 45° under a big ridge ascent. On the left, the ridge drops with vertical rocky walls to the Akterek Glacier, on the right of the ridge - icy slabs with steepness up to 50°.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE "GLAVNAYA IGLA" SUMMIT VIA THE SOUTHEAST SLOPE. 1969 Group composition: GLADILIN L.S. (leader), RUDNEV V.S., ABLESIMOV V.E., GITERMAN B.P. The Iglá summit is located in the Pamir-Alay mountains, at the junction of the:

• Alay range,
• Turkestan range,
• Zeravshan range (see diagram 1). The Iglá summit (see diagram 2, photo 1) is a massif consisting of three peaks, conditionally named:

Description of the Ascent Route to Peak 4350 "Malaia Igla" via the Southeast Ridge

/First ascent/

Group Composition:

1. Rudnev V.S. — leader
2. Malykhin Yu.M. — coach
3. Egorov L.A.
4. Zhelonkin E.F.
5. Pavlovsky E.S.
6. Sofronov I.D.