Passport
- Rock climbing category
- Pamir-Alai. Fann Mountains. Imat valley.
- Peak "Pamyati druzey"
- Proposed 2B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Height difference 250 m, length 400 m.
Length of sections:
- III category of difficulty — 45 m
- II category of difficulty — 290 m
- 5 pitons driven, 7 chocks placed.
- Moving time 3 hours
- Team members: Baykovsky Yuri Viktorovich MS Moskovkin Andrey Vitalyevich II
- Coach: Baykovsky Yu.V. MS 1st sports category
- Ascent made on September 1, 1993.
- Organization: State Committee for Physical Culture and Sports of the Republic of Tajikistan. Association of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Travel of Tajikistan
General view of the peak from the Northwest.
Route diagram in UIAA symbols
Route description by sections
The route starts from the saddle between the peaks Bashnya and Pamyati druzey. The approach from the shepherd's summer camps takes 2 hours. From the saddle, descend to the right — 50 m to a clearly visible inner corner of light color. This is the start of the route.
The route length is 400 m, height difference is 250 m. The route is ridge-like, logical.
Section R0–R1. Ascend 15 m up the clearly visible inner corner in the ridge (difficult) to reach the eastern side of the ridge.
Section R1–R2. Move left and up 120 m along a series of:
- "ram's foreheads" covered with sand,
- ledges,
- short walls. Reach the ridge.
Section R2–R3. Follow the ridge towards the peak. Protection using rock features. The rocks are not difficult. The ridge leads to a saddle, from which the steepness of the rocks increases. Section length is 120 m.
Section R3–R4. This part of the route goes through the pre-summit bastion. Piton protection. Move up 50 m, cross to the northern side of the ridge.
Section R4–R5. From the northern side of the ridge, the peak is visible, which consists of two equal-height towers.
Move towards the saddle between the towers 30 m. Climbing is difficult. Loose rocks are present. The farther tower is 1 m higher.
A cairn is built on the northern side of the tower, 2 m from the peak. Since the top of the tower is very small in area and cannot fit two climbers, the cairn is built at a convenient location.
Descent from the peak is via the ascent route. Ascent and descent take 2.5 hours.