Ascent to the summit of Pila (4600 m) 25 c.d. SC

via the northwest ridge

The summit of Pila, 4600 m high, is located in a ridge running north of the Lupdon pass. The route along the ridge is almost entirely rocky. There are very small sections of firn. The ridge is sharp, rocky, and consists of a series of pronounced "mandarins." The summit had remained unconquered until recently.

Descent after ascent

The group left the base camp at 12:00, heading towards the Lupdon pass. The approach to the pass takes 3 hours. Before reaching the pass point, we turn left. From there, the ascent begins via a wide, scree-filled couloir. The steepness of the couloir is 30°. The snow is hard and compacted in the lower part, and very loose and fine in the upper part of the couloir. The couloir ends at the ridge. The ascent via the couloir takes 3 hours. At the pass point on the ridge, we find a cairn. A note from climbers from "Varzob" camp is retrieved. Elevation: 4200 m. We set up a night's stay.

At 7:00, we start on the route. Along a gentle snow slope, we reach the beginning of the local ridge leading to the summit in 10 minutes. The start of the route is very monolithic - rocks with convenient handholds.

Two ropes along moderately difficult rocks - and we're on the ridge. Belay via outcrops.

Just below the ridge, to the left of it, we advance another two ropes. We climb in turns with belay via outcrops. With top rope, we descend 10 m down a large rock (1 piton), and then back up to the sharp ridge. The ascent along the ridge at this point is only possible by crawling (20 m, 2 pitons). Careful belay is necessary. To the left and right - sheer walls. Further along the ridge, several rocks lead to "mandarin" #1. The "mandarin" should be bypassed from the right. Here, there's a long (40 m) inclined ledge, above which rocks overhang. Movement is only possible while crouching, and in some places - crawling. 3 pitons are hammered in at this section.