The name of the Sbboric peak is local. Translated from Tajik, it means thin water. Apparently, the name was given to the peak due to a stream running down from the peak's snowfields into the Archa — Maidan river.
The Obborik peak is located in the southwestern spur of the ridge, running from the Pushnovat peak.
The peak has the form of rocky towers, from which a long ridge stretches westwards all the way to the confluence of the Archa-Maidan and Pushnovat rivers.
From the Sbboric peak, the northern slopes of the Dukhsar massif are clearly visible.
Description of the ascent
On August 23, 1963, at 7:60, the group left the base camp, crossed the Pushnovat river, and ascended the grassy slopes to the beginning of the long ridge leading to the peak. This ascent took 40 minutes.
Further on, the grassy ridge is interrupted by sections of rocks, which are either circumvented or overcome on the left side. Gradually, the grassy slopes give way to scree. The encountered easy, crumbling rocks are overcome by traversing with gymnastic belay.
We approach the pre-summit rocks along the scree ridge. The ascent along the ridge took 3 hours. Further movement towards the peak was done in rope teams. The ascent up the rocks begins along a scree-filled couloir with sections of snow. We ascend the couloir up to a large inclined rock slab about 30 m long. The slab is overcome by "davanie" (a type of rock climbing technique) with the use of a handrail.
Then, along moderately difficult rocks with alternating belay, through ledges, we reach a rocky saddle. From the saddle, along moderately difficult rocks with the use of handrails, we ascend to the summit of Sbboric (4113 m).
We build a cairn and leave a note. Time: 13:00. After spending 30 minutes on the summit, we begin our descent along the ascent route. We return to the base camp at 16:00.
Conclusion on the route
The route is purely rocky, so it's better to tackle it in boots with rubber soles. The group had the following equipment on the route:
- 3 main ropes, 40 m each
- 3 ice axes
- several rock pitons
- a hammer (not used)
The ascent took 9 hours. The height gain from the camp to the summit was about 1500 m. The group assessed