Klabo — a technical route in the Pamir-Alay mountain system, the northern spurs of the Alay Ridge, the Gumush gorge, the West Gumush peak, height — 5200 m above sea level, along the center of the north face (S. Efimov's route). Classified as 5B category of difficulty (official), proposed — 6 category of difficulty. Main characteristics of the route:

• Length — 1400 m
• Height difference — 1100–1200 m
• Average steepness — 70°–75°
• Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 875 m Number of pitons hammered and placement elements used:
• Placement elements — 63
• Rock pitons — 58
• Ice pitons — 120

Passport

I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alay, Gaumysh valley 3. Peak 5200 (Gaumysh) 4. 5B category of difficulty 5. Elevation gain — 1100 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 990 m, including 580 m of 6 category. Average steepness 75–80°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 55 + XXXI, ice — 88 + XXI, bolt — V, chockstones — 20 + III. 7. Travel time: 46.5 hours 8. Overnights:

п. Дружбы 5196 When choosing the route, safe approaches to it were studied, and reconnaissance of the approach was carried out. Since the ridge is a smooth monolithic rock, alternating with heavily destroyed ones, we took several large loops (Ø up to 1 m) to organize insurance points by throwing them on very large ledges, which justified itself very well. And also full sets of nuts and "friends" were taken, which is irreplaceable on such relief. The complexity of the relief made it necessary to rely on the work of the first participant without a backpack. The remaining participants climbed up the ropes with top rope. To provide the leader with pitons and nuts, the second participant cleaned the route from pitons as much as possible. On easy sections of the route, the first participant went with a light backpack. By the end of the first day of the route, it started raining with snow, so in the morning of the second day everything was covered with a small layer of snow. On the first overnight stay on a rubble inclined shelf, ropes were organized, fixed on ice screws that passed through the tent. All participants spent the night in harnesses and on self-arrest. Observers (MS Boyko V., CMS Lebedev M., doctor Valikov E.) were staying overnight near the glacier, from where the route was almost entirely visible. Regular radio communication (at least 2 times a day) was maintained with groups in the Gaumysh gorge and through them with the base camp in the Alaudin gorge. ¹

First ascent of the route to Peak Karaganda Northern (elevation 4800)

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Spur of the Guamysh ridge Alaysky district
3. Peak Karaganda Northern, W. slope
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B The route is snow-ice
5. Height difference — 780 m, length of sections: 4th category — 100 m, 3rd category — 700 m, 2nd category — 380 m. Average steepness of the route — 40°
6. Driven insurance hooks: Rock — 1, Ice — 7

1. Climbing category — technically challenging.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge.
3. Climbing route indicating peaks and altitudes: Peak 4700 m. East wall. Via altimeter — 4850 m.
4. Climbing description: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 63°, length of sections with 5B category of difficulty — 450 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 74 for belay, 10 for creating anchor points; ice and bolt pitons — none.
6. Total travel hours — 21.
7. Number of overnight stays and their description: one sitting bivouac on an inclined ledge for four people. Belay on pitons.
8. Team name — LGS DSO "SPARTAK".
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification: Zhukov Sergey Yakovlevich — Candidate for Master of Sports, leader.

Moscow Region Championship 1983 /technical class/ ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Area: Gamuysh gorge, Pamir-Alay.
2. Peak — Karaganda North (4800 m) via the left edge of the East wall
3. Difficulty category — 5B combined
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 65–70°, section length — 800 m, grade U–U1
5. Pitons and other gear. Total: rock, nuts, hanging cams, ice screws, incl. AID: 144, 70, 65, 8, 1, 8.
6. Climbing hours: 37 for the ascent (route traverse)

Ascent Certificate

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — PAMIR-ALAI, Guamysh ridge 3. Peak 4800 (Karaganda North), East wall 4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 800 m;
• route length — 5 km, technical difficulty — 700 m;
• average steepness — 75°

6. Number of pitons and anchor placements:

5.1.278 5.1.Б. 14 58 4/n.i.8. IR. 531 13.2.83 LENINGRAD CLIMBING FEDERATION 5.1.3.13 REPORT on the ascent of the Leningrad Regional Council SDSO "Burevestnik" team to Mt. SEVERNAYA KARAGANDA, 4800 m via the center of the north wall Vasiliev B. P. Barulin B. A. Beilin Yu. I. Belyaev L. N. Karol A. I. 8–11/08-83

Route profile. View from the Martynov — Levchenko route Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

Central Council of the Spartak Sports Society

Krasnoyarsk Regional Council of the Spartak Sports Society

Karaganda South — 4850 m

Left part of the East Face

First Ascent

Approximately Category 5B difficulty. Team Captain: Rodikov A.P., Candidate Master of Sports. Team Coach: Semenyuk V.D., Master of Sports of the USSR. Krasnoyarsk, 1981

Map of the Gaumysh Valley