M. 12.09.2000 № 115 ASCENT PASSPORT. №8,9

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. V.V. DVS — Krylya Sovetov, via the southern couloir of the North-Eastern ridge, traverse.
3. Category 3B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is ice-snow.
5. Height difference 500 m, length 4000 m, average steepness of the main part 40°.
6. Pitons used: ice screws — 4.
7. Team's travel time 6 hours.

PASSPORT

1. Region — Altai, spurs of the North-Chuya ridge, Karakabak gorge
2. Peak — Zhukov Georgy (3500 m)
3. Route — Cat. III, SW slope, first ascent
4. Height difference — 450 m Route steepness 35°. Protection via ledges
5. Climbing hours — 6.5 h from the lakes
6. Group composition: Vlasov V.A. — Master of Sports Onishchenko V.P. — International Master of Sports

Passport

1. Category — first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. G. Zhukov Peak via north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category 3B (first ascent).
5. Height 3100 m, elevation gain 550 m, length 1100 m, average slope 30°.
6. Pitons — 9 wired cams.
7. Climbing time 11 hours (from camp to camp).
8. No need for overnight stay.
9. Team: Drakin A. V. — Candidate Master of Sports

54 17

Ascent

To the peak of Zelinsky via the eastern counterfort of the northern ridge (approximately route 4A category of difficulty). Completed by a group of climbers from the Altai Regional Federation of Alpinism expedition. Group leader — A.A. Parshennikov. 2. V.S. Bunyaeva. 3. N.A. Kuznetsov. 4. L.I. Salmashkov. 1000 m, 50°, 18 rock pitches, 16 hours.

INTRODUCTION

Ascents 2428

1. Class of Ascent: Rocky.
2. Area of Ascent, ridge: Central Altai. North-Tuy­sky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, route of Ascent: **P. Zelinsky 3500 m northern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference: 1000 m. Length of sections: 5–6 c.t.: 200 m. Average steepness: 50-60%.
6. Number of piton drivenforbelay: Rock.
7. Number of travel hours:16–17 hrs.

p. Zeyinskogo

Passport

1. Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, section number according to KMGV — 1.2.
2. Peak — Kapitsa P.L. Peak (3720 m), according to CF S3
3. Proposed category 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference of the route 700 m Route length M Length of sections: difficulty category M, difficulty category M

Passport

1. Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, KMGV section number — 1.2.
2. Summit — Pik Kapitsy P.L. (3720 m), category 3B.
3. Proposed category — 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference 700 m (by altimeter). Route length m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty m, VI category of difficulty m. Average slope: main part of the route — degrees, whole route — degrees.
6. Approach to the key point in crampons, belay through rock formations, 1 rock anchor hammered.

1.2.18

Description of the First Ascent of the Left Buttress of the Eastern Peak of Karagem-bash (August 7-11, 1965)

The Karagem-bash peak (3972 m) is located in the central ridge of the North-Chuya Mountains of the Altai. The massif of this peak, stretching in the latitudinal direction, bounds one of the largest glaciers of the Altai - the Maashey Glacier (10 km long, 15 km² in area) from the south. To the west of Karagem-bash, in the same ridge, stands the massif of the Maashey peak (4250 m), which is the highest point of the North-Chuya Alps. To the east, the ridge from the Karagem-bash peak goes to the Tammy peak, from where it turns north to the Maashey Pass. To the south from the peak descend numerous extensive glaciers, giving rise to the Karagem River. To the north (towards the Maashey Glacier), the Karagem-bash peak is cut off by a one-and-a-half-kilometer wall. From the ice cap of the peak to the north hang seracs, separated by steep rocky buttresses. The falls of these seracs occur along the lower sections of these buttresses, where they are less steep. The Left Buttress has a northern aspect and is lit by the sun in its lower part approximately from 10:00. To the right of the buttress pass routes of 5B category of difficulty along the northern walls:

• the eastern peak of Karagem-bash
• the western peak of Karagem-bash. The reconnaissance of the route and its study were conducted by the group during a separate trip to the upper reaches of the Maashey gorge. The path taken fully coincided with the planned one. The group considered that the route should be 5B category of difficulty, but it turned out to be more difficult due to the upper part, which was poorly visible from below.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF THE EASTERN SUMMIT OF Karagem-bash (July 18-20, 1962) 5B cat. diff. The Karagem-bash peak (3972 m) is located in the central ridge of the North-Chuya mountain range of the Altai Mountains. The massif of this peak, stretching in the latitudinal direction, limits one of the largest glaciers of the Altai - the Maashai Glacier (length 10 km, area 15 km²) from the south. To the west of Karagem-bash in the same ridge stands the massif of the Maashai peak (4250 m), which is the highest point of all the North-Chuya Alps. To the east, the ridge from the Karagem-bash peak goes to the Tammas peak, from where it turns north to the Maashai pass. Numerous extensive glaciers descend from the peak to the south, giving rise to the Karagem River. To the north (to the Maashai Glacier), the Karagem-bash peak breaks off with a one-and-a-half-kilometer wall. Icefalls hang from the icy cap of the peak to the north, separated by steep rocky buttresses. The collapses of these icefalls occur along the lower sections of these buttresses, where they are less steep. The wall has a northern exposure and is illuminated by the sun for only a few hours a day (during the ascent - from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.). The wall leading to the western peak was climbed in 1956 by a group led by V.S. Andreev. The route was classified as 5B cat. diff. The object of this ascent was the wall leading to the eastern peak of Karagem-bash and separated in the upper part from the route of V.S. Andreev's group by a cap of icefalls hanging from the peak. The entire Karagem-bash wall is clearly visible from the Maashai valley, which this peak closes.