Moscow Region Championship 1983
/technical class/
ASCENT DOCUMENT.
- Area: Gamuysh gorge, Pamir-Alay.
- Peak — Karaganda North (4800 m) via the left edge of the East wall
- Difficulty category — 5B combined
- Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 65–70°, section length — 800 m, grade U–U1
- Pitons and other gear. Total: rock, nuts, hanging cams, ice screws, incl. AID: 144, 70, 65, 8, 1, 8.
- Climbing hours: 37 for the ascent (route traverse) July 21, 1983 — 2 hours approach to the cirque below the peak July 22 — 13 hours July 23 — 12 hours July 24 — 12 hours July 25 — 6 hours descent to base camp. Weather mostly good. July 24 from 14:00 to 17:00 — thunderstorm, snow. First to work on the route: Starikov, Lebedev, Pogodin.
- Three bivouacs: 1st — lying in a tent on a snowy area, 2nd — half-reclining on rocky ledges, separately, 3rd (on descent) — two climbers half-reclining, 4th — lying in a tent.
- Team composition: Starikov G.A. — Candidate Master of Sport, team leader Klishchev O.P. — 1st sports category Lebedev M.V. — 1st sports category Lelyakova I.V. — 1st sports category Pogodin B.S. — 1st sports category Pepkin V.L. — 1st sports category
- Team coach — Korsun A.G., Master of Sport of the USSR. Ascent completed exactly as described.
