Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Western Caucasus, Kichkinekol gorge.
3. Peak "Dalar", via the northern wall, Snesarev's route.
4. Third ascent — Category 5B difficulty.
5. Elevation gain — 895 m, length — 1050 m. Length of sections: Category 6 difficulty — 570 m. Average steepness of the route is 75°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock — 250
   • bolted — 5 (x)

Dalar Maly from Dalar Pass, rock, 2B

Route Description:

From Dalar Pass, go left along the ridge's ruined rocks, keeping to the right side, to the first ridge ascent. Climb 30 m to the left onto a wide ridge made of blocks and slabs. Along the 150-meter ridge, then along the wide ridge scree, overcoming the second ridge ascent, approach the first gendarme. Be cautious when bypassing R0–R4, especially if the slabs are covered with snow. Then reach the saddle, bypass the second gendarme and the "Per'ya" gendarme on the right; further, on the right, along the 10-meter wall of the "Shakhmatny kon'" gendarme (when transitioning from the ledge to the wall R12 — loose rocks!) ascend to the "Stolb" gendarme. Bypass "Stolb" along the inclined ledges on the right (water, loose rocks!). From the saddle behind "Stolb", along the ledges to the right of the ridge, reach the summit. From the bivouac on the pass to the summit — 4–6 hours. Descent — along the ascent path to the saddle before the first gendarme R5. From here, go left-down along the scree couloir and scree ledges to the base of the ridge from the southern side. Traverse the base of the ridge to reach Dalar Pass. From the summit — 2.5 hours.

• Departure time from bivouac — 6:00;
• if the descent couloir and subsequent ledges are heavily snow-covered, return to Dalar Pass along the ascent route. DALAR (view from the south)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route: Maly Dalar peak, 3500 m — via the southern counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 50–55°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock 37 pcs., ice 0, bolted 0. for creating RTO (Relay and Belay Point): 1 pc., 0, 0.
7. Number of travel hours: 7 hours.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus from Klukhor Pass to Chipperazau Pass 3. Peak — Vostochnaya Dvoynyashka, 3830 m 4. Estimated difficulty category — 5A 5. Route character — combined 6. Route characteristics: a) height difference 840 m b) length of sections with 4th cat. diff. 340 m c) length of sections with 5th cat. diff. 320 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock II. Ascent area - W. Caucasus from Klukhor Pass to Azau Pass. III. Peak - Dvoynyshka 3830 m. East peak. IV. Proposed difficulty category - 5A V. Route character - combined. VI. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 940 m.
• route length - 1490 m.
• incl. snow-ice sections - 1150 m.

To the championship of Moscow 1973 TWIN PEAKS VIA NORTH-NORTH-WEST FACE 5B cat. dif. (Western Caucasus) Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering Team of Moscow City Council of Spartak Volunteer Sports Society Kavunenko V.D. — Master of Sports of the USSR — team leader Parfenov V.P. — Candidate for Master of Sports Pozdnyakov A.A. — 1st sports category Ivanov N.V. — 1st sports category July 18–24, 1973

To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation Western Dvoynyashka peak via the south-eastern wall, category 5B, first ascent Team from Krasnoyarsk "Spartak" Coach: MS ROZHKOV V.V. VLODARCHIK N.G. - team leader Team members:

• ROZHKOV V.V.
• VORONKOV D.A.
• PRUSAKOV S.M.

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION.

Report

ON THE ASCENT OF V. DVONYASHKA WEST VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE. CATEGORY 5B. SECOND ASCENT RSFSR TEAM 650, 1050 gr., 500, 79°, 58 vsk, 18 sm, 1/2, 2/6, 88 zam. 21 hours, 2 days. Balkin S.G., Baezin V.V., Bogachev A.V., Bogomaz V.V., Zakharov N.N., Chentsov S.V. (Kr-n) February 6-7, 1983.

Category II Ascent

I. Rock Class. 2. Western Caucasus. 3. Dvoynyashka Zap. peak, 3743 m, via 10В wall, second ascent. 4. Category of difficulty — 5Е. 5. Height difference — 650 m, total route length — 1050 m, length of sections with 5 — 6 category of difficulty — 500 m. Average steepness — 78° 6. Pitons hammered — (for belay / for creating I.T.O. / rock ice bolt anchors) 55/18 0/0 4/2 88/26 7. Number of climbing hours — 21, days — 2.

Dvoinyashka Peak — 3800 m

Traversing the Western and Eastern peaks (Description of the route as you move towards the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the first koshi, cross the bridge to the left bank, and follow the trail to a large talus accumulation in the gorge. After the talus, follow the riverbank to the start of the ascent up the left, grey, large moraine. Ascend along the ridge to a clearly defined confluence of two moraine ridges. From here, descend left from the moraine via a trail and ascend a grassy slope to a terrace, then continue up slopes and scree to reach the large-boulder moraine. Cross it to reach the Dalar Glacier plateau. Crossing the plateau, approach the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend a snowy slope to a terrace before a steep snowy ascent (80 m, 50°). In rope teams, ascend to the bergschrund — cross via a bridge and a gap (belay!). Beyond the bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the Dalar pass. There are platforms on the rocks. From the camp, it takes 5.5–6 hours. From the Dalar pass, descend left and down, bypassing the southern ridge of Dalar Peak, and follow the scree left of the "ram's foreheads" to the upper part of the cirque between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks, to the 1st narrow couloir on the left. Ascend the couloir (in rope teams!) 50 m up and exit to a scree terrace. From the terrace, go right through a snowpatch and then along the "ram's foreheads" (belay!) — exit right and below the saddle between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks. From here, traverse right along a large terrace, through a snowpatch, to a rocky outcrop, and from it descend to a depression in the southern ridge of the Western Dvoinyashka peak. Ascend 50 m straight up along broken rocks to the base of the ridge — a bivouac site. From the Dalar pass, it takes 4 hours.