Report

on the first ascent to the summit Западный Домбай–Ульген via the western edge (approximately 5B cat. diff.)

The ascent was made from August 17 to 20, 1973, by a group consisting of:

V. Sukharev — leader V. Neborak A. Volkov

Alibek — 1973 g.

Домбай–Ульген West

ROUTE OF ASCENT TO W. ДОМБАЙ–УЛЬГЕН VIA THE WESTERN EDGE. 1–15

SECTIONS OF THE ASCENT DESCRIBED IN THE TEXT:

• From the Ptysh bivouac
• Across grassy and talus slopes
• Towards the beginning of the clearly defined western edge of W. Западный Домбай–Ульген.

Along the easy, broken rocks of the edge up to a large "gendarme" 150–200 m. By passing the "gendarme" on the right (in the direction of travel) along an easy ledge — exit to a five-meter smooth slab. The steepness of the slab is ~70°. (fig. 1) Overcoming the slab via a chimney — exit to the edge. Along the edge 200 m of medium-difficulty rocks to a large gap. To get back onto the ridge, it is necessary to:

• from the gap, make a traverse to the right 40 m along a clearly defined ledge;
• then overcome a 15-meter wall of blocky structure between the first and second "gendarms".

The second "gendarme" of the ridge, 18–20 m of difficult climbing, is overcome head-on. Pulling up backpacks is hampered by sharp protruding slabs directed downwards. (section 5)

A narrow 20-meter ridge leads to the third "gendarme". The "gendarme" is passed on the right side along medium-difficulty rocks (section 6). In the middle part of the "gendarme", an overnight stay is possible in a rocky niche, where one tent can fit.

Three meters above the overnight stay on the right (in the direction of travel) shoulder of the "gendarme":

• the first control point (fig.).

Further along the medium-difficulty rocks, exit to the ridge to the base of the fourth "gendarme". The "gendarme" is passed:

• first to the left of the ridge 7–8 m upwards;
• then in the middle part, cross over to the right side along a ledge.

From here:

• descend down the right side of the "gendarme" by 2–3 m;
• continue further ascent to the right-upwards along the right slope of the main ridge — 80 m to a platform under a steep rise of the ridge, forming a 70-meter wall (section 7).

Here, a convenient overnight stay is possible. To reach the large ledge at the base of the wall, one should exit from the left.

Further:

• from the ledge straight up 40 m along a not clearly defined steep inner corner with a plug in the upper part — to a ledge (difficult climbing) (section 9);
• from the ledge straight up along the wall another 30 m of difficult climbing (section 9).

At the top of the wall — a platform for one tent.

From the platform along the ridge of medium difficulty 120 m to the base of a large "gendarme" — one of the most difficult sections of the route. The passage is hampered by the tile-like structure of the wall. The height of the gendarme is 40 m.

The "gendarme" is overcome on the right side (section 1). Pulling up backpacks is hampered by sharp protrusions of the "tiles", the sharp edges of which are directed downwards.

Along a narrow steep chimney 15 m to the exit to the ridge to the "beak", which is an excellent landmark on the route.

Further, the route goes along the ridge of medium difficulty 120 m and further to the "gate" formed by two "gendarms" standing side by side. At the base of the "gendarms" — 2nd control point.

Along the medium-difficulty rocks 120 m to a steep spall (fig. 2).

To the spall on the right — 20 m of difficult climbing and further to the ridge. Here, an overnight stay is possible.

From the overnight stay 250 m along a complex, broken ridge to the exit to the summit.

Descent via route 4B cat. diff. through П. ЦДСА and "triangle" (on the path of Sosorov).

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

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