The peak B. Nakhar 3780 m is located in one of the spurs of the Greater Caucasus Range. The climbing area is characterized by a significant distance between the base camp and the nearest settlement. From Uchkulan, a mountain road goes along the Gondoray valley to the reserve. This road often becomes impassable for vehicles in bad weather. It takes 3 hours to drive from Uchkulan to the reserve. Then the road goes to the Makhar valley, to the right and up to the tourist camp "Globus" and further to the narzan springs, then through a swampy lowland to the logging area, near which there is a large clearing ending with a log across the Makhar River. In good weather, a car can drive right up to the clearing, which becomes impossible after heavy rains. Our car was able to pass along the road through the swamp after five days of excellent weather. From the bridge, the trail goes along the right bank of the Makhar River to a side valley leading to peak Nakhar. From the point where the stream flows into the river, the trail follows the stream and moraine through:

• sheep's foreheads,
• glacier, to the base camp location on a lateral moraine. It takes two days to travel from the bridge to the base camp. This time depends on the amount of gear for the planned number of days. It is convenient to set up the base camp in the upper part of the moraine, where it flattens out noticeably. The route to peak B. Nakhar was first climbed in 1974 by a group from L.O.S.D.S.O. "Zenit" via the northeast wall, category 6B. The team consisted of:
• I. Korablin — captain

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship, Technical Class

2018

Description of the Ascent to Mt. B. Nakhar (3784 m) via the Right Part of the SE Wall (First Ascent)

Proposed category of difficulty: 5A

The route was completed by a team from St. Petersburg

Team captain: Viskov Igor Vladimirovich. Team coach: Timoshenko Tatiana Ivanovna.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

1. Climbing category — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Caucasus, 2.3. From Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass
3. Peak, its height, and climbing route — Nakhara Bolshoy, 3780 m via the center of the northwest wall
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6th cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1130 m, including 1010 m of wall section; average steepness 73°, including 83° for the wall section. Section lengths: I cat. diff. — absent, II cat. diff. — 320 m, III cat. diff. — absent, IV cat. diff. — 15 m, V cat. diff. — 460 m, VI cat. diff. — 605 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating I.T.O. | | Rock Pitons | Bolts | | :--------- | :------- | :--------- | | for belay | 271 | 4 |

Climbing Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Region 2.3, Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperazau pass.
3. Nakhar Bolshoy, 3784 m, point 90, V. Kovtun's route 1977 via the center of the NW wall, rock climbing route.
4. 6B complexity category, second ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 800 m, wall height difference – 650 m (from 2990 m to 3640 m), average wall slope – 70°, route length – 1300 m, wall section length – 800 m, section lengths: 1 – 60 m, 2 – 150 m, 3 – 305 m, 4 – 110 m, 5 m, 5 – 620 m (including 25 m of artificial climbing), 6 – 55 m (including 50 m of artificial climbing), total artificial climbing – 75 m, with complexity: A1 – 15 m, A2 – 55 m, A3 – 5 m.
6. Equipment used on the route:
   • bolt hammers – 41/5, including 22 on stations
   • rock pitons – 158/42 – 28
   • chocks – 60/20 – 8

1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Uzunkol alpine camp.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate data) — Bolshoy Nakhar peak (3780 m), complexity approximately 6th category of difficulty — via the right part of the northwest wall.
4. Climbing characteristics: — route length — 1310 m. — height difference — 1000 m. — average steepness — 78°. — length of complex sections — 1095 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 185 ice — 20 into the rock

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Uzunkol alpine camp.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks, their heights, route complexity (and other approximate data) — Bolshoy Nakhar peak (3780 m), complexity approximately 6th category of difficulty — via the right part of the northwest wall.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • Route length — 1310 m.
   • Height difference — 1000 m.
   • Average steepness — 78°.
   • Length of complex sections — 805 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 195, ice — 20 into rocks, wooden wedges — 23, placement elements — 6.

PASSPORT

Ascent to the summit of Bolshaya Nakhara, completed as part of the USSR Alpine Climbing Championship 1974. Climbing category — Technically challenging Region — Nakhara Valley Route — v. Bolshaya Nakhara via the northwest wall

Characteristics of the ascent:

Height difference — 1000 m Average slope — 80° Length of complex sections — 745 m Total length — 1335 m

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Caucasus (from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass).
3. B. Nakhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall.
4. Category 6B difficulty.
5. Height difference: 1000 m, length — 1355 m. The average steepness of the route is 75° (see sheet 3, front side). Length of sections: 150 m — category 6, 330 m — category 5, 400 m — category 4, 210 m — category 3, 250 m — category 1.
6. Pitons hammered in: | | For belay | For creating artificial anchors | | :------------ | :------------- | :------------------------------ |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Nakhara region
3. Ascent route — Bolshoi Nakhara peak 3780 m via Northwest wall, 6B category
4. Route characteristics Height difference — 1000 m. Average steepness — 80°. Route length — 1565 m. Length of complex sections — 785 m.
5. Pitons hammered in Rock pitons — 309. Bolt pitons — none. Chocks used — 26.
6. Total climbing hours — 48 h 30 min.
7. Total climbing days — 5 (including one rest day)

1. Nature of the Ascent

1.1. Class of ascent — rock climbing. 1.2. Area of ascent — Western Caucasus, Nakhar region. 1.3. Peak — B. Nakhar, 3780 m, northwest wall (B. Koralin route). 1.4. Category of complexity — 6B. 1.5. Number of pitons driven: 1) for belaying — 23; 2) for creating artificial climbing holds (ITCH) — 5; 3) rock pitons — 23; 4) ice pitons — 0;