Report
On the Third Ascent of the Route to the Summit of Khelda (2nd Zapadnaya) via the South-West Wall (V. Kuznetsov's Route)
Alpinist Camp "Adyl-Su" 1978
Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route to the Summit 2nd Zapadnaya Shkhelda
| № | Section | Average Steepness, ° | Length, m | Terrain Characteristics | Difficulty Category | Condition | Weather Conditions | Rock Pitons | Ice Pitons | Bolts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| R0–R1 | 35–40 | 50–60 | Snow Slope | 1 | Firm Snow | Good | Natural Features | ||||
| R1–R2 | 55 | 120–130 | Ledges | 2 | Snowy | " | 8 | ||||
| R2–R3 | 80 | 45 | Rock | 4–5 | Monolithic | " | 3 | ||||
| R3–R4 | 60 | 90 | Ledge | 4 | Snowy | " | 3 | ||||
| R4–R5 | 90 | 15 | Internal Corner | 5 | Wet | " | 7 | ||||
| R5–R6 | 70–75 | 40–50 | Slabs | 4 | Wet | " | 3 | ||||
| R6–R7 | 50 | 25 | Ridge | 3 | Icy | " | 3 | 1 | |||
| R7–R8 | Traverse | 20 | Rock | 4 | Unstable | " | 3 | ||||
| R8–R9 | Descent | 20 | Rock | 4 | " | " | 2 | ||||
| R9–R10 | 80 | 30 | Rock | 5 | Monolithic | " | 10(III) | T | |||
| R10–R11 | 75 | 45 | Rock | 4–5 | Rockfall Hazardous | " | 7 | ||||
| R11–R12 | 90 | 30 | Internal Corner | 5 | Wet | " | 15(IV) | 1(I) | 2 | ||
| R12–R13 | 80 | 40 | Internal Corner | 5 | Snowy | " | 6 | ||||
| R13–R14 | Traverse | 70 | Snow Slope | 3–4 | Rock Outcrops | " | 3 | ||||
| R14–R15 | 40 | 250–300 | Rock and Snow | Rockfall Hazardous | " | 4 | 2 | ||||
| Total: | 74(VII) | 4(II) | 2(II) |
Brief Explanation of the Table.
Ladders were used during the ascent of sections R9–R10 and R11–R12.
One bolt was hammered in on the route (section R9–R10) and two previously hammered bolts were used (R11–R12).
Rocky Sections:
- The first climber in the team ascended in galoshes
- Sections R2 to R10 were first ascended by Sokolov V.M.
- Sections R11 to R14 were first ascended by Arabadzhiiev M.T.
- The remaining sections were ascended alternately
Control Tours were located on sections R2 and R7. The route corresponds to category 5B difficulty.
Protocol
of the Ascent to the Summit 2nd Zapadnaya Shkhelda via a Category 5B Route, undertaken by a team of instructors from Alpinist Camp "Adyl-Su" from July 25 to 30, 1978.
Alpinist Camp "Adyl-Su", August 30, 1978
PRESENT:
- Head of Educational Department, Master of Sports of the USSR — N.A. Kusel-Moroz
- Head of Rescue Team, Master of Sports of the USSR — N.L. Shupilo
- Instructors: Kadtsin V.N. — Candidate for Master of Sports Kreitsberg A.Z. — 1st Class Gorodetsky V.M. — Candidate for Master of Sports Nagorsky A.S. — Candidate for Master of Sports Arabadzhiiev M.T. — Candidate for Master of Sports Sokolov V.M. — Candidate for Master of Sports
Arabadzhiiev M.T.: On July 25, we left the Alpinist Camp "Adyl-Su" with the following team:
- Kreitsberg
- Kadtsin
- Sokolov
- Arabadzhiiev
We spent the night at "Akh-Su" bivouac, and on the morning of the 26th, we set off for the "Sredny" pass. The weather was bad. From the pass, we ascended to the summit "Fizkulturnik", and then descended to the "Kursantov" pass by 16:00, where we set up our base camp. The ascent was initially planned for July 28, but due to bad weather, we started on the 29th at 3:00. After crossing the plateau, we overcame the bergschrund and traversed to the rocks. The rocks turned out to be more challenging than described. We shared one relatively light rucksack between the two of us, which allowed us to maintain a high pace. By 14:00, we reached the "roof". After finding a suitable bivouac site, we left our rucksack and ascended to the summit via the category 3B ridge. At 16:00, on the ridge, we met another team: Gorodetsky — Nagorsky. We reached the summit by 18:00 and returned to our bivouac site by 20:00. The next day, we set off at 7:00. We descended in 3.5 hours and returned to our initial bivouac by 12:00. We enjoyed the route. Unlike our previous ascent (to Tyutyu Vostochnaya), this route was:
- rockier,
- had more snow only on the ridge,
- and featured ice.
I'm satisfied with my partner. We've been climbing together for a long time, although this was only our second category 5B ascent as a team.
Sokolov V.M.: We really enjoyed the route. We received excellent advice from previous climbers and had a full day to observe the route carefully. I'm happy with my partner. The route was generally not prone to rockfall, although there were some hazardous sections.
Kusel-Moroz: What explains the quick ascent?
Sokolov V.M.: The main reason is that we've gained experience on serious ascents as a team of two. This ascent differed significantly from our previous one on Tyutyu Vostochnaya via Popov's route. We learned from our mistakes in equipment selection, tactics, and food, which significantly lightened our rucksack and allowed for a faster ascent without compromising safety. The route's condition was also good, despite the bad weather the day before.
Shupilo N.L.: How did you maintain communication?
Kadtsin V.N.: We maintained communication with the group from 7:00 to 21:00, every two hours, using "Vitidka" radios. We also kept the route under visual observation. Our communication with the camp was relatively stable.
Shupilo N.L.: I propose that the ascent be recognized.
Rescue
KUSEL-MOROZ N.A.: I support the commander's opinion and believe that the ascent was successful.
(Kusel-Moroz) (Arabadzhiiev M.T.)