- Peak Caucasus via the Southwest Ridge (Route 2A cat. difficulty).
The path from the Shhelda alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the Double Glacier is described in route 111. Across the Double Glacier straight up to its bifurcation.
Then ascent (with crampons!) up the steep icefall of the right glacier branch. At the end of the ascent, exit left onto the easy rocks of the ridge dividing the glacier into two parts, and ascend to the sites (there is water).
From the sites (without backpacks):
- Exit to the upper ice-snow plateau
- Movement across the plateau and a small snowy slope
- Ascent to the Shheldinsky Pass (0.5 hours from the sites; 8-10 hours from the Shhelda alpine camp).
From the pass:
- Left and up a snowy couloir to ascend to the Southwest Ridge of Peak Caucasus East.
- Movement along the easy, in places moderately difficult, broken and snow-covered rocks of the ridge - to a site below the pre-summit wall.
- Ascent up the wall (belay!) for 30 m straight up to the East Summit of Peak Caucasus (2-2.5 hours from Shheldinsky Pass).
From the East Summit:
- Movement along the easy, in places moderately difficult, broken and snow-covered rocks of the ridge.
- Overcoming several easy gendarmes.
- Ascent to Peak Caucasus (1.5-2 hours from the East Summit).
Descent from the peak is via the ascent route.
It is necessary to have:
- 2 ice screws
- Crampons for all participants.
