Peak Profsoyuzov!

PRK Profsoyuzov.

Cat. diff. 2B.

Summit elevation 2050 m.

The summit is located in the Main Caucasian Range, on the same ridge as the peaks Pkhola-Tau. Near the peak Profsoyuzov are located the following peaks:

• to the southeast — Pkhola-Tau
• to the northwest — Psentiba-shi
• a nameless peak above the Akh-Tsu pass

The path to the summit from the Gakssan gorge via the Adyl-Su and Pkhola gorges, through:

• Pkhola glacier
• the glacier of peak Profsoyuzov.

Time to approach, from the tourist base in the village of Teghenekli to the bivouac site (Arestov shelter) — 5 hours.

The summit is surrounded by glaciers:

• to the northeast — Pkhola glacier
• to the north — Akh-Su glacier
• to the south — a nameless glacier flowing from the slopes of Pkhola-Tau.

From peak Profsoyuzov, the ridges branch off:

• to the southeast to the peak Zapadnaya Pkhola-Tau,
• to the west to the Akh-Su pass (on this ridge there are three small nameless peaks).

The first ascent to peak Profsoyuzov was made in 1929 by Shkhberg's group from the Pkhola glacier, via the saddle.

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Glacier walls from peak Profsoyuzov, onto the saddle between Zapadnaya Pkhola and peak Profsoyuzov and further along the eastern ridge to the summit.

The first Soviet ascent was made in the 1920s by Aristov's group via the route of the first ascenders. From Aristov's shelter, up the left lateral moraine of the Pkhola glacier, to the Akh-Su glacier (flowing into the Pkhola glacier). Traverse the Akh-Su glacier in its lower part and exit onto the glacier flowing from peak Profsoyuzov. Ascend to this glacier, enter from the left side (orographically) and exit onto the upper part of the glacier; traverse this to the right side to the base of the sharp firn edge. The ascent goes up the edge. In the upper part, the edge turns into a steep firn slope, which is ascended to the saddle between peak Profsoyuzov and Zapadnaya Pkhola. From the saddle, along the east ridge to the summit.

The ascent to peak Profsoyuzov from the village of Teghenekli takes 2 days. The bivouac should be set up at Aristov's shelter, located on the left bank of the Pkhola glacier. From the bivouac to the summit — 7-8 hours ascent. Descent — 5-6 hours.

The most difficult places on the way to the summit:

• bypassing the icefall on the glacier of peak Profsoyuzov;
• exit to the saddle between Zapadnaya Pkhola and peak Profsoyuzov;
• movement along the sharp firn edge and steep firn slopes (45-55°).

The ascent via the crevasse is done in crampons, with careful alternating stepping, via pitons and ice axe.

Hazardous areas include:

• the upper part of the glacier of peak Profsoyuzov, above which ice seracs are located on the slopes of the peak
• traversing the icy edge leading from the glacier to the saddle

An unattempted and possible ascent variant to the summit — from the southern Pkhola glacier, via the southern wall.

For the ascent, the following are needed:

• crampons
• ice axes
• rope.

Cancellation of the composition:

(ОХХОКХ:ОН) 19 / 2–39 г