Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Region: Alps, Chamonix (France)
3. Route: via the left buttress of the North face (Cassin–Walker)
4. Difficulty category: not classified, proposed 6B
5. Height difference: 1708 m, length: 2100 m length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 620 m length of sections with 6th category difficulty – 550 m average steepness of the route: 75°
6. Pitons used:

Krasnodar Region Alpinism Federation Russian Alpinism Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

ON ASCENDING GRANDES JORASSES, P. WALKER (4208 m) VIA THE LEFT SIDE OF THE LARGE INTERNAL CORNER OF THE EASTERN WALL, ACCOMPLISHED BY THE TEAM OF KRAI PUBLIC ORGANIZATION "Krasnodar Region Alpinism Federation". Presumably 6B category of difficulty. FIRST ASCENT Gorodishchenskiy R. R. Foygel M. R. 2016

Table of Contents

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Alps, Mont Blanc Massif (France, Chamonix).
3. Grand Jorasses peak, Croz point 4110 m, North Face, "MANITUA" route.
4. Complexity category 6B cat. sl., (ED 3/4 according to French classification).
5. Height difference — 1140 m, route length — 1310 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. sl. — 1110 m, including 6 cat. sl. — 490 m, average steepness of the route — 73°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: 92+2*/19
   • bolted: 3/3
   • protection elements: 167/24

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class
2. French Alps, Chamonix
3. Peak (massif) Grands Jorasses (4110 m), North face
4. Proposed 6A cat. sl. Third ascent of the route "No Siesta"
5. Height difference 1100 m, length 1000 m
6. Average steepness 68°, main part of the wall 78°
7. Moving hours 24 h, or 1.5 days.
8. Overnights: one seated on backpacks hung in the chimney.
9. Participants: Ruchkin Alexander Alexandrovich — MSMK

ASCENT REPORT (6B variation)

1. Region — Alps, 10.3.
2. Peak — Gранд Жораcc (Grand Jorasses), Croz peak, 4110 m via the center of the north face.
3. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty (ED VI+, 6b, A2), variation of route № Siesta.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1030 m, route length — 1200 m, sections of 6th category — 650 m, 5th category — 300 m, average steepness of the wall section — 72°.

Passport

1. Class — rock climbing category of the 1998 Russian Alpinism Championship
2. Alps — France, Mont Blanc massif
3. Peak — Grandes Jorasses, pointe Walker (4184 m)
4. Route — 6B category of difficulty, Direkt de Ametue (conditional rating –4.0)
5. Length — 1420 m
6. Length of wall section — 1420 m
7. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1100 m including 6 category of difficulty — 480 m
8. Height difference — 1180 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Alps, Mont Blanc massif
3. Grand Capucin (3838 m) — via the center of the West face
4. Complexity category — 6B. W. Bonatti route
5. Height difference — 450 m. of which: rock part — 350 m. Length — 720 m, incl. rock part (after traverse) — 420 m. Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 330 m,

The summit of Grand Capucin 3838 m, East face. The route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part was ascended by the team V. Igolkin – Yu. Oleinikov on June 22, 1998. 2 — The route "Directe des Capucins" (Bellin, Bovin and Maioli, 1983) was ascended by the team S. Soldatov – M. Sibaev on June 22, 1998.

CERTIFICATE

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Alps, Mont Blanc massif (France, Chamonix).
3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, route "East face original route" (Bonnati – Gigo, 1951) in combination with the North face in the upper part.
4. Complexity category 5B–6A cat. (TD/TD+ according to the French classification).
5. Height difference — 400 m, route length — 620 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 620 m, of which 6 cat. — 500 m, average steepness of the route — 84°.
6. Driven pitons:

Passport

1. Category of rock climbing ascents.
2. Alps, Mont Blanc Massif (France, Chamonix).
3. Grand Capucin peak 3838 m, East face, "Directe" route (Bellin, Boivin, Maioli), 1983.
4. Difficulty category 6A (ED2 according to the French classification).
5. Height difference - 450 m, route length - 570 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 570 m, including 6 category - 530 m, average steepness of the route - 84°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 49+2*/29+2* chocks 81/37
7. Team's travel time - 12 hours.

Passport

1. Winter category.
2. France, Alps, Mont Blanc massif.
3. Grand Capucin peak, 3838 m, via the East face. Route "Russkaya zima" (Russian Winter).
4. Proposed category — 6A, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 508 m, length — 570 m, including wall section 413 and 420 m, respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 30 m, 6th category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the wall section 82°, from bergschrund to summit 71°.
6. Pitons driven: rock bolts, pitons, ice screws | 42 | 230 | 0 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :-: | :-: |