Ascent to the summit Maly Akshuat from the east - 2B cat. sl. From the bivouac on the false pass to the left along the shelves exit to the Khamurza pass. From the pass 15–20 m straight up along the ridge. Further to the left-up along the crack 6–8 m to the inclined shelf (hook!) and then ascent to the left of the ridge along the shelves, crossing a number of loose couloirs, to the last gendarme in front of the summit. The entire path:

• is prone to rockfall
• requires careful insurance
• use hooks and ledges Bypass the gendarme to the right along the shelves, exit again to the left onto the ridge and along it to the

Fig. 5

2. Ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut (3540 m) from the northeast - category 2B (see Fig. 5)

From Domai through the Jalovchat pass and descent to the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads) above the Jalovchat glacier - bivouac. From Domai campsite 7-8 hours. From the bivouac descent to the Jalovchat glacier and further, crossing it in the direction of the Severny Aksaut summit, to the rocky outcrop. To the left of the rocky outcrop upwards and along the glacier to the eastern spur of Severny Aksaut. Ascent along the destroyed rocks of the spur to the right - upwards 80-90 m, then exit to the right onto the glacier (the glacier is cut, crevasses, insurance!) and along the glacier to the right - upwards - exit to the rocks. Then:

• through the bergschrund (insurance!) ascent along the destroyed rocks (insurance through ledges, местами крючьевая!);
• further along the snow - exit to the Severny Aksaut pass. From the bivouac on "barany lby" 4-5 hours. Further see the description of the ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut from the northwest.

Recommendations for climbers

Report

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF AKSAUT NORTH VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY MULTIPROFILE ALPINISM CLUB "FRILINE" 12.06.2018

Ascent Passport

Ascent Log

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: CAUCASUS, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: AKSAUT NORTH-EAST (3760 m) via the South-East wall. 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 950 m, average steepness 65°, total length of sections: 1300 m.

Severodonetsk Sports Club "Khimik"

UkrSSR Alpine Championship

Report

On the first ascent of the Aksaut traverse with ascent via the East ridge to the Second Northern Aksaut and further traverse to the Eastern Aksaut (approximately route 5B cat. diff.) July 14 – July 20, 1972  The ascent is dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the USSR formation Severodonetsk – 1972 

List of assault group participants

Alibek-bashi

Fig. 15

Ascent to the summit of Alibek-bashi (3782 m) - by difficulty category (Fig. 15)

From Dombayskaya polyana along the trail to Alibeksky glacier to the rocks of Razdelny peak — bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) left-upwards, bypassing crevasses of the icefall and exit to the gentle part of the glacier. Depending on the state of the glacier, further ascent to the rocky spur of the Ertzog peak and left to the bergschrund under the slopes of Alibek-bashi or in the middle of the glacier upwards, then left to the bergschrund under the slopes of Alibek-bashi. Then through the bergschrund and ascent

Climbing Passport

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Main Caucasus Range from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass (Western Caucasus)
3. Peak, its height, Alibek-Bashi peak (3782 m). Ascent route via the North face
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 420 m
   • Average steepness — 60°
6. Pitons hammered — 6 rock pitons
7. Number of climbing hours — 8–9 hours

ASCENT PASS

1. Category of technical ascents.
2. Dombay area, North-West Caucasus.
3. Alibekskiy peak, ~3450 m, from the Belalakayskiy glacier along the edge or along the ridge from Kap peak.
4. Cat. diff. – 1A.
5. The nature of the route is combined, the height difference from the glacier is 500 m, in the second half of summer there are ice sections in the upper part of the route.
6. Insurance – without the use of hooks.
7. Number of travel hours from the bivouac on the moraine: ascent 4–5 hours, descent – 2 hours.
8. Group is training: | Participant | Rank |

Alibekskiy Peak

Ascent Passport

3. Ascent route with indication of peaks: ascent via Western counterfort (approximately 4A category of difficulty) 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 750–800 m, average steepness 55–60° 5. Pitons hammered in: rock — 22 pcs. ice — none bolt — none

Fig. 27

1. Ascent to the summit of Glavny Amanauz (3757 m) from the Amanauzsky Pass — category 3b difficulty (Fig. 27)

From Dombayskaya Polyana across the bridge over the Alibek River and along the trail to the crossing over the Amanauz River. Crossing to the right bank, then:

• along the moraine,
• through the "barany lby" to the Amanauzsky Glacier,
• along the glacier to the terminal moraine below the West Amanauz Glacier. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3–4 hours. Further (in rope teams!), ascent to the Amanauzsky Pass between the peaks Glavny Amanauz and Sofruju. Ascent on the right side of the heavily crevassed glacier. In the upper part, under the slopes of Zub Sofruju peak, one should move to the middle of the glacier due to possible firn avalanches from the slopes of Zub Sofruju. The exit to the pass is via a bergschrund on a steep (50°) snowy slope — 120 m (belaying!), slightly to the left of a rock outcrop. There is a bivouac site on the pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 8–9 hours. From the pass, along the несложным скалам (easy rocks) of the western ridge to the gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the right and continue along the ridge to the red gendarme.