Fig. 5

2. Ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut (3540 m) from the northeast - category 2B (see Fig. 5)

From Domai through the Jalovchat pass and descent to the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads) above the Jalovchat glacier - bivouac. From Domai campsite 7-8 hours.

From the bivouac descent to the Jalovchat glacier and further, crossing it in the direction of the Severny Aksaut summit, to the rocky outcrop. To the left of the rocky outcrop upwards and along the glacier to the eastern spur of Severny Aksaut. Ascent along the destroyed rocks of the spur to the right - upwards 80-90 m, then exit to the right onto the glacier (the glacier is cut, crevasses, insurance!) and along the glacier to the right - upwards - exit to the rocks.

Then:

• through the bergschrund (insurance!) ascent along the destroyed rocks (insurance through ledges, местами крючьевая!);
• further along the snow - exit to the Severny Aksaut pass.

From the bivouac on "barany lby" 4-5 hours. Further see the description of the ascent to the summit of Severny Aksaut from the northwest.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in the group - no more than 6-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - "barany lby" above the Jalovchat glacier.
3. Time of departure from the bivouac - 4-5 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope - 2 × 30 m; b) expendable repschnur - 3-4 m; c) rock pitons - 4; d) ice pitons - 2; e) rock hammer - 1; f) carabiners - 8; g) crampons - 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac location - on the Severny Aksaut pass.