Northwestern Caucasus

Mountain range16,851.32 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the traverse of the peaks 60 let KChAO, Peshchera, Septemvri and Kelbesh in the Western Caucasus, difficulty category 3A, climbed in January 1982.

CharacteristicValue
CLIMB CLASStraverse
CLIMB AREAWestern Caucasus, Arkhyz, northern spur of the Sofiyskiy ridge between the valleys of the Psyysh and Sofiya rivers
PEAK ROUTE60 let KChAO, Peshtera, Septemvri (proposed by the first ascenders), Kelbashi
ASSUMED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY3A (winter)
ROUTE DESCRIPTION– Rock and snow, mostly ridge, absolute altitude difference 643 m
NUMBER OF PITOONS12
NUMBER OF TRAVERSE HOURS12 hours (from the start of the route to the summit of Kelbashi)
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Description of a technical route of 2B category of difficulty to the top Kardivach-Main (3150 m) in Krasnodar region via the eastern ridge.

ASCENT PASS

  1. Ascent class: technical
  2. Ascent area: 2.1. Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Kardyvach — Glavnaya, 3150 m, via the eastern ridge, combined (snow, rocks).
  4. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 40°.
  5. Expected difficulty category: 2B.
  6. Pitons driven: for belay; for creating artificial support points | | rock pitons | ice screws | | :---------- | :--------- | :--------- | | rock | 2 | 1 |
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Climbing certificate for Kardyvach peak (3106 m) via the stone counterfort, category of difficulty 3A, route and approach description.

ASCENT PASSPORT

I. ASCENT CLASS — technical 2. ASCENT AREA, RANGE — Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass, Main Caucasian Range. 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE — Kardyvach (Main), 3105 m, via the southern counterfort. 4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3A 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: length of sections R1–200 m; R2–40 m; R3–595 m; R4–110 m. elevation gain — 385 m. average slope — 42° 6. NUMBER OF PITS ON: for protection and belay, for artificial climbing holds. rock — 23, ice — 0, bolt — 0 7. TOTAL CLIMBING TIME — 7 h 15 min

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### Description of the First Ascent via the Northwest Ridge to Kardyvach Glavnaya Peak (3105 m) The climb is categorized as 4-5 difficulty and was first achieved by a group of mountaineers in 1970.

Description

The route of the first ascent via the Northwest Ridge to the summit of Kardyvach Glavnaya (3105 m) - approximately Category 4B difficulty - was climbed by a group of climbers from the Krasnodar City Section of Alpinism under the DSO "TRUD" in May 1970. The Kardyvach Glavnaya peak, with an elevation of 3105 m, is located on the Main (Watershed) Ridge, near the junction of the Main and Gagra ridges in the area of Kardyvach-Ritsa lakes. The peak is a rocky-snowy dome with a sharp shoulder extending to the northwest, which then turns into a ridge. The described ascent route goes from the "13-ti" pass along the northwest ridge.

Route Characteristics

The route is rocky-snowy, mainly ridge-like, and surpasses routes like:

  • Dubll-peak
  • Adai-khokh
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Ascent to the summit of Kardyvach Glavny via the center of the southern wall, category of difficulty 4B, made by a group of climbers in May 1979.

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category: Rock climbing. 2. Climbing area, ridge: Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Awadkhara region. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Mt. Kardyvach Main, 3150 m, via the center of the South face. 4. Estimated difficulty category: 4B (winter). 5. Route characteristics:

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Report on the ascent of the FAKK team to the summit of Nagai-Koshki via the eastern spur on 23.08.2020 with a description of the 2A category complexity route.

Report

On the ascent to Nagay-Koshki peak (2090 m) via the eastern counterfort ("Botanik") 2A category of complexity by the FAKK team for the period 23.08.2020

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderKhrabovchenko V.V., 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsBondarenko S., 2nd sports rank, Zhikhar R., 3rd sports rank, Ovcharenko D., 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachKravchenko O.V., CMS, instructor 2 cat., Aristov I.E., MS, instructor 2 cat.
1.4OrganizationFederation of Alpinism of Krasnodar Krai
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Chugush (3238 m) via the South-Eastern ridge, category 2B difficulty level, a combined route.

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR TERRITORY REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO CHUGUSH PEAK (3238 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, Presumably Category 2B, combined. First ascent. Team leader – Ivan Sergeyevich Kuchkin Sochi 2020

Ascent Details

  1. Western Caucasus, Krasnaya Polyana area, Achipse gorge, section 2.1 of the mountain peak route classifier.
  2. Peak: Chugush, 3238 m.
  3. Route: via the Southeast Ridge
  4. Category of difficulty: presumably 2B
  5. Route type: combined
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Climbing report on ascending to the summit of Kara-Jash via Category 4B route on the left counterfort of the western wall.

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR TERRITORY

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Kara-Dzhash (3171 m) via the route of the left buttress of the Western wall, approximately 4B cat. diff. (second ascent) by the team of the alpinism club "Shтурm", Krasnodar, on September 2, 2022.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderKotlyarov Dmitry Viktorovich, 1st sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsIvashchenko Mikhail Nikolayevich, CMSR
1.3Full name of the coachKapustin Andrey Evgenyevich
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Report on the ascent of the SAK "Maximum" team to the summit of Sofia via the Northwest Slope and West Ridge, a Category 2A climb.

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Sofia via the northwest slope and west ridge, category 2A complexity, by the team of SAC "Maximum", August 3, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

№№1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderSvitovoy Kirill Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsKozoderov Vasily Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank, Shkurenko Yulia Viktorovna, 3rd sports rank, Medalieva Zaira Aslanovna, 3rd sports rank, Chernov Stanislav Evgenievich, 3rd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachGrebenyuk Alexander Viktorovich
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Report on the first ascent of the route of 4B category of complexity to the summit 2321 (Pshekho-su South-West) via the south-west wall.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 2321 (PSHEKHO-SU SOUTHWEST) VIA THE SOUTHWEST WALL ROUTE, CATEGORY 4B, BY THE TEAM OF THE STAVROPOL KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION ON JULY 2, 2023.

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderGlushnev Alexander Nikolaevich, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsIver Evgeny Vasilievich, CMS, instructor 3rd category (cert. №898)
Shpilevoy Yuri Valerievich, 2nd sports rank
1.3Full name of the coachEnin Vladimir Ilyich
1.4OrganizationStavropol Krai Federation of Alpinism
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
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