Alibek-bashi
Fig. 15
Ascent to the summit of Alibek-bashi (3782 m) - by difficulty category (Fig. 15)
From Dombayskaya polyana along the trail to Alibeksky glacier to the rocks of Razdelny peak — bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) left-upwards, bypassing crevasses of the icefall and exit to the gentle part of the glacier. Depending on the state of the glacier, further ascent to the rocky spur of the Ertzog peak and left to the bergschrund under the slopes of Alibek-bashi or in the middle of the glacier upwards, then left to the bergschrund under the slopes of Alibek-bashi. Then through the bergschrund and ascent along the steep slope (45–50°, belay!) to the ridge east of the summit. From the bivouac 6–7 hours. (At the beginning of summer, the slope is avalanche-prone! Pass early in the morning! In the second half of summer, the slope is icy! Crampons and ice screws are required!)
From the ridge upwards along the couloir (rockfall!) to the wall, left along it and upwards along the gully. Above the wall - up-right to the yellow crumbling wall (rockfall!) and through it to the "gendarme" "perо". The gendarme is bypassed on the left. The 15-meter wall is usually climbed on the right with piton belay. Above the wall - a narrow ridge (running belay on outcrops). Then through several short walls exit to the summit.
From the ridge: 3–4 hours.
Descent along the ascent route. Descent from the 15-meter wall by rappel.
Ensure belay when traversing along the ridge after descending by rappel!
Descent from the summit to the "Alibek" camp 5–6 hours.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants in the group - no more than 6 people.
- Initial bivouac - rocks under Razdelny peak.
- Departure time from the bivouac - no later than 3-4 am.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×30 m; b) expendable reepschnur - 2 m; c) rock pitons - 4–5; d) ice screws - 3; e) rock hammers - 2; f) carabiners - 8; g) crampons - 4 pairs.
- Possible bivouac location - on the summit.
