Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT NADEZHDA VIA THE NORTHERN SLOPE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A COMPLEXITY, BY THE TEAM OF RSOO "FAM" MOSCOW, JULY 26, 2023 2024

I. Climbing Report Details

Report

On the ascent of Fisht North peak via the center of the West wall through "Mirrors" and a cornice, route category 6A (approximately), first ascent by a combined team from Krasnodar Krai and Rostov Oblast. For the period from March 10, 2024, to March 13, 2024.

I. Ascent Report

REPORT

on the ascent of Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola from the east, from Chhalta – Dzykh Pass, July 9–10, 1972, first ascent.

I. Group Composition

• Gubanov Yu.D. — CMS, senior instructor KSP Dombay region, unattached, sports society "Burevestnik", Dombay settlement.
• Khamtsov A.P. — 1st sports category, junior instructor alpine camp "Alibek", unattached, sports society "Burevestnik", Dombay settlement.

II. Alpinist and Geographical Characteristics of Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola Region (3650 m)

Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola is located in the Main Ridge and has a long ridge stretching from west to east and dropping steeply to Chhalta – Dzykh Pass (3180 m). At the end of the eastern ridge of the peak, dropping to the pass, there is a shoulder in the form of a huge tooth with a sheer eastern wall. Through this shoulder from the south, along the counterfort, in 1969 a route 4A category of difficulty was passed to Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola. There is also an old route — traverse of Pik Germanskogo komsomola — Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola 3A category of difficulty, which has not been used for a long time. It was passed by a group led by Yu. Gubanov — Yu. Prima in June 1972 to scout other routes in this area, as a result of which the described route was chosen by us. We assumed that it had not been climbed before, as all descents from the traverse of Pik Germanskogo komsomola — Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola 3A category of difficulty and descents from the route on Pik Avstriyskogo komsomola from the south along the counterfort 4A category of difficulty were made to the south, along another, easier counterfort. Apparently, the path from the pass was considered difficult or was completely unknown. Subsequently, when passing the route, before the already passed ridge section, we did not find any traces.

The first ascent to the summit of "Austrian Komsomol" (3600 m) via the Chkhalta-Dzykh pass from the south along the eastern ridge, approximately 4A category of difficulty. Dombay, July 1969, "Krasnaya Zvezda" alpine camp

Photo # 1

Panorama of peaks from the Belalai glacier. From right to left: Kap peak; "German Komsomol" peak; "Austrian Komsomol" peak. (September)

Photo # 2

View from the Belalai glacier to the Chkhalta-Dzykh pass (September).

Diagram # 1

of the area of "Austrian Komsomol" peak "M" is the saddle between the "Austrian Komsomol" peak and its southeastern summit - Festivalny peak.

Ascent Passport. I. Rock climbing category. 2. Dombay region, North-West Caucasus. 3. Ascent to Avstriyskiy Komsomola peak (3654 m) via left NE edge — first ascent. 4. Difficulty category — 4B. 5. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference 1050 m, length 1350 m, length of sections with IV difficulty category — 950 m, average steepness 60°. 6. Diverse insurance: 30 rock pitons were hammered for insurance, rope loops were used 25 times. 7. Departure and return dates to the camp: 5–7 August 1976. 8. Number of travel hours from the start of the route to the summit — 12 hours and descent to Belalakaya glacier another 5.5 hours. The ascent was made on August 6, 1976 (The group had a reserve of warm clothing, a primus stove, etc.). 9. Sports group: Starikov G.A. — 1st sports category, instructor Stepanov E.L. — with observers on the glacier — 3rd category climbers.

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT (TRAVERSAL) OF AKBENSKIE PEAKS VIA THE CENTRAL EASTERN EDGE EXPEDITION LEADER GNOEVSKY I.P. Taganrog 1978

I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Akbenskie (North and South) peaks are located in the Ptysh cirque and are adjacent to Ptysh Glavny from the south, and to the Juguтурлючат massif from the north. Thus, Akbenskie peaks are situated on the Main Caucasian Ridge. The height of the South peak is 3510 m, and the North peak is 3530 m. The Akbenskie peaks drop sharply into the Ptysh cirque from the east and to the South Ptysh cirque from the west. The height difference from the glacier to the peak is 1100 m.

2. Climbing Conditions in the Area

Fig. 4

4. Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Aksaut (3800 m) via the north-eastern wall — category 4A difficulty (Fig. 4Б)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, descend to the baranii lby bivouac via the Dalovchatsky Pass. 7–8 hours from Dombayskaya Polyana. From the bivouac, descend to the Jalovchatsky Glacier. Cross it diagonally upwards towards Vostochny Aksaut. Approach the steep glacier under the base of the Vostochny Aksaut counterfort and directly upwards (in rope teams!) to the counterfort rocks. Slightly below the rocks, traverse the glacier first upwards to the right for 70–80 m, then to the left, to reach the neck of the ice-snow couloir (beware of rockfall and

1. Ascent to the summit Glavny Aksaut (3910 m) from the south — cat. diff. 2B

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Turye Lake, then along the trail and through the barany lby to the Dvuyazychny Glacier and along it (in ropes!) to the Jalovchat Pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 6 hours. From the pass down to the barany lby and through them to the Jalovchat Glacier. Then along the right-bank moraine and further along the Jalovchat Glacier in the direction of the Khamurza Pass, keeping to the left of the rocky outcrops, exit to the steep part of the glacier. Up the steep slope of the glacier (crampons!):

• 300–350 m left-up,
• then 180–200 m right — up,
• exit under the western ridge of the Maly Jalovchat peak. Further:
• traverse right 120–150 m to the rocks of the Maly Aksaut peak,
• crossing the bergschrund (protection!),

Central Council of DSO "Spartak"

Alpinist National Team

Report

On the Ascent to Main Aксаут via the North Face July 17–22, 1961

1. Aксаут Massif and its North Face.

(Geographical location and history of exploration) The Aксаут massif is located west of the popular Dombay region and, together with the Кара-Каи massif and the spurs of Джаловчат, closes the picturesque Aксаут valley. The Aксаут node consists of 9 peaks, among which the most significant alpinist interest is drawn to:

• Узловая (3860 m)
• Средняя (3870 m)

Sportive Characteristics and Selection of the Ascent Object

The area began to be explored in terms of alpinism in 1934. The peak Maly Aksaut has the following routes:

• a route of category 2B difficulty via the eastern ridge, described in F. Kropff's book "Western Caucasus", M.: FiS, 1962;
• a route traversed by the Odessa Regional Council of the "Avangard" sports society in July 1975, approximately category 3B difficulty. No other data on ascents to the peak M. Aksaut was found. Upon closer acquaintance with the area, the logical and objective safety of the route along the eastern counterfort was established, as well as its sportive attractiveness. This determined the object of the ascent.

Composition of the Sports Group

The group consisted of:

• Braer V.I. (leader), 1st sports category
• Markovsky O.V., Master of Sports of the USSR