REPORT

on the ascent to v. Glavny Amanauz from the north, via the spur through the firn ridge, first ascent from July 15–17, 1972

I. Group Composition

Gubanov Yu.D. — CMS, senior instructor KSP Dombay region, b/p, DSO "Spartak" "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement. Khamsov A.P. — 1st category, junior instructor a/l "Alibek", b/p, DOO "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement. Interaction group — group of Severo-Donetsk gatherings, route to v. Glavny Amanauz from Amanauz pass 3B category.

II. Alpinist-Geographical Characteristics of the Glavny Amanauz Peak Area

v. Gl. Amanauz (3755 m) is located in the area of the Main ridge, surrounding the cirque of the East Amanauz glacier and has a long ridge, stretched approximately from west to east (see attached map). Three classified routes lead directly to v. Gl. Amanauz:

• from Amanauz pass, along the western ridge 3B category

REPORT

On the ascent of Mt. AMANAUZ Main via the South face, category 5B - (control and test route by B. Romanov), made by instructors at "Alibek" alpine camp Shklyaev E.V. and Smaglyukov S.E. on August 3-4, 1977.

Brief explanations for the table

The start of the route is easily recognizable. It is located at the intersection of a vertical line dropped from the "room" corner with the snow adjacent to the wall. Here, a monolithic outer corner goes up. Further movement is completely unambiguous and logical. The first control point is located in the "room" corner on an inclined shelf. The overhanging walls were bypassed on the left side, where their extent is minimal. The average steepness of sections R1-R4 approaches 78 °. Due to the monolithic and relief nature of the rocks, the first climber was able to ascend with a backpack. The backpacks were pulled up only on section 4. At the end of section 5, there is a good bivouac site. Sections 6, 8, 9-11 are significantly more destroyed; there are large stones lying separately. The second control point is located at the bivouac (section 8). The path from the bivouac goes around the bifurcation of the South ridge to the right through the "black" wall, leading to its shoulder. Further, the path goes along the ridge. The average steepness of the route is about 60 °. In general, the route can be divided into two parts: R1-R4 and R5-R11. The first part is significantly more complex and steeper, and its passage can be facilitated by preliminary processing of the wall's beginning.

Ascent Record,

done in the Ukrainian Council Championship of the “Avangard” Sports Society in mountaineering 1974.

1. Ascent category — technically challenging ascents.
2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus.
3. Ascent route — Mt. Amanauz (Main peak) 3757 m via S.-W. buttress of the southern wall.
4. Ascent details: total altitude gain — 700 m; altitude gain on very difficult sections — 520 m; average slope of the route — 65°; slope of very difficult sections — 85°;

Main peak of Amanauz via SW wall 3757 m

First ascent (approximately category 5B)

Group members:

1. Kuzmuk V.V. - team leader, 1st sports category
2. Shakin S.A. - participant, Master of Sports
3. Bychek A.M. - participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
4. Verba A.A. - participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
5. Mudrenok V.N. - participant, 1st sports category The route was climbed by the team from the "Dombay" alpine camp. Coach - Magomedov Kh.K.

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Western Caucasus
3. Summit: Amanauz Main, 3757 m via 2-3 wall.
4. Route difficulty category: 5B category
5. Height difference: 880 m
6. Length of sections with IV–VI category difficulty — 450 m Total route length: 1030 m. Average steepness: 60°
7. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons — 68, bolt pitons — 0, use of placed elements — 52
8. Number of travel hours: 26 hours

All-Union Council of the DSO Trade Unions Department of Mountaineering Alplager "Dombay"

Caucasus

(2.2. from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass)

Amanauz Main (Dvuzubka)

3757 m via north-eastern wall through the "mirror"

Route Description

on Mt. Amanauz (Main) via the Northeast Wall, Category 5B difficulty, Bödnik. Western Caucasus from Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass. From Dombay Square, follow the right side of the Amanauz River along the trail to the "ram's foreheads" and through them to the glacier and then to the "Conical Moraine" of the Amanauz Glacier. Campsite. Route passage:

• From the conical moraine to the second step of the glacier, which is traversed from the left.
• Ascend through the steep middle part of the icefall in the direction of Pravda Peak.
• Upon reaching the level of the lower part of Dvuzyubka's wall, traverse right for 300–400 m under the wall.
• Return to the initial campsite. From Dombay Square — 4–5 hours.

Ascent Passport 21

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent region

• rock climbing
• Caucasus, 2–2. from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

3. Peak, its height, and route: Main Dvuzyub (Dvuzubka), ascents

• 3757 m, via the north-eastern slope through the "зеркало" (mirror)

4. Proposed category of mountain difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics

• height difference — 957 m, including 800 m to Dvuzubka peak, average steepness

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Region of ascent — Caucasus, Dombay.
3. Ascent to the summit Amanauz (Dvuzubka) via the east wall 3600 m, category 6A. Kavunenko Route.
4. Height difference of the wall section is 695 m. Total route length is 804 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty is 135 m.
5. Average steepness of the wall section is 62°.
6. Number of pitons driven: | Rock | Ice | Bolt | Chocks | | :--- | :--- | :---- | :------ | | 21+7 | 0 | 25 | 120 |

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit of Amanauz Glavny via the Eastern wall (Dvuzubka, the control and test route by Kavunenko, category 5B) carried out by the instructors at "Alibek" alpine camp consisting of:

• Kovalevsky V.A.,
• Andryushchenko A.V.,
• Bashtinsky A.I. from August 2, 1977, to August 4, 1977.

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE TABLE

R0–R1: start of the route. 0.5 rope length along the smoothed wet rocks of the black slab.

• R1–R2: 1.5 rope lengths ascent to a ledge, traverse left along it, and exit to a spalled rock.
• R2–R3: 0.5 rope length complex climbing, slab-like smoothed rocks, artificial technical means (И.Т.О.), exit into an internal corner. R3–R4: 1.5 rope lengths along the internal corner to the "grotto". Rocks are like "ram's foreheads". Rockfall hazard!