Ascent to the summit Maly Akshuat from the east - 2B cat. sl.
From the bivouac on the false pass to the left along the shelves exit to the Khamurza pass. From the pass 15–20 m straight up along the ridge. Further to the left-up along the crack 6–8 m to the inclined shelf (hook!) and then ascent to the left of the ridge along the shelves, crossing a number of loose couloirs, to the last gendarme in front of the summit.
The entire path:
- is prone to rockfall
- requires careful insurance
- use hooks and ledges
Bypass the gendarme to the right along the shelves, exit again to the left onto the ridge and along it to the summit.
- Ascent to the summit from the bivouac takes 3–4 hours
- Descent along the ascent route - 4–5 hours
- Descent is especially prone to rockfall!
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants in the group - no more than 6–8 people.
- Initial bivouac - Khamurza pass or false pass.
- Time of exit from the bivouac - 4–5 am.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope - 2×30 m; b) expendable repschnur - 2–3 m; c) rock hooks - 3–4; d) ice hooks - 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammer - 1; f) carabiners - 7–8; g) crampons 4 pairs.
- Possible bivouac location - on the summit of F. Kropf. Western Caucasus, p. 38