REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Amanaus via the Main route on the East wall (“Dvuzubka”, control and evaluation route by Kavunenko, category 5B), made by the instructors of “Alibek” alpine camp Sorokin A.G. and Akhtyrsky O.A. from August 1 to 4, 1977.

Explanations for the table

The table of main characteristics shows the indicators of the route taken from August 1 to 4, 1977. Leaving the bivouac under the wall on August 1, 1977 at 8:00, the group started moving along the route without prior processing. After the preceding bad weather, the passage of the beginning of the route was difficult due to:

• fresh snow on the rocks;
• flow ice. The wall is lit by the sun from 6:00 to 12:00 and by the end of this time it is practically clear of fresh snow. For insurance and creation of belays, 8 piton hooks hammered in by previously passing groups were used. The group did not hammer in their own pitons, and they consider bending the lugs of the pitons to be impractical. The following groups will have to hammer them in approximately the same places, which will slightly complicate their passage, but will lead to cluttering of the route.

Traverse

of the Amanauz and Sofrudju massif with ascent to Dvuzubka via the East wall 6A Team of the Moscow City Council of the DSO "Spartak" Coach and team leader - Master of Sports of the USSR Kavunenko V.D. Moscow 1964

Brief geographical and sporting characteristics of Dvuzubka peak

Dvuzubka peak is located in the mountainous part of the Karachay-Cherkess Autonomous Region of Stavropol Krai. To the east of the Sofrudju snow dome, a sharp decline begins towards the Amanauz Pass saddle, then the ridge rises by more than 250 m, forming a huge three-peak massif:

• Main Amanauz

ASCENT ROUTES TO:

• AMANAUZ UZLOVOY PEAK via W. RIDGE, Cat. 4A diff.
• AMANAUZ (Uzlovoy - Glavny) PEAKS, TRAVERSE, Cat. 4A diff.

Route Description

From the "conical moraine" of the Amanauz glacier, you need to approach the first step of the glacier along its central part. The first step is bypassed under the slopes of the Juguтурлючат massif. After reaching the plateau of the first step, to approach the wall, you need to pass through the icefall. The landmark for the direction of movement is the rocky ridge that limits the icefall along the eastern slope of Uzlovaya Amanauz. The icefall should be traversed along its central part (R1) to the level of the beginning of the rocky ridge, then approach the rocks and along the boundary of ice and rocks, exit to the ice falls under the wall of Uzlovaya Amanauz. The approach to the beginning of the route is first along the rocky ridge, then in the central part of the icefall, transition to the wall. A bivouac under the wall can be arranged on one of the terraces of the icefall. The landmark for the beginning of the route is the rusty rocks in the lower part of the wall, cut by a deep groove. There are many stones on the ice in this part, brought down by winter snow from the terrace behind the wall's bend. In the summer, the approach to the wall is practically safe. To exit to the wall, you need to overcome the bergschrund. At the end of July, the bergschrund is greatly torn (R2). Through the "plug," approach the rocks and through the ice cornice back to the rocks.

Fig. 19

1. Ascent to the summit of Belalakaya (3851 m) via the southern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 19)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the streamlet descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Across the streamlet onto the snowfield and 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrudzhinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!), straight up the steep section to the trail and along it to the Medvezh'ya (Bear's) clearing. From the Medvezh'ya clearing first across alpine meadows (trail), further across snow and 300–350 m east of Belalakaya slopes — exit to the Sofrudzhinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain: 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams) up — right across the glacier and left of the rocky outcrop (beware rockfalls from Belalakaya slopes!) exit to the Belalakay pass. From the pass across easy rocks of the ridge up and further across two gendarmes (piton belay!) to the third one. Ascent along the ridge of the third gendarme to the steep part, then detour left along the ledge to a narrow couloir, up the couloir to a notch and through it around the gendarme exit to the ridge (belay!). From the ridge right — down 5–7 m, exit to quartz rocks and across them ascent to the ridge. Along the ridge up to the scree and across it to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit 6–7 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the bivouac takes 4–5 hours. Ascent variation:

• Bypass the rocky outcrop
• Ascent right across the snowy slope to the couloir
• Ascent up the couloir 70–80 m

Fig. 20

2. Traverse of Белала-кай from the North — Category 3B difficulty (Fig. 20)

From Медвежья поляна upwards — to the right towards the rocky ridge, then along the grassy slopes and through the stream along the grassy couloir to the bivouac site. From Домбайская поляна — 4 hours. From the bivouac:

• to the right — upwards through the scree to the snowfield (in teams) and 100–120 m below the northern edge to a narrow shelf ( крюк! );
• then traverse to the left — upwards for 30–35 m (2–3 крюк! );
• then to the right — upwards along the steep rocks to the second wall;

Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Belalakaya Main 3861 m.

via the Eastern ridge through the chimney. 4B cat. diff. (variant) Presumably IV B cat. diff. Semenov M. A. – CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports) team leader Bogdanova M. V. – 2nd sports category experience Alpclub – Mountain Madness

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.

Participants of the ascent

Route to the summit of Belalakaya via the Eastern ridge, cat. 4–5

Route to the summit of Belalakaya via the Eastern ridge, cat. 4Б

Mt. Belalakaya, 3861 m. 120 m, 20°, 1. 40 m, 70°, +4. 20 m, 30°, –2. 80 m, 60°, 3. 80 m, 60°, –4.

Climbing Report on Mt. Belalakaia (3851 m), located in the area of the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass, via the Western Counterfort, Category 4B (tentative)

I. The route was first ascended in 1972 by a group from the "Alibek" tourist camp, consisting of:

1. Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
2. Shumikhin V.S. — Master of Sports of the USSR On July 12-13, 1974, a group from the "Alibek" tourist camp made the ascent, consisting of:
3. Bondarev V.M. — Category I sportsman — team leader
4. Kokodii N.G. — Category I sportsman
5. Mishustin A.G. — Category I sportsman II. Brief geographical description of the ascent area Mt. Belalakaia (3851 m) is located in the Western Caucasus, on a spur of the Main Caucasian Range branching north from the peak Zadnaya Belalakaia. The black rocky pyramid of Belalakaia is encircled by several white quartz bands.

Fig. 18

1. Ascent to the summit of Zadnaya Belalakaya (3740 m) — category 2A difficulty (fig. 18, A)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the stream, descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrujinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!) and up along it to a large overhanging rock. Further left-up along the steep section of the couloir to the trail and along it to the Medvezhья (Bear) clearing. From the Medvezhья clearing, first through alpine meadows (trail), then through snow and 300–350 m along the eastern slopes of Belalakaya to the Sofrujinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) along the Sofrujinsky glacier to the north-eastern ridge of Zadnaya Belalakaya. Exit to the ridge from the right in the lower part (bergschrund, protection!) and further to the right — up to the ridge saddle. From the saddle directly along the destroyed and loose rocks of the ridge to a ledge and along it to a couloir. Up the couloir to two rock outcrops left of the ridge inflection and exit to the ridge. Along the right side of the ridge up to the second outcrop of the crest. Behind it — to a wide couloir, then up to the ridge inflection and along the right side of the crest — exit to the summit.

• From the bivouac: 3–4 hours
• The entire route is rockfall hazardous!