Ascent Passport

Climb category — technical. Region of ascent — Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach plateau. Route of ascent — Mt. Tsyndyshko Malaya (3010 m) via the Northwest buttress, category 2A difficulty. Characteristics of ascent — route is combined.

• total elevation gain of the route — 350–400 m
• average steepness of the route — 30–35°
• number of climbing hours (from camp to camp) — 10–12 hours. Team name — group of climbers from Krasnodar city committee on physical culture and sports. Team composition —
• Ponimatko Oleg Ivanovich — team leader, 1st sports category, alpinism instructor
• Semenov Mikhail Ivanovich — 1st sports category

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category—
2. Climbing region— Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach Lake.
3. Climbing route — Tsynдышхо Northern via the north-eastern ridge
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1,252 m average slope of ascent — 40° length of difficult sections —
5. Pitons driven:
   • rock —

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshko North via the North wall, May 5-7, 1972, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society

Group Composition

1. AKHTYRSKY O.A. — CMS — team leader 2. GERASYUK A.K. — CMS — participant 3. BEZRUKAVNIKOV A.I. — 1st sports category — « — 4. SOVENKOV V.S. — 2nd sports category — « —

Approach to the Initial Bivouac

From Adler to Lake Ritsa by bus. Then to Avadhara settlement, 4-5 hours on foot or 30 minutes by car (depending on road conditions). Overnight stay.

Ascent Passport

Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp at Kardyvach Lake, ascend along the Mzymta River to the steep ascent to the plateau under Smidovikha Peak (1 hour). Up to the right onto the plateau and further to the 9th pass (1.5 hours). From here, descend and then, traversing the slopes of the Gl. Tsyndyshho massif, exit under the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West. The base of the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West is represented by three steep, converging buttresses. The route follows the leftmost one, as the most logical and safe.

Brief Explanation for the Table

The route begins up a steep snow-ice couloir between the left and central buttresses of the Eastern ridge (R0–R1). Then, up to the left across steep, snow-covered rock slabs — exit onto the left buttress of the Eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West (R1–R2). The route then logically follows the edge of the buttress (R2–R3, R3–R4). Climbing is quite difficult in places. The rocks are steep and highly smoothed in places. The R4–R5 section is a gentle, narrow rock ridge with two small but steep gendarmes, which are climbed head-on. At the start of this section, the first control cairn is built. At the end of the ridge, there is a short wall ending in a ledge where a tent can be set up (R5–R6). From here, straight up a sheer wall (R6–R7). There are very few holds, and climbing is difficult. At the end of the section, the second control cairn is built. The large black gendarme is climbed straight up (R7–R8), with free climbing. Sections R8–R9, R9–R10 are climbed with alternate belays through an ice axe. On section R9–R10, there are many large snow cornices. At the end of R9–R10, there is a wide snow corrie. From the snow corrie, straight up snow-covered rocks — exit onto the main ridge of V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R10–R11). Here, the route converges with route 2B cat. sl. on V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R11–R12). The ascent took 12 hours.

1: CATEGORY OF ASCENT: 2. REGION OF ASCENT 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT AND ASCENT ROUTE 4 4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE AVERAGE STEEPNESS LENGTH OF SEC. 6. NUMBER OF PITO­NS FOR BELAY (ROCK) 7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS 8. FULL NAME OF LEADER AND PARTICIPANTS: 9. TEAM COACH

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
3. Ascent route: traverse of Tsyndyshko: Northern 3102 m, 2nd Northern 3107 m, Main 3210 m, South-Western 3150 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A
5. Pitons driven: rock: 32 (including chocks) ice: 4 bolt: –

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Chaget-chat (2964 m)

Rostov Region Climbing and Rock Climbing Federation

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Chaget-chat 2963.8 m via the south-eastern ridge presumably category 1B, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Arkhyz area, Sofiyskoe valley, section 2.1 of the mountain route classifier.
2. Summit: Chaget-chat (2963.8 m), via the south-eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain: 160 m