Ascent Passport

Geographic Information and Sporting Characteristics of the Region

The Kardyvach Lake region is located at the junction of the Main Caucasian and Gagra Ranges.

All peaks of sporting interest are part of the Main Caucasian Range. At the junction of the named ranges, the peak Kardyvach-Uzlовая (3180 m) rises; to its east lies Mt. Kardyvach Main, and to its north — the Tsyndyshkho massif, the highest point of the region being Peak Smidovich (3359 m) and Mt. Lapb, located in a spur of the Main Caucasian Range extending south to the Gagra Range. The height of most peaks in the region exceeds 3000 m above sea level.

Under the southern slopes of Mt. Lapb lies Kardyvach Lake; further up the gorge — Kardyvach-Upper Lake. In the cirque between the Tsyndyshkho massif and Mt. Kardyvach-Uzlовая is Lake Udivlennoe; between the Tsyndyshkho massif and Peak Smidovich — Lake Utaennoe.

The region is characterized by relatively short approaches to the routes and a large elevation gain on the routes themselves. Exploration of the region began in 1963; during this time, the following routes have been climbed and classified: Mt. Lapb:

• 1B category — via the col from the saddle;
• 2B category — via the couloir through the sub-peak;
• 5B category — via the north face (winter ascent).

Peak Smidovich:

• 3A category — along the ridge from Smidovich Pass;
• 4A category — via the NW buttress from the Lake Vorovskogo cirque.

Tsyndyshkho massif:

• 1B category — to Tsyndyshkho North;
• 2A category — to Tsyndyshkho Malaia via the NW buttress;
• 3B category — to Tsyndyshkho 2nd North via the N edge;
• 3B category — to Tsyndyshkho Main via the W buttress;
• 4B category — to Tsyndyshkho North via the N wall (winter ascent).

Mt. Kardyvach Main: 4A category — from the 13-ti Pass; along the snowy rocks of the ridge, 3 ropes to the summit from the pass — 3.5–4.5 hours (see photo 3)

Descent

Along the snowy ridge, then along the rocky and snowy ledges on the left side of the ridge (in the direction of travel) and down a 40-meter 45° snowy slope to the saddle between Mt. Tsyndyshkho Main and Tsyndyshkho Southwest. Then down the left (in the direction of travel) side of the couloir between the peaks, 4–5 rappels on firm snow ( местами лёд ) to the "ram's foreheads" at the lower part of the couloir. On the right side of the couloir, 2 rappels and down the avalanche debris to the Tsyndyshkho plateau (from the summit 3–4 hours). From the Tsyndyshkho plateau to the base camp — 1.5 hours.

General Conclusion on the Route

During the ascent to Mt. Tsyndyshkho Southwest from Tsyndyshkho Pass, the group kept records and photographed sections of the route. The climbed route is an interesting combined route. The route requires the application of a full range of tactical and technical skills necessary for groups of I–IV training levels. It apparently does not lose its technical complexity throughout the year. The route is objectively safe and logical. When assessing the category of complexity, the group compared it with such well-known classified routes as:

• Maly Damбай — 2B category
• Cheget-Kara — 2B category
• Lapb East — 2B category
• Volnaya Ispaniya — 3A category
• Ullu-Kara — 3A category
• Peak Germogenova — 3A category
• Peak Smidovich — 3A category

The group believes that in terms of complexity and length, the route corresponds to a 2B category route.

The route can be recommended for training and educational ascents for mountaineering groups of I and IV levels.

Mt. Kardyvach-Uzlовая:

• 2A category — from Kutakheku Pass;
• 2B category — via the SE ridge.

All routes are combined. In mountaineering terms, the region is promising, with wall routes of varying complexity and unclimbed traverses.

Approach to the Base Camp

From Adler to Lake Ritsa — by bus; then to the village of Avadkhara along a snowy road, 4–5 hours on foot. From the (abandoned) village, an early morning departure and ascent up the southeastern slopes of the Gagra Range to Kutakheku Pass. The ascent to the pass takes 3–4 hours. From the pass, the lake is visible. Descent to it along the left (in the direction of travel) slopes of the wide snowy cirque under the pass. At Kardyvach Lake — organization of the base camp and overnight stay.

Tactical Plan for the Ascent and Route Reconnaissance

The route to Mt. Tsyndyshkho Southwest from Tsyndyshkho Pass was repeatedly observed by group members during reconnaissance trips to the region and sporting ascents to Mt. Kardyvach Main, Tsyndyshkho, and Kardyvach-Uzlовая. The route was deemed logical and safe, presenting sporting interest for training groups. The descent path was planned along the ascent route.

Based on preliminary assessment, the route time was estimated at one day: base camp — summit — base camp.

Communication with the base camp was maintained via a "Vitalka" radio station, with constant observation of the first-ascent group through a 40x telescope.

Route Description

From the base camp at Kardyvach Lake, up the left (orographic) bank of the Upper Mzymta River — 40–50 minutes. Then right up a gentle snowy slope, leaving the rocky cliffs on the plateau under Tsyndyshkho Pass to the right, and up a 35° snowy slope to the pass (2.5–3 hours from the base camp). From the pass, left up snow and simple snowy rocks, 2.5 ropes to a snowy couloir. Then traverse left across a steep (50°) snowy slope onto a snowy ridge — 1 rope. Up the snowy ridge — 3 ropes to a rocky outcrop on the ridge — "Black pillar", which is bypassed on the right — 1 rope; and up a 20-meter 60° wall to reach the ridge at the "feathers" (see photo 11). Then a 10-meter descent under the first gendarme of the ridge gap, bypassed on the right via a 50° snowy slope; the second gendarme of the gap is bypassed on snow to the left — 2 ropes (from the feathers). Along the ridge, we approach a 65°–70° internal corner, about 60 m high. We climb destroyed rocks of medium difficulty. Along the ledges on the right side of the internal corner, moving to the right side of the ridge and up the edge to a snowy ledge; or up the center of the internal corner, passing through a 3-meter hole to reach the edge; along the edge — to the same snowy ledge, with a slope of 20°, 15 m long, going left from the ridge (see photo 2). Along the snowy ledge, then along a rocky ledge (about 7 m), we move to 30° slabs. Up the slabs, 15 m, to a 3-meter internal corner with rime ice. After passing the corner, we go left up 30° slabs — 2 ropes to a 45° snowy slope leading right up to the ridge — 2 ropes. Along simple and medium-difficulty destroyed rocks on the ridge, we climb 2–3.5 ropes to a gendarme on the ridge, "Black tower". From the top of the gendarme, a 15-meter rappel to the saddle. Further along medium-difficulty snowy rocks