Northwestern Caucasus

Mountain range16,851.32 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the ascent to the summit of **Fisht** via the right part of the Eastern wall, description of the route, characteristics of complexity, and recommendations for climbers.

Report

on the ascent to Mt. Fisht (2867 m) via the right part of the Eastern wall, second ascent, approximately 5B cat. dif. not classified (V. Nedelkin, 80), made by the team of the KubSTU "Shturm" mountaineering section

Ascent Passport

  1. Western Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai, 2.1
  2. Fisht peak (2867 m), right part of the eastern wall (V. Nedelkin, 80)
  3. Proposed category - 5B cat. dif. (second ascent) - not classified
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Route height difference - 940 m Route length - 1800 m Wall section height difference - 650 m
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Fisht North via the southern edge, complexity category 3A-3B, with a description of the route, approach, and characterization of complexity.

Report

on the ascent of Mt. Fisht North (2160 m) via the southern edge, approximately 3A–3B cat. diff., completed by the team of the KubSTU "Shturm" mountaineering club, Krasnodar, Krasnodar, 2016

Ascent Passport

  1. Western Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai, 2.1
  2. Peak Fisht North (2160 m) via the southern edge.
  3. Proposed category – 3A–3B cat. diff. (first or second ascent*).
  4. Route type: rock climbing
  5. Route height difference – 330 m
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Description of the first ascent via the center of the Western face of the Northern shoulder of the [Fisht](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fisht) peak (Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai) category 5B route.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent area: Caucasus, Krasnodar region up to Marukh pass, 2.1
  2. Name of the peak: P. 2160 (Fisht massif). Route name: Via the Center of the Western wall of the North shoulder of Fisht peak
  3. Proposed: 5B cat. diff., first ascent
  4. Route type: Rock
  5. Height difference of the route: 590 m (by altimeter) Route length: 700 m Length of sections: 5 cat. diff. – 275 m; 6 cat. diff. – 35 m. Average steepness:
    • main section of the route: 84°
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Description of a new rock-and-technical 6B grade route along the North-West edge of the West wall of the North summit of Mt. Fisht in the Caucasus.

  1. Climbing area: Caucasus, Krasnodar region to Marukh pass, 2.1.
  2. Summit name: p. 2160 m (Fisht massif). Route name: Via the North-West edge of the Western wall of the Northern shoulder of Fisht peak, dedicated to the memory of rescuer S.N. Plyushchenko.
  3. Category: 6A cat. diff., first ascent.
  4. Route type: Technical rock climbing.
  5. Route height difference: Route length: 640 m (GPS) Section length: 590 m. V cat. diff. – 115 m; VI cat. diff. – 100 m; VI+ cat. diff. – 205 m. Average slope:
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Report on the winter ascent of a team from the MAI and CSKA alpine clubs to the summit of **Fisht** via the center of the West wall, complexity category 6A.

Report on the ascent of Mt. Fisht (C) via the center of the Western wall by the team from MAI and CSKA alpinist clubs named after Demchenko

Ascent Passport

  1. Caucasus, Krasnodar region, classified in the 2008 table 2.1
  2. Fisht 2160, 6A category, winter, via the center of the 3 wall through the "bastion", Spiridonov A., 2009 (classified, Protocol No. 2 dated 02.10.2009)
  3. Route type: rock climbing
  4. Route elevation gain: 472.6 m Route length: 565 m Length of sections:
    • VI category — 285 m
    • V category — 140 m
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Report on the second ascent via the west wall of **Fisht** peak (2581 m) [rated as] category 4B climb.

Krasnodar Krai Alpinism Federation

Report

on the ascent to Fisht North-West (2581 m) via the western wall (V. Shipilov, 2009), second ascent, approximately 4B cat. diff., made by the "Shturm" alpinism section team Krasnodar, 2017

Ascent Passport

  1. Western Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai, 2.1
  2. Fisht peak (NW) (2581 m). Route via the western wall (V. Shipilov, 2009)
  3. Proposed — 4B cat. diff., second ascent
  4. Route type: rock
  5. Route height difference — 500 m
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Climbing report on the ascent of a team of climbers to the summit of **Fisht** via the right side of the western wall, category 4B route.

MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION OF KRASNODAR TERRITORY

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO FISHT PEAK (NORTH-WEST) VIA THE RIGHT PART OF THE WESTERN WALL ROUTE OF APPROXIMATE 4B DIFFICULTY CATEGORY (SECOND ASCENT) BY THE TEAM FROM ALPINISM CLUB "SHTURM", KRASNODAR ON MAY 27, 2018 2018

I. ASCENT PASSPORT

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderAnatoly S. Barabash, 2nd sports rank
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsMikhail N. Ivashchenko, CMS
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshkho 2nd Northern via the North Edge in 1974, description of the route and its passage by a group of climbers.

Ascent to Tsyndyshko 2nd North peak via the North edge

Group composition

  1. Gorshenev K.A. — 1st sports category — leader, participant
  2. Gorbachevsky A.D. — 1st sports category, instructor (No. 2584)
  3. Volkovsky V.Z. — 2nd sports category, participant
  4. Semenov M.I. — 2nd sports category, participant.

Day one (approach to the route)

April 28, 1974 Departure from the base camp at Kardyvach lake at 15:00, upwards along the right bank (in the direction of travel) of the Upper Mzymta river to a group of large boulders beneath the walls of Layub Eastern peak. Then, upwards to the right across a wide snowy slope with rocky outcrops, leading to a saddle beneath Northern Tsyndyshko peak. The journey from the base camp takes 3–3.5 hours. Overnight stay on the saddle. From here, the beginning of the route is visible. This part of the path was prepared: steps were trodden to the ridge connecting to Northern Tsyndyshko peak.

Day two

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Description of the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshko via the Western counterfort of the Krasnodar Krai Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society on April 29-30, 1974, with a detailed analysis of the route.

REPORT on the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshho Main via the Western counterfort in the period from April 29 to 30, 1974, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society (Route complexity category — 3B)

Description of the ascent to Mt. Tsyndyshho Main (3210 m) via the Western counterfort

Group composition:

  1. Khoruzhik O.V. — 1st sports category — leader
  2. Shklyaev E.V. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
  3. Gerasyuk A.K. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
  4. Kovalevsky V.A. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
  5. Akhtyrsky O.A. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant

First day — April 29, 1974

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First ascent description of Tsynyshko Malaya peak via the North-Western counterfort, made in 1976 by a team from Krasnodar Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Tsyndyshko Malaya via the northwestern counterfort in the period from April 29 to 30, 1976, by a group assembled by the Krasnodar City Committee for Physical Culture and Sports.

Route Description

From the base camp at Lake Kardyvach, head up the Upper Mzymta River to the start of the ascent up steep snowy slopes leading to the cirque between Tsyndyshko Yuzhnaya peak and Tsyndyshko Malaya peak. Staying in the central part of the cirque (avalanches!), move in the direction of Tsyndyshko Pass until the second snow couloir on the right, which leads to a clearly defined saddle on the counterfort of Tsyndyshko Malaya peak. The time taken to reach the couloir from the camp is 2.5–3 hours. Ascent up the couloir (2.5–3 ropes) with a steepness of 30 to 60° in the upper part, then up a steep snowy ridge to beneath a 4-meter rock wall (moderate climbing, 1 piton). Then, exit via sloping snowy slabs and a snowy ridge to beneath the first "gendarme". It is climbed directly "head-on" (moderate climbing). From the "gendarme", a sport rappel (1 rope) down to a snowy saddle with a separate rocky "finger". From the saddle, follow the ridge, then up a 3-meter rock wall (moderate climbing, 1 piton) and via an internal corner on its right-hand side, exit onto a snowy "knife-edge" (1 rope). A steep rocky ascent on the ridge (second "gendarme") is bypassed on the left via a steep, sloping snowy ledge (1 rope, 2 pitons). Then, ascend the rocky ridge to a platform beneath the sub-summit. The sub-summit is reached with alternate belays on the right-hand side of the ridge (cornice 1). From the sub-summit, descend to a broad depression in the ridge and, via simple, broken rocks (2 ropes), ascend to the summit. The time taken to complete the route from exiting beneath the couloir is 5–6 hours. The descent via the ascent route takes 2–3 hours, depending on the condition of the route.

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