Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp at Kardyvach Lake, ascend along the Mzymta River to the steep ascent to the plateau under Smidovikha Peak (1 hour). Up to the right onto the plateau and further to the 9th pass (1.5 hours). From here, descend and then, traversing the slopes of the Gl. Tsyndyshho massif, exit under the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West. The base of the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West is represented by three steep, converging buttresses. The route follows the leftmost one, as the most logical and safe.

Brief Explanation for the Table

The route begins up a steep snow-ice couloir between the left and central buttresses of the Eastern ridge (R0–R1). Then, up to the left across steep, snow-covered rock slabs — exit onto the left buttress of the Eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West (R1–R2). The route then logically follows the edge of the buttress (R2–R3, R3–R4). Climbing is quite difficult in places. The rocks are steep and highly smoothed in places. The R4–R5 section is a gentle, narrow rock ridge with two small but steep gendarmes, which are climbed head-on. At the start of this section, the first control cairn is built. At the end of the ridge, there is a short wall ending in a ledge where a tent can be set up (R5–R6). From here, straight up a sheer wall (R6–R7). There are very few holds, and climbing is difficult. At the end of the section, the second control cairn is built. The large black gendarme is climbed straight up (R7–R8), with free climbing. Sections R8–R9, R9–R10 are climbed with alternate belays through an ice axe. On section R9–R10, there are many large snow cornices. At the end of R9–R10, there is a wide snow corrie. From the snow corrie, straight up snow-covered rocks — exit onto the main ridge of V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R10–R11). Here, the route converges with route 2B cat. sl. on V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R11–R12).

The ascent took 12 hours.

Table

Section R4–R5