Ascent Log

1. Climbing category—
2. Climbing region— Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach Lake.
3. Climbing route — Tsynдышхо Northern via the north-eastern ridge
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1,252 m average slope of ascent — 40° length of difficult sections —
5. Pitons driven:
   • rock —
   • ice —
   • expansion bolts —
6. Total travel hours — 7 hours.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics —
8. Team name — Krasnodar Krai Council SDDO "Burevestnik" team
9. Surname, first name, and patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their sports qualification— Kovalenko Yuri Ivanovich — CMS Mazurov Oleg Nikolayevich — 1st sports category Saltykov Valery Mikhailovich — CMS Sorokin Alexander Georgievich — CMS
10. Team coach — Shklyaev Evgeny Vladimirovich — CMS.
11. Date of departure and return — April 29–29, 1974.

Geographical Reference

Sports Characteristics of the Region

The Kardyvach Lake area is located at the junction of the Main Caucasian and Gagra Ranges.

All peaks of sporting interest are part of the Main Caucasian Range. At the junction of the named ranges stands the Kardyvach-Uzlовая peak, to the south of which lies Kardyvach-Glavnaya. To the north lie five peaks of the Tsynдышхо massif, Smidovich Peak, and the Laюб peak, which is located in a spur of the Main Range extending south towards the Gagra Range.

The height of the peaks exceeds 3,000 m; the highest peak in the area is Smidovich Peak (3,359 m).

At the foot of the Laюб peak lies Kardyvach Lake, the most convenient location for a base camp.

The area is characterized by short approaches and significant elevation gains on the routes.

Some routes are classified:

• Laюб — 1B, 2B, and 5B (winter)
• Smidovich Peak — 3A, 4A
• Kardyvach-Uzlовая — 2A
• Kardyvach-Glavnaya — 4A
• Tsynдышхо — 4B (winter)

All routes are mixed. The area has untraversed traverses and wall routes of varying difficulty.

Approach to the Initial Campsite

From Adler to Ritsa Lake by bus. Then to Avdhara settlement — 4–5 hours walking or 30 minutes by car (depending on road conditions). Overnight stay.

Depart from Avdhara settlement at 4:00–5:00 am to reach the south-eastern slopes of Kuta-tehu False Pass before sunrise — 1.5–2 hours walking.

Then:

• Ascend along a distinct ridge in the direction of travel.
• Snow slopes with a gradient of 25–30°.
• After reaching the ridge, head right towards Kuta-tehu Pass.

Ascent to the pass — 3–4 hours (possible campsite).

Then descend from the pass along a snowy slope with a gradient of 45°. Two ropes. Then the slope eases to 20–25°. Descend towards the forest. Upon entering it, turn left and traverse the slope. Follow the stream leading to Kardyvach Lake. A convenient and safe campsite.

Route Description

From the campsite at Kardyvach Lake, follow the left (orographically) bank of the "Bivachny" stream towards the Tsynдышхо massif.

Gradually gain height, exiting onto a snowy plateau south-west of Chernorechensky Pass. From the base camp — 2.5–3 hours.

From the plateau, exit onto the pre-summit ridge to the right of the gendarmes along a snowy slope with a gradient of 45–55° and a length of 250–300 m (1.5–2 hours). Belay via ice axe.

Then follow the ridge (with cornices on the left) to a slope with snow-covered rocks; belay via ice axe and simultaneous. The ridge is 80–100 m long, with a gradient of 5–10°.

Then along the slope for 100–150 m (gradient 30–35°) to easy, heavily broken rocks. The rock section is climbed by free climbing (20–25 m). Belay via rock features.

Then simultaneously along snow-covered rocks (50–60 m) to the summit.

Descent follows the ascent route.